85lebaront2

Interesting Gary, we had a Wolverine 11.5' slide in I hauled with my 1977 F150, the original 300 six would handle it, but it wasn't fast getting up to speed and at 60 mph was running almost no manifold vacuum. That was why it got a 390 Camper Special engine, even dug around and found both a factory Duraspark distributor and used it with my DS-II module and the correct Holley 4160 series with the special power circuit setup. I designed a dual system for it and had a local muffler shop build it for me using a pair of real Corvair Turbo Mufflers. With a C6 and 3.25 rear it would get 16-17 mpg highway without the camper. With the camper and towing our 1981 Omni Mizer it got 10-12 mpg. I had used a neighbor's 1968 GMC camper model as a pattern for a slide out rear bumper which was quite hefty slide pieces were some healthy galvanized steel pipe a 1' long section welded on the bottom of the rear of the frame and a longer section that would slide into the frame part. A pair of 1/2" diameter pins and two 1/2-13 Allen head bolts to take up the slack secured it in or out and it was sturdy enough out to (a) tow the 1987 Horizon that replaced the Omni when our daughter was rear ended in it and (b) support the camper steps without flexing.

Damn, that would have been a nice upgrade on Darth!

Not to mention really how deep beyond this it goes lol. That's why Gary was having me do frame measurements on Darth and pictures of the front crossmember. Interesting note, prior to 1987 you could not get an F350 DRW in a 4WD from Ford, there were some aftermarket versions that were built as a cab and chassis 4WD using the Dana axle rather than the 1985-86 Sterling and they probably used the earlier DRW bed to clear the inner duals. Sometime maybe one of you who has access to that information can find the difference in track width. Darth has the Sterling 10.25" rear and the inner duals track directly behind the front wheels, with the Dana, the center of the duals tracked directly behind the front wheels. This is why for years a DRW truck would not take a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood, gypsum board or anything else flat on the bed floor, it would sit up on one or the other inner fenders. Darth is 50" between the inner fenders, just like an SRW bed.

When we bought our 1990 Town Car, I told a friend that in addition to a trunk that would "sleep" 3, the opera windows could be ordered to retract back into the quarter area for drive by shootings.

According to the diagram it is 2 1/2" to the muffler then 2 1/4" tailpipe. For the later (through 1987) it shows dual 2 1/2" pipes to the muffler then a 2 1/2" tailpipe from it. Darth still has the original muffler and tailpipe that was put on in the Oakville Ontario Canada truck plant 34 years ago and the muffler and tailpipe are one assembly. Where it gets interesting is the 1988-92 system it has the dual headpipes into the catalyst, then a 2 1/2" connection to the muffler and dual 2" tailpipes. By 1996 the converter and intermediate pipe were both 3", but still had the dual 2" tailpipes.

Bad thing is, I think I still have the original head pipes off Darth the connection to the muffler or extension was cut off years ago, the EFI/E4OD head pipe assembly is way longer, runs back behind the transmission crossmember. Best source I have found to at least get an idea is Walker's on-line catalog. Even if you don't buy their parts it gives you a good picture of the system.

Gary, I just went through new plugs, cap, rotor and wires on Darth. I have 4 small wire or harness clips that push into the holes on the valve covers. Plug wires 1,4,5 and 8 are routed through these, I have two nice latching wire holders (probably GM) that I used further up the wire groups to hold the center wires to the end ones so they don't flop all over. Left side is arranged 5,7,6,8 through the 4 wire holder and #8 goes inboard of the coil/solenoid valve mount brace to the manifold bolt/stud.

Unfortunately I can't ask my electrical engineer as he departed May 22nd 2009. He would definitely have known how best to handle it. I could possible pose the question to my former manager who was a USAF Instrumentation tech or possibly one of my former Lab Rat co-workers who dealt with strain gauging and shielding the signal leads. As for my truck, I replaced the wiper blades today as they were pretty bad.

Jim, the 1983 and early 1984 460s had a single pipe from the Y to the muffler, it was a mid 1984 change to the dual pipes. The other item, the basic system is for a 133" wheelbase, 155" uses a 22" extension section and 168" a 35" extension section.

Sounds like a plan sir! However, to quote a late friend, "too logical, won't work".

If you look at the picture I posted of the left side it should answer some of the questions. Ford used a few different mounts for the E-core TFI coil and the 460 coil is on a bracket that is attached to the larger over the valve cover one with two 1/4-20 studs and nuts. I am pretty sure you can use that and and make a very pretty (and functional) mount for it. You don't need the two or three solenoid valves that sit there normally so it could be done easily. Jim, unlike the DS-II coil, the TFI uses no ballast resistor, just a straight 12V feed (like an HEI, just not as big a current hog).

Gary, first item, the heat shield goes in further than you have it, it shields the plug wire ends from the exhaust port heat. Second, the tabs are bendable, I would pull at least the close in bolt on the front of # 6 exhaust port and see if the tab can be bent to go over that hole, then drill a new hole in the tab. Maybe the same thing on the tab to the rear bolt on # 7 exhaust port. This begs the question, how do you plan on mounting the coil bracket? It goes from the rear vertical stud/bolt at the middle of the intake manifold to the outside of the short stud/bolt on the front side of # 8 exhaust port.

Go back up and look at my post, I edited it and added pictures (so it did happen) of the heat shields and where they attach.

Welcome to the forums. I like your tow mirrors, my 1977 had them and Darth has them apparently either factory installed of done by the selling dealer in 1986. Darth was a carburated 460/C6 with 3.55 gears and was originally a horse trailer hauler. You will find the 460 will pretty well pull anything you want it to. On your other ride, I had a 1987 Horizon with the standard 2.2L and 5 speed, It ended up going to my daughter and her live in boyfriend parked it in the weeds behind the house after it failed inspection due to the muffler inlet pipe being rusted through on top of the bend. When he finally needed to get it fixed, the floors had rusted through in a few places. My son (also a Matt) had a 1986 Turismo 2.2 that we found had the same HO engine as the first batch of Omni GLHs had, the 110 hp engine.

The tabs are to go over the outer stud portion of the manifold bolts. They don't need a lot to hold them in place as they sit down in between the exhaust ports on all but #1 and #8. Left side: Right side: The tabs go over the "stud" on the fasteners and since these are more substantial than the early ones I didn't use the stainless flat washers I used on the current engine.

I never received anything other than the two I sent to all the admins. I went to (a) see how much of the forum I could access and (b) see if I could post anywhere, I almost put something in the BB thread, but figured the lounge would be a good test.

Larry, when you get some time, see if there is a Ford PN tag or possibly a rebuilder's tag on the carburetor. After that, if you would kindly describe any problems you are having with it. One item to examine carefully would be the float bowl to throttle body joint as it is prone to getting loose and causing all sort of interesting problems.

I got it after I had clicked on the link, then decided for the purpose of this test to try to post somewhere in the forums. Since it let me it tells me that there is not a block on posting anywhere in the forums once the membership has been approved.

I will bet that the original setup had one of the double ended studs and the bracket went over the outer piece with a nut on it.

Ha! Changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor after I suddenly realized the last time any of that was done was when I converted to EFI in 2011.

The only thing I use Gr 2 for is to make guide pins for installing 460 intake manifolds if the original studs are missing or damaged.

Jim, I probably have what you need, I have an assortment of them (including the hex head Chrysler ones).

Look at the exhaust manifolds, I believe they are a bit thicker than the header flanges. I can measure tomorrow if you don't have the old ones from Huck.

I have seen a reinforcement used on a flex plate before, and broken the center out of a few GM 5.7L Diesel flex plates (and one crank). Item of interest, friend of ours (mine and Matt's) had an Explorer that kept breaking the aftermarket flex plates till the "mechanic" working on it refused to touch it again. I bought a new one from Ford along with the reinforcement plate. Got my friend in a transmission shop to order the aftermarket one. The reinforcement was spot welded to the plate creating hard spots which then cracked.

Gary, turn the bracket the other way, slot should be at the pump I believe you might have to swap the stud over to the other hole if there is one (I thought we went through this once).