85lebaront2

Jim, the homotrons are the queer electrons that go around blowing fuses.

Gee, let see, 1990 F250 donor truck $845, EEC-V system with 1 year of support $1500, MAF from 1995 Lincoln Continental parts car $0. Wiring harness from favorite junkyard, time invested to pull it. Updating everything underhood to 1996 specs, maybe $200 including new AC condenser and orifice tube, R134a and oil. With the donor truck I got a running, but using oil EFI 460, E4OD, all underhood brackets etc. On the C6 kickdown, check Lokar, they have some nice parts for about any application and they specifically make one for the Chevy style throttle lever with the bottom tail.

Probably 1/8 tank. BTW, I assume the injection system is in the "carburetor". You loose a lot of the benefits with a throttle body system vs port injection.

If my front tank is low, it will sometimes starve on a long up or downhill stretch, level road it will run down to the point that once I switch the pump will not even pick up afterwards. Rear tank will go until empty as the pickup is pretty well in the center.

Jim, you have to sure not to let any homotrons in. I just used the complete later system on my truck, Positive to relay and PMGR starter, signal from relay to PMGR starter solenoid, ground bundles with positive to the lower starter bolt/stud. That way all the high current draw (starter) is right where everything attaches. The PDC is fed through a double fusible link to the hot side of the starter relay. You think Ford battery cables are bad, at least you can buy them, I ended up building a negative cable for my Lebaron convertible.

Nicely planned out, it is amazing that in the time from when I converted Darth to MAF/SEFI there were essentially no aftermarket systems other than throttle body ones available for a 460. Lots of support if you had a 302 or 351, especially the 302, tons of Mustang stuff. The second issue was the transmission, I wanted two things, a lockup converter and an overdrive gear. For the first, there is no 3 speed HD Ford automatic transmission, a driveshaft OD unit was possible installed where the factory center support bearing goes, but still no lockup converter. I ended up purchasing a "donor" a 1990 F250, EFI 460 and E4OD. It gave me everything I needed for the initial change for $850, the aftermarket items at that time (2009) were over $3000. I wanted SEFI as it controls better and had initially acquired a WAY1 EEC-IV unit and a device called a TwEECer that piggybacks on the EEC-IV board and allows changes. Needed changes were Injector size, Cylinder displacement, Firing order and transmission shift points. To go aftermarket at that time required two controllers, engine and transmission. I was fortunate in having an extra 90mm MAF, the size used on the 460 as the one for the 302 and 351 is too small, it will run out to max flow before the 460 hits it's factory redline. Once I started trying to come up with the transmission shift and lockup strategy, I hit a dead end, the WAY1 EEC is programmed for a small engine (302) in a moderately heavy vehicle (Bronco) so it's transmission strategy is to use the higher reving 302's power curve meaning late shifts under power and unlock the converter at just about any throttle input. Heat is what kills the E4OD, due to a higher stall converter than a C6 it gets hot quickly running in unlock. While I was back and forth with people on the EEC tuning and TwEECer forums, I was contacted by Adam Marrer of what is now Core Tuning LLC, he offered me a nice package, EEC-V box, tuning software and support. We both had a learning curve, he on 460s and E4ODs, me on how to adjust the various parameters. You mention that your system will run 55 - 60 psi, welcome to my other world, Turbocharged Chryslers, base pressure is 55 static, rising to whatever boost level, in my case 15 psi, so 55 + 15 = 70 PSI. I am using the SAE J60R9 hose as Chrysler uses a 5/16" supply and 1/4" return. Ford fuel tanks, I have never seen a baffle for the pumps in the truck tanks, just a well where the pump (1985-1989) or module (1990-1996/7) sits. Every other EFI vehicle I have worked on does seem to have a reservoir, Chrysler uses the return fuel as a jet pump to draw fuel in to the reservoir the pump sits in. On your essentially return less system forward of the regulator, the high pressure is good, GM uses 65 psi on the Vortec 454 to prevent vapor lock (injectors are buried under the plenum). Good luck with it and keep us posted!

Maybe 66gtk might want it, he has a 351M with the EEC-III feedback carb.

Jim is correct, the old firing order 302s (actually clear back as far as my 1964 260 V8 Falcon) said to run the wires in the sequence 7,5,6,8 through the guides, 460s and FE engines were 5,7,6,8. As to the balancer, mine came apart, not catastrophically, but enough that I changed it. Look for signs that the rubber bonding the two pieces together hasn't allowed one piece to slip.

I found that one too, I was looking for written instructions so they can be referred back to. One item, on most of the FBCs I have worked on, idle mixture adjustment sometimes requires propane enrichment or similar as the mixture control will screw with it while you try to adjust it. No, the last thing I had with a FBC was a 1985 Chrysler Lebaron with a POS system that makes your EEC-III look advanced. It had the Mitsubishi 2.6L engine with a Mikuni-Solex carb that used 3 duty cycle solenoids, The computer was like many Mitsubishi built ones, bad grounds inside it. Car would go lean on acceleration, then sort of act like OH SHIT he wants to go, and suddenly zoom forward. I took the system off and put an earlier carb on.

Gary, you see the plastic assembly with the plug on the right inner fender, that is the BARO/MAP sensor. The Baro portion needs to go to 20-25" vacuum for at least 10 seconds then released. I found a procedure on-line. Here it is as a .jpg file, I can email you the original pdf if you want it for your files.

Do you know when the advance starts, what rpm? If it is below your normal idle speed it will be very hard to (a) set the timing and (b) get a stable idle. Automatic transmissions can be loads of fun sometimes with advance kits.

Ok, one idle mixture not working could be either a plugged idle jet in that side cluster, or an air leak killing 4 cylinders. Ignition, what distributor are you using? If a regular DS-II I would check the advance mechanism and make sure it is fully functional.

Very nice! My kids had a similar one done for me of my 1966 Shelby GT350. If your dad likes it as much as I did mine I'm sure he will keep it.

I am trying to figure out the^^^^ "big reservoir tank selector valve" as I have a fuel filter housing with the big tank and filter, but if memory serves I believe my selector valve is seperate? Am I following that correctly? Greg, if the filter/tank unit has 6 ports (3 large and 3 smaller ones) they should be plumbed with one large port to the HP pump, and the adjacent smaller port to the fuel return on the engine fuel rail. The primary filter should be in front of the HP pump. The top portion of that assembly is a diaphragm operated tank selector valve. Whichever in-tank pump is active moves the in-feed to the reservoir to that port and opens the corresponding return line to that tank. The other 4 ports will be: 1 large and one smaller to the front tank and 1 large and one smaller to the rear tank. If the in-tank pumps are working then the power/ground factory wiring is good to that point. Your issue would probably be in connector C127 at the pink with black dash? wire. The fuel tank selector is on the "upstream" side of that so power is good to there, the ground side should also be good due to the way the system is wired. Any breaks in the portion of the harness to the HP pump on either side, power or ground will prevent it from running.

The difference is in the tank selector valve, all 1985/86 EFI trucks I have seen had the big reservoir tank selector valve. The only resistors were on the in-tank pump carbureted trucks (460 w/hot fuel handling package). If he hot wired both sides of the system (power and ground) and it works, I would look at G701 as the entire system grounds there.

Gary, one of the items Ford changed in 1987 was the battery, it changed to a group 65 and the posts are reversed in location, basically the battery is rotated 180° so the posts are to the back and negative is nearest the fender. The other item, starting in 1992, the negative cable goes all the way to the lower starter bolt. Positive is a combined cable with the main cable going to the starter solenoid and a branch to the relay. The other side of the relay goes to the small terminal on the starter solenoid.The three wires (positive, negative and control) run together under the motor mount to the starter. The truck power is a double fusible link to the large yellow wire to the PDC on the left side behind the air filter and coolant/washer reservoir.

Two items, (a) I would use the 1986 diagram. I have never seen a 1985 wired like the EVTM shows. (b) in the reservoir/tank selector valve on 1985/86 only is a filter element that looks like one in some of the old mechanical pumps. If it is clogged you will have fuel starvation problems.

I kind of liked the stereo system in my GT350, dual Hooker header mufflers and side exhausts it sounded real nice at 55 - 70 mph.

The 1985/86 computer systems were essentially a stand alone system, they plugged into the front harness where the DS-II system would.

If they pass through an oval grommet in the firewall, 1985-86 trucks all seem to have the hole, but non-computer models have a plug there. If you, or someone else on here can find some of those in junkyards it would be a big help.

Jim, 3/8-16 with a 1/2" AF washer head. Darth now has the later style with a 5/16-18 stud on the lower one for the ground cable.

Probably no adjustment for the TPS, if there is it will probably be a reference voltage like the first EFI engines. Do yourself a favor, try to find a Motorcraft or at least Fomoco brand part, many of the aftermarket stuff is junk. 1966 Mustang, from your screen name I would bet a 1966 GT with the K code HiPo 289. Here's what I used to own: I had the Shelby-American 10 spoke (10 outer, 5 inner) mags on when I owned it. They were apparently real magnesium as they were super light.

You pull the choke and the fast idle cam to remove the TPS.

Welcome to the group! Several of us on here own trucks with the 460 (7.5L) engine so you will find plenty of help on that.

The EEC-III requires pulling a vacuum on the BARO sensor until it thinks you are on the moon, then it will give you voltmeter sweeps for codes.