85lebaront2

Looks good sir!

I have a large assortment of Ford, GM and Chrysler wiring harness and connector retainers. He is seeking NOS or unused ones for a restoration. I sent him pictures of what I have in that style.

Ya, and I thought mine was heavy enough with the one spring. Heavy spring, a friend found out the hard way that these needed a heavy spring. With both secondaries open, let off the gas and count 1 2 3 and then it would close. The Holley vacuum secondaries had enough strength at WOT to over power the normal Mustang return spring through the mechanical closing links. Once I installed a stronger spring there was no more problem. FYI, that is two Holley 4160 series 465 cfm carbs for a total of 930 cfm on a .030 over Cobra 289 engine. Picture courtesy of the current owner.

How many do you need? I have a large plastic jar full of parts like that.

Damn, it's been a long time since I sent Jim (ardwrkntrk) my old air filter. The green delay valve needs manifold vacuum as it's function is to hold the auxiliary air door closed until the vacuum drops. The other line on Darth's went to the top of the air filter to a thermal control valve then to the inlet snorkel vacuum motor. It's function was to heat the incoming air until everything warmed up to allow a leaner mixture for emissions to be used. That one I believe went to the vacuum tree in front o the carb.

Yes, I can't swear it will completely solve the issue, but it should help.

The gap to the clutch housing and spacer will not change except a small amount from heat expansion, the header and engine are securely attached together. The frame to engine is a different matter. Unfortunately you didn't do the fitup before having the headers coated. Someone did a study of "hammer tuning" headers and found that even fairly large dents in them didn't noticeably effect performance (this was done on a dyno). If you had done a fitup with the old block and EFI heads and corrected the interference then had the headers coated no one would probably ever notice. Keep in mind the engine will rotate clockwise viewed from the rear under torque except in reverse, so normally the header will be moving away from the right side frame rail.

On your throttle lever, there are 5 holes in the upper portion, one big one, two small, one real small and a little bit bigger one. If you can use the lowest hole in the throttle lever, that should be about the correct radial distance out for the Ford cable, problem is the too far forward (Ford's throttle lever sits at almost 90° degrees at closed throttle). I would do as Jim suggested and run the spring forward from the lever. If you take a small piece of flat bar and use it as an extension on the bottom of the cable bracket to move it forward enough to get things in the correct orientation.

No, I do not have headers on Darth, after two cars with headers and getting very proficient at replacing the exhaust gaskets (I had a stack of real asbestos ones) there is no way I want them on a truck!

Gary, I'm really not surprised, the right side is so close on the engine with the 460 that there is virtually no room for anything. It's a big enough PITA to get to the exhaust pipe flange nuts on that side.

Most likely the problem is the replacement carburetor throttle levers are French (Chevrolet) style and the ball sits further forward than a Ford throttle ball. This means the return spring on the cable is pretty much at full extension to reach idle. Since Ford does not provide a cable adjustment, there are two main options, modify the bracket to sit in a more forward position or add a spring to the throttle lever. You need to be sure you are getting full travel as the Chevy throttle arm is longer than Ford's so the cable has to move further for full opening. This is why I hate "universal" carburetors, they are made for Chevy linkage and anyone else is SOL sometimes to get things to work right. Just be glad it's not a Mopar with a throttle rod to the Torqueflite.

Welcome to the group. I at one point considered a Cummins for Darth, but it was out of my price range at that point.

The C6 uses 5/16" lines with inverted flare fittings, flow is out the front line to the cooler then back in the rear for lubrication. Recommended flow for two coolers is transmission to radiator to air cooler then back to the transmission. Darth was set up that way from the factory.

They are greatly improved. If you use the 3.5" opening the older sender/pickup/pump assembly will go in, but the alignment tabs are in the wrong place. The older tanks have a ring to keep the inner vent tube in place, the later tanks lack this due to the change in the fillers.

Very nicely done!

Yes, but he needs to first get the fuel pressure issue resolved. I had already suggested getting it on an ignition scope and walked him through some of the tests needed.

Always glad to help Jim, after all a 22" monitor is a lot better than a phone screen.

Jim, you are correct in the fact that the system morphed, it changed several times. The 1985 system does have a fuel tank selector relay, that diagram can be found here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electric-fuel-pump-control1.html It still uses the big tank selector valve, but the relay is for the pumps, red for front tank pump and brown/white for rear tank pump. The fuel pump cutoff relay is controlled by the oil pressure switch same as the 1986 system.

Check your VIN to see what engine it came with. The canister, if it has 6 lines going to it sounds like it is for an EFI 302. The hot fuel handling package on Darth was a 6 port motor operated valve that changed tanks by switching which pump was powered and changing the gauge to that sender. If your truck originally had a 302 and someone stuck a 1984 460 in and was clever enough to change the section with the emission information also that could be some of the issues.

Angelo, other than a 460 or 300, there should be enough room in front of the water pump shaft for a 2000 up Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis/Town Car two speed electric fan. It is for the same core size as the 1984-96/7 V8 gas engine radiator. It does draw some serious power in high speed. I have one I was planning on using and turned upside down on the floor, it would damn near lift off on high. It uses a 30 amp circuit breaker for low and a 50 amp fuse for high. The relay is a special high current one, same style a lot of ABS pumps use. I was going to put one on Darth till I found there is a whopping 5 1/4" from the water pump shaft to the radiator. If you decide to try I have a diagram I set up that doesn't need a computer for control.

Remember the information I dug up on the Saginaw pumps and the different flow control valves. Since virtually all US manufacturers used them at some point they can be found for pretty well any application.

Gary, are you sure you never worked for NASA?

I have a good used set for 1985-86 302 EFI.

O2 sensor for the 1985-86 302s is in the rear of the right exhaust manifold. If the manifold was changed, the replacement may not have had a place for it. Two options if this is the case, get a correct manifold (may be a problem) or have an exhaust shop put a bung in the exhaust pipe. On that location you will need to probably use a heated O2 sensor for it to work properly. Nice looking truck!