ArdWrknTrk

Many PCV valves are sold with that top outlet blocked (and you have to snip the end of or ream them) So definitely put a vacuum cap on it. I am not certain if your Canadian 351HO would have had something attached but I don't see anything on your reproduction vacuum label. Surprised you wouldn't have heard it if it was open before. Another good find! You'll have much better oil control and the oil will stay cleaner too.

Jim, the distributor unit seems to hold vacuum. I made , creating some vacuum (with my mouth ), and the engine rpm accelerate. That's great news! I typically use my MityVac brake bleeder to test vacuum "hg and operate things like distributors and HVAC controls. Hopefully it's easy to get dialed in once you get everything connected.

Be careful what garage you deal with. Finding one with a 1/2" distributor wrench could prove a challenge! Obviously, at some point someone felt they could get over on you and hide their "handiwork". I looked at my V-REST and couldn't easily find an engineering number to help your search. (they are tiny) Maybe Gary has information in 'The Tower'? I'm quite sure Big Brother will need some distributor adjustment once the vacuum is working (if the unit in there now even holds vacuum) When idling my Crane adjustable advance easily pulls in 20° on top of 12° static. 32-36° is not unusual for these engines.

Everything is relative. The 460 is a bigger lump of iron than Jeff's 351. As Soon As Possible doesn't mean "fast" it just means heat has priority over the block. Yes. It sure seems ridiculous that Big Brother had no vacuum advance (and I wonder where the static timing was set) When I find hidden stuff like this I want to throttle someone! Hopefully Jeff can get a proper V-REST. He'll notice power as well as economy since that's why vacuum+mechanical advance is installed.

Yes, it's in the 'neck' where the upper radiator hose attaches. So it senses heat after any thermostat restrictions. It is basically a wax pellet that has a calibrated coefficient of expansion pushing open a shuttle port. The heater is always run in a closed bypass loop (it avoids the thermostat and radiator) This gets heat to the cab -and the throttle body- ASAP while allowing the thermostat to function getting the block/engine up to operating temperature.

Ok, here is the situation about rebuilding the PVS vacuum circuit: 1- Big Brother’s situation before my modification: I thought that the distributor was connected to the carburetor: With this Ford Vacuum Delay Valve #E3AE-DA between the two: Well, it looked being connected… if there wasn’t a steel ball blocking the tube! Ok, so let’s start again: Big Brother’s distributor WASN’T vacuum connected, period. 2- Rebuilding the vacuum circuit: I installed a new PVS 3 port valve, and connected the “D” port to the distributor: Now, I have to plug the port 1 and 2 to something. Remember, I am rebuilding only the distributor vacuum circuit, not the "solenoid/throttle" one: 3- Questions: A) Plug the tube with Vacuum Restrictor on port 1 or port 2? B) Can I use the «Ford Vacuum Delay Valve #E3AE-DA» as the "V REST" shown on the diagram? C) What’s the goal of such restrictor, since there is a parallel vacuum tube without restriction? Do I have to NOT install this not restricted tube? EDIT: Here is my proposal. But still doesn’t understand the goal of an unrestricted parallel tube… Hi. Jeff We have similar vacuum advance setups. (A) the vacuum restriction goes to port 1 As shown it is farthest from the threaded end of the thermo-valve. (B) The delay valve is not a V-REST. I can try to get you a picture of mine if it would help. Edit: photo of yellow switch valve and blue V-REST The restriction limits the amount of vacuum reaching the advance diaphragm. © The point of having an unobstructed path is so that vacuum can be used to control idle speed. The valve in the thermostat neck will shift to straight manifold vacuum in the event the engine starts to overheat. This pulls the idle speed up a few hundred rpm (which turns the fan and water pump faster) This means if the truck were stuck idling in traffic it would make an attempt to cool itself off without much affecting performance off idle. This is essentially "vacuum logic" that was common before computers and electronics in vehicles.

It looks like the JBG kit has the input and both output seals, along with the shifter and speedo seals plus adapter gasket.

Could this possibly be the difference between a slip yoke and a fixed yoke output? I know my slip yoke 1356 has the conical type seal.

My truck used to have a T-19 ( very similar w/ synchro 1st) But it also had the plastic pads moulded into the forks, not little channels that slip on. You might give double clutching a try just to see if anything is different.

I think I got that tidbit from On Any Sunday, excellent motorcycle production! Definitely an excellent movie from my youth but as much as I admired Malcom Smith and the whole California MX scene it wasn't until '78 that we could drive up to Unadilla and watch the 250 GP races and I really got hooked. Marty Tripes won on his Honda. (I had a CZ 250) Those were great days for racing in the Finger Lakes region of NY. I saw the Watkins Glen GP races throughout the late '70's culminating in Gilles Villeneuve's '79 win. The Quebecoise contingent was estatic!

Can you double clutch it into or out of 2nd? If the case was torn down and rebuilt I'd expect new synchros if ANY wear was apparent. If that was the problem the gearbox just wouldn't match speeds into and out of 2nd. The fork could be bent or missing it's wear pads (but again, you pay close attention 🧐 to these things when the box goes back together) Vacuum bleeding has failed for me before. I bought an Excedy slave with an actual bleed nipple. Then I took a clear tube and ran it up into the reservoir and just pumped clear fluid in an endless loop. But I think if you have no problems with 3rd and 4th you don't have a problem with clutch release. It really seems like a rail problem to me. Let's see what others have to suggest...

That's an amazing transformation! Really looks great.

Hydraulic clutch systems have no adjustment. They are troublesome to bleed. Most of us suggest that if you can get the truck in gear just drive it and the bubbles will shake out up into the reservoir. External slaves for the T-18 & 19 need a minimum of 5/8" 'throw' (actuation) and 3/4 would be better. It could well be that your shift lever assembly is worn out or bent in some way, but you can catch 4th fine, correct?

If it's for Jeff it better be Robertson....

That's the name Steve McQueen raced under at Elsinore, I believe! I didn't know that Dane! Registering under an alias definitely sounds like something he might do to keep from drawing too much attention. The drink is basically a screwdriver with Galliano.

That definitely looks like a tequila sunrise. (you have to be of age in the '70's to know what that or a Harvey Wallbanger is ) I believe there were a bunch of regional or dealer specific tape packages for these trucks as well. (Rocky Mountain and Texas editions definitely)

One might consider the silicone caps often sold to protect hose barbs and screw threads from powder coat. They are pretty inert and easily handle the oven heat. IDK if an assortment is available in all black but I see a few sets on Amazon that are color coded by size (1/8-1/2")

To more directly address Jeff's question «Uh? All midship 19gal tanks aren't the same?» (Sorry, I didn't catch this edit. ) The tank bung size changed for '85, when electric in-tank pumps became available. So wether you had an electric pump (4 pin connector) or a mechanical pump (2 pin. sender only) the '85 & on tanks came with a bigger hole on top.

In all cases the aft tank would be 19 gallons. Except for Broncos that kept their spare tire on the swing--away tailgate carrier. These came with a deeper rear tank and a skid plate for off road as can be seen here: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1985-on-f-series.html Short bed trucks (117" wb) got a 16 gallon midship tank. Pretty much all 133 and longer wheelbase trucks came with a 19 gallon midship tank. Chassis cab trucks had straight frame rails behind the cab that were narrower to fit industry standard dump, utility or flat/rack beds. Pickup tanks don't fit inside the CC trucks frame. They came with a 22 gallon tank.

Right. I bought the clips from LMC. They are M14x2.0, but I confirm that regular 1/2x13 bolt fits correctly too. Well, that's certainly interesting....

John mentions Stickermule in a thread from the Admin section. https://www.stickermule.com/uses/car-decals Perhaps that's why it's so hard to find??? https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Your-Input-On-URL-Site-Forum-Name-amp-Sticker-Please-td101634.html

I posted the volume in another thread. It is a quart in 15 seconds {or 60 gph) Gary has it in the documentation Right column, page 37 of TSB 84-24-14 found here: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/460-fuel-systems.html

According to Ralph's post they are M14 x 2.0 mm.... 1999-2016 trucks use M14x2mm bed mounting clips. These are 45mm to center and grip up to 4mm thick Mount Bolt Nut - Ford# (W708770-S436) See also, Auveco # 25041 Amazon https://a.co/d/dmlhkuE

Also, if there is any of the diesel harness left you should be using a PMGR starter on the 460 since the diesels are are already wired for one. You will want to connect the NSS of the C6 into the starter trigger circuit. (manuals are jumpered under the dash) I see it would be simple to repurpose the glow plug relay to power an HEI. It's challenging for me to trace this all out on my phone, and a lot will depend on what's left of the diesel harnesses.

Holy cow! Those things are like 13 1/2" long https://www.fastenersplus.com/products/1-2-13-x-14-carriage-bolt-hot-dip-galvanized-pkg-1?utm_term=&utm_campaign=%23z+Shopping+-+Anchors+-+Anchor+Mates&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=3477180114&hsa_cam=20219156810&hsa_grp=158203958108&hsa_ad=660353541324&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-2273914708512&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQjwho-lBhC_ARIsAMpgMocFwcotACkIi9iVDmwwXDjNa3F1pXMjl4Cq-uQ9B6rJ9e6MOHomo1caAlhXEALw_wcB (You'd have to run a die up the threads and grind off the zinc to weld a nut on one and a washer + ring onto the other, but they are the only ones I found right away)