85lebaront2

I wish it did have "'Cause if I had a set of wings, man I know she could fly". (Who knows where that came from?) Beach Boys, Little Deuce Coupe.

That's how I got started, working on Lawn Mowers. First real job was at a bicycle/lawn and garden shop in Norfolk, Reid's Cycle Company. The owner, E. King Reid was something, there had been a mower company in Norfolk called Gemco for General Mower Company. when then went bankrupt in the late 50s, Mr Reid bought all their remaining stock. Every so often I got to go to the House behind the shop and help him pull Gemco parts. They became the dealer for the Allis-Chalmers B10 garden tractors and used one with a fork lift attachment and a 46 or 48" deck. They would run it into the company's Corvair Rampside to go fetch a broken estate mower (reel mowers with several units towed by the granddaddy of a Zero-Turn) and leave the Allis-Chalmers for the grounds keeper to use. I first tried to buy one of the Ford's from a friend's business, he was an old customer of mine form Preston. owning a 1967 Shelby GT-500, at the time I think it was $3000 for the tractor and another $15-$1800 for a 42 or 48" deck. The one I have was a fugitive from some old hag named Isabel and the deck was toast, found a deck on eBay and rebuilt it. Engine was a Kohler MV16, I found the difference to the MV18 was the heads (higher compression). I also have a snowblower for it. Here is the Ford, note the DOA JD in the background. This was cutting the girls Field Hockey area at a local high school. Everytime I have to try to work on a John Deere, I find they are super protective of their dealers, no service information and all PNs are JD numbers with no cross over. John Deere's smaller stuff seems to be made by either MTD or Electrolux, but there are no cross references and in my case the nearest JD dealer is in Pocomoke City MD, an hour North. I can't get any parts for them from our local shop, Shore Saw and Mower, As a result I tell people I won't work on them.

Jim, I learned a long time ago, airlines have hubs, and will route you through their hub no matter how assinine it looks on paper. Only places it seems you can get nice straight through flights are from major centers (like NYC) or areas with a high military presence. I could get a flight from Norfolk (ORF) to Chicago/O'hare and then to San Diego, coming back about the same route.

I now have an update on the FedEx debacle, the package that was shipped on 5/12 finally showed up yesterday and it was an eye opener, first was the label, it had obviously been cut off the original package and been stuck on a new box, the inside should have been a blue and White Coloplast box with a red stripe next to the description, no, the products were just dumped inside. Outside on one side was a pair of stickers, apparently with notes from my phone calls. Now, of course, it is pretty well academic as the initial need for this stuff is gone and we did get the same stuff in a replacement shipment Sunday afternoon.

I have several yard and garden tractors. I was told a number of years ago that the difference between a yard tractor and a garden tractor, is, the garden tractor can handle ground engaging implements. The interesting thing, all of mine are two cylinder engines, except the Sears Custom 10XL for 16 to around 24 hp, the proper garden tractor is a 1983 Craftsman GTV-16, 16 hp Briggs driving through an AYP 3 speed transaxle with a variable speed input system. Custom 10XL has a Tecumseh HH100 (heavy hunk of cast iron). Supposedly my Ford YT16H is not designed for ground engaging implements, I think because the Eaton 850 hydrostatic transaxle blocks any place to mount a 3 point or sleeve hitch. I have towed cars with it so it has the power to handle it. All of mine I can get parts and service manuals for, on the parts for the Ford and New Holland it was simply a matter of breaking the code, PNs are xxxDxxxx and if I look for the manufacturer's numbers (Lawn Boy for the Ford and Toro for the New Holland) the D gets replaced by a -. On the ones from Sears, they are all source code 917, which is currently Electrolux Home Products the present owner of American Yard Products. They had a reputation for extremely rugged equipment, many garden tractor pullers like their 3 speed with a hi-lo transaxle.

The ones that snap down in the holes. I will get some pictures later.

I'll have to get pictures of Darth's routing. I used the holes in the valve covers to hold the 4 end wires (1, 4, 5 & 8) and some 8mm wire separators to keep the groups on each side where they need to be. Right side they are just 1234, left side they are 5768 and #8 is routed in board of the coil bracket brace. BTW, if you think #8 on a 460 is fun try all 8 on a manual transmission 428CJ, or #7 on your Road Toad. There is no reason for spark plugs to be under exhaust manifolds and that includes Y-block Fords.

In 1994 Ford added an RKE system to the trucks, no door keypad but a complete RKE system. It is the same as the Taurus uses and does have a place to connect a keypad. Biggest issue is the wiring changes between RKE and no RKE on the power lock switches. If you look at the 1996 EVTM it covers it, it also adds the "battery saver" feature (leave the doors open too long and the interior lights go out).

That's why the MEL 430s had a thermal bypass valve in the Carter mechanical fuel pump that bled off hot fuel to the tank.

Problem here is Amazon does not do deliveries in this area, and probably never will as we are Virginia's Appendix. No land connection to the rest of Virginia.

Damn, you are into the brand C 454 levels, Darth would get 8-10 with the C6 and Holley 4180, worst I ever got was 7 towing a 30' 5th wheel at 65-70 mph into a pretty stiff headwind. As for the inefficiency of a C6, explain 16-17 mpg with a 390 in a 1977 F150, 3.25 rear, 235/75R-15 radials this was highway running.

C4 also has a vacuum line as the C6 does. The vacuum line runs much the same way, down the transmission and through a clip on the upper right extension housing bolt. Below that is a short elbow in a rubber hose. Since the exhaust passes right by there it can get very hot.

Angelo, I would get ahold of an ATRA manual and possibly parts list. ATRA probably has some drawings and specs on the C6 servo. I never needed to upgrade my C6, the C4 in my 1964 Falcon was another story. For that one I ended up using a front band and servo for a 300 (yes they put them behind those torque monsters). I had started with a Hi-Po 289 setup, and modified the servo cover so the back side of the release area became the apply. When I was able to source a servo and cover for a 300 I used that as it was almost the same as what I built. The C6 has a relay lever, I do not know if there are different ratios for them, I do know that there used to be a case girdle for the C6 to keep the case from spreading under hard shifts. If you can find someone who drag races a C6, they can at least steer you in the right direction. Good luck with it!

Supposedly, but sometimes they deliberately not identified as such to preclude thefts. Apparently FedUp is all contractors now, the Hampton VA location had stuff all over the parking lot last couple of weeks due to a spat over whose responsibility it was. Warehouse was full of undelivered shipments. This seems to have started May 1.

Jim, 1990 was when the oil cooler changed from an oil-air cooler to the "grenade" oil-water cooler. Darth had the washer originally, when I scored the cooler adapter at Pick-n-Pull it had the O-ring under the bolt head.

When I bought Darth, the filer adapter was loose on the engine and by the time I got him from Gordonsville VA to Suffolk VA where a friend had his shop, my 1987 Horizon was never going to rust the front end. I would do what Jim said about taking the adapter off. With it off the engine, put it in a vice so you can get at everything. Take a new FL1A filter (I wouldn't use a Fram on a lawnmower) and carefully screw it on until the gasket just touches the adapter face STOP! Now carefully use a feeler gauge to see if the hollow screw is FUBARed. There are a number of filters that look the same but have slight differences. The FL1A uses an American thread, some of the similar ones use a Metric thread that is close but not exact and it will go on partially or loosely and chew up the threads. Once you determine thread condition and verify that the correct filter will seat and seal properly you can reassemble the adapter to the block, square O-ring PN is -87947-S91, if you have the adapter with the grooved seat for the hollow bolt, that O-ring is F0TZ-6749-B, if you have the washer, I don't have that number. Once you get the adapter back on the engine, install the filter and loosen the adapter bolt just enough so you can turn the adapter. Proper location, the oil filter sits almost against the lower radiator hose when everything is correct.

Now neither tracking number brings up any results. The most charitable thing is their system is screwed up. more likely they have managed to lose both damn packages and don't want to admit it. I am seriously thinking of finding a good lawyer and sue them for us lacking the needed items for Mary's care. Well the contractor for FedEx just showed up with the second shipment, first is still missing.

I did and set it "public" so anyone can see it. Next is to talk to the local State Trooper and see if they can maybe harass them a bit.

Just don't use FedUp, er FedEx. The home health care people ordered some drainable colostomy pouches Tuesday May 12th, they were shipped from Durham NC on Wednesday May 13th when it never arrived I attempted to get an answer from FedUp, finally got some girl with a soft voice and strange accent, who when I told he it was medical supplies, said she would make the local (Chesapeake VA) office aware. No dice, still waiting for it to move from Chesapeake. I called back and got someone else (damn computerized automated systems) and again was told that Chesapeake would be notified. Yesterday evening, May 15th, the home care nurse called her supervisor who she thought was having another order sent from Durham via UPS, no, it was also FedUp. It is still showing to be delivered by end of day today, I guess that will be 11:59 PM. Apparently FedUp is all contractors now and they don't really care as long as they get paid, and apparently it isn't for deliveries, just a fixed payment scale. I will never use them again, if someone only wants to use FedUp, I will pass on dealing with them. I have screenshots of all the various iterations if anyone is interested. This is the latest on the first one's tracking: No attempt made, delivery scheduled for next business day Recommended action: No action required. Delivery re-scheduled for next business day. That was Wednesday, so I guess the next business day is the 32nd of Juvember?

You could also look into what some of the Dodge/Ram pickups used on the plug connectors on the LA series engines. I agree with Gary, the factory ones for the 460 engines work quite well. I have the earlier set on Darth and after 8-9 years they are still in good shape.

Chrome plated Corvair parts! Very old trick for brand C V8 covers.

Is your NOS air cleaner for a VV? They have a larger air cleaner opening.

Yes sir, the one he sent us to use in a friend's B/P Corvette back when they couldn't use the angle plug heads flew. We were running the new Charlotte road course and oval. The late Jim Fitzgerald could lose Dick on the infield course, and Dick would catch and pass him on the oval. Jim comes by the pits gesturing to his crew with the "who the heck is this guy?" action. Later when we were all cleaning up he asked who built the engine, Dick looked at me and I said sure. I'll tell him, told him I built it in my garage in Newport News. I built a few, an MG 1800 for an Elva Courier to run Sebring. Tuned a Spridget engine for a fellow, the builder wanted to know what I did to it, a lot of the secret was the driver, he had brass balls and could slide that unsynchro first car through a corner sideways.

Yes, but they are 2 1/2" and long with an H for the original single O2 sensor. I had to use them as the exhaust manifolds have different angles.

I towed boat trailers and small utility trailers many miles with my 1964 Falcon with the 260 V8. I have towed a 30' 5th wheel with a slideout first with my 1977 F150, then after finding out 3 things (1) Ford was balanced out on Diesel automatic F250s in Feb-Mar 1994 (coinciding with the Powerstroke introduction) (2) Dodge only had standard cab 2500s in 1994 and (3) GM's Diesel would not pull a 10K 5th wheel ("you can get a 454"). My late wife had taken a week off after quitting one job before starting another so I took the 5th wheel up to a place outside Gordonsville VA with the F150. She was next to a gentleman who had a 33 ft 5th wheel and a truck, he wanted to sell the truck for $4500, Karen said it was a crew cab dually, my reaction was "too big and unwieldy", well, as they said on TV, the rest is history/ I looked at the truck drove it, I think I found where came from, he was the 3 day a week part time mechanic at Gordonsville Ford. There were lots of little things wrong. I took my youngest son, Matt, and a tent up there in the 87 Horizon with the tow bar and a drawbar with a 2" ball I used behind the 77 with the pickup camper. Did a few needed repairs, like putting the Holley accelerator pump linkage on correctly. The seller brightly informed me it had an oil leak, by the time we got to a friend's house in Suffolk VA (he does phenomenal fiberglass work and both rear fenders were broken, part of one was in the bed) the Horizon looked like I had followed a Vega down I-64 and US 17. Roy fixed the fenders and I replaced the tie rods, they were still the original rubber insert Ford ones. Oil leak was the filer adapter bolt had loosened. That was 26 years ago last month, and needless to say I still have Darth.