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https://arstechnica.com/ai/2024/06/can-a-technology-called-rag-keep-ai-models-from-making-stuff-up/

Always use sealant. I like Loctute PST, but any anerobic gasket compound should work.

Check your TFI. They overheat, and kill the engine when asked to go. Ford had to recall tens of millions of these and was subject to a class action lawsuit. The ultimate solution is to remote mount the module. You can get a kit from FatFoxx or McCully racing, (that mount the 5.0 into Miata's). Even if this isn't the root cause of your trouble, it is definitely required futureproofing.

Maybe contact Weber. They own all the IP from Carter, Edelbrock, etc..,

I'm glad to hear that Ian continues to be involved. He's young, impressionable and enthusiastic. What more could you ask for? Don't know, and haven't heard about the other half of that twinship, but I do think of her as well. How is Janey doing? That's a pretty big scare.

I'm still trying to figure out a case spreader for my 10.25. Bill, can you get me a picture and some dimensions? Anybody.....????

Two screws and the oval plate can be chiseled out of the seam sealant goop. That body bracket tends to collect a lot of crap. Sometimes it's not easy to undo.

My plastic tanked '87 radiator was anodized black. I have one from "The Giving Truck" now....(95 F-450l

But aluminum is a better heat sink than brass. If we wanted to get stupid we would make them of silver!

I don't think those castings are going to bend, at all. The spring overcenter mechanism is really simple, but a little fiddly to get back together. Somewhere along the way the clutch spring should be pushing on the throw out arm, pushing on the slave, pushing on the master cylinder piston+pushrod, which pushes on the little arm attached to the cross shaft through the four fingered plastic retainer bushing. You're sure the cross shaft bushings are good? I've seen where the bushings are completely gone and the steel shaft has eaten the pedal support oval.

What does it say, or is it just a check or something? These are usually just for assembly, so someone farther down the line can tell at a glance rather than trying to read a buck tag with the body shell in motion.

Up here the mag chloride brine the DOT puts on the road will eat the fins right out of the heat exchanger. Plastic deformation is literally the ability if a metal to yield without failure, whereas elastic deformation is the ability to flex or otherwise shift, and return to normal (prior) state. Plastic deformation does not equal failure, unless the point is rigidity. (In which case they should me using magnesium/beryllium or something stiff like that) While aluminum can work harden and become brittle, proper choice of alloy, filler and annealing after welding would virtually eliminate that possibility. You are suggesting that Champion uses crap material and has poor process control. (which may be the case. I've never had to deal with one) But they should stop blowing their own horn, if they have this sort of failure rate, are informed of it, don't do anything about it, and send out another batch that are just as bad as they know the first ones are/were.

Looks great Erik! What kind of primer & paint system are you using on your truck?

Because of a cracked seam/weld, or did something drill a hole in it?

Bias plus? LS or no?

Matt, have you considered a pair of locking pliers to pinch the 20 yo gasket tighter into the head tank?

And you think aluminum is less prone to corrosion than brass? Keep the coolant changed every 5 years and if your water is hard use distilled. I see brass and bronze all over vintage yachts and powerboats. Never aluminum, even though it was everywhere leading up to WWII Chrome, because chrome oxide is self healing and creates a shell. But shiny surfaces don't shed heat. That's why any good aluminum radiator is anodized black.

Decades ago, but the next time I'm by a parts store I'll get you a number.

I know the Daytona and the Eagle Talon were Mitsubishi vehicles. I don't recall a Challenger, but I've had too many concussions.

I used to drive a black 70's Dodge van with a 318 and 3-on-the-tree We called her Mariah and it was like sitting in an oven. I'm glad one of the guys finally totalled it. I just remember how bad the brakes would fade in my grandfathers station wagon. He was very good about maintenance and adjustments, but he would say things on Sicilian that would make a sailor blush. (he also drove like a maniac, but that's not new)

Stops fine, Once. I wouldn't want an auto in the hills or on any kind of long downhill grade. But, yeah that's just me. I made it to the 21st century, I guess I expect too much.

I guess I'm glad that I've never heard of all these damn problems with radiators, and have only had to replace mine once, because the fan killed (not a radiator 'failure') I sure do know about heater cores though!!! We're fortunate enough to still have a automotive radiator and A/C shop locally. They record radiators for big trucks and heavy equipment. Rickey pressure tests and dates every radiator or heater core that he lets out the door.

Use something that lubricates and leaves a film that protects against further oxidation . That's why I use tuner cleaner over contact cleaner 3/4 of the time

I call the new Bronco Sport "the new Bronco II." As Salans noted, the Bronco II was essentially renamed "Explorer", but then the Explorer morphed into a different vehicle. The Bronco Sport is what the Bronco II / Explorer would have evolved into if it hadn't been bitten by a radioactive spider (or whatever happened to it to make it change into a different vehicle with an old name). About the only vehicle I can think of that remains true to form is the Dodge Challenger

Are the females loose? If the pins are corroded try some De-Oxit D5 and work it on and off a few times then flush it out with the same tuner cleaner. Did you ever consider just running a ty-wrap around the connector, through the wires on each side? Thats what I have to do with my blower motor, because I've changed the pigtail twice and it keeps cracking the bail/latch off.