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Welcome! I used to have an '85 GT. They're fun little cars Tell us something about your truck.

Wow, I'm sorry to hear that you've caught Covid again. Hope you and Janey are back to 100% quickly!

I would look at LTD's and Country Squire's from the mid-late '70's They definitely came with the 400 as a base engine and a 'ham can' PS pump.

Correction Gary. The Lares is a NEW C2. (at least from the linked thread) "Hello JF, Yes our part #12338 is a upgraded design which runs quieter than the original OE." https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lsc-12338 The Lee is a C2 case with Saginaw guts. https://leepowersteering.com/collections/power-steering-pumps/products/ford-cii-power-steering-pump-replacement "Our solution to this was to have our own steering pump housing made that takes tried and true Saginaw internals"

Welcome! . Solid looking truck. I'm not usually a big fan of blanket seat covers but it really works with that color combo.

Before you go swapping out the light switch check fuse #4 (15A) because that would kill all your lights. It's the tan/white feed wire (circuit 195) that usually has a pigtail meltdown. You're hot on its heels. I'm sure you can figure it out tomorrow!

If you have none of those lights it has to be between the fuse panel and splice 806. Splice 806 is listed as (Taped Over) 'near heater control switch'

That 5A fuse is powered by the Lb/R wire (circuit 19) coming from the wire wound rheostat on the headlamp switch. If you don't have power to either side of the fuse check continuity from the switch connector to the panel before pulling everything apart.

So is it just the cluster? Do you have illumination of the climate control, radio and headlamp/wiper switches? If so, that points to the plug on the back of the cluster or the flex circuit.

It's all good now. Carefully look at the wires coming from the plug of the headlamp switch. If they get overheated and melt they can short or fail open. You can get both the 7&8 pin wiring pigtails from Pico. https://www.picowiring.com/catalog.html

Welcome Steve! You probably want to start with the Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html What specifically is the trucks problem?

I see this and am reminded that the Ford C2 steering pump will erupt from the breather hole in the reservoir cap if the wheels are turned with the engine off

Welcome! You certainly get your point across... 1) Never considered this, though I've never heard of anyone else doing it. 2) 75 v/s 85 R15 tires might accomplish this. There's plenty of calculators or the RPMile is shown. 3) I can measure an Expy next weekend. I know the front half is F-150 all the way. Those Expedition axles w/ disc brakes will prove challenging to get correct line pressure and parking brakes working. 4) I pointed another member to the bodybuilder's handbook the other day, which shows the spring centerline as 44.49" Yes, E-series and pre-'80 frames have different widths, and therefore spring/shock perches, but I don't know who has the book for these vehicles.

Yow! That line is pretty ugly where it passes over the U-bolt. I'd imagine the tank vents look about the same.... If you intend to make up your own lines you can make good anti-vibration coils for the master cylinder by wrapping tube around a thin bottle. Do your best not to forget which way the nut fits -before- making your double flare in the end of the line.

Except the box to shaft is 'keyed' by one missing spline. You can't 'clock' the shaft except for 360° off, and the sector box is ~3 1/2 turns lock to lock.

You think the pockets aren't 1.42 x 2.24"? The 6 3/4' dimensions (L5 & L3) should be correct at 7.52" front of bed to C and 73.04 C-C

I do see to front stake pocket (L3) stake pocket C-C (L5) for the 6 3/4' bed on the top right of the page.

You may find what you need on page 6 of the body builders specifications. But this is not a short bed. 🤷 https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1985-body-builders.html

Are you making your own lines or buying pre-made? You can usually get standard 3/16 lines in 8" - 5' lengths, and fitting the long line down inside the frame rail beside the gas tank can be challenging. I make all my own lines from nickel/copper with a double flare tool. In any case the nicopp tube is a LOT easier to work with. If you're replacing the drivers side rear axle wheel cylinder line be aware that the fitting at the brass junction block is an odd oversized nut. So, if you're using off the shelf 3/16 tube you need the (unobtainable) adapter ifitaintbroke mentioned above. If you're making your own lines you can reuse the nut, if it isn't completely destroyed.

I agree 100% with Cory (I use the Wixey magnetic angle finder) but you have to be parked on an absolute level surface for any measurement to be meaningful.

Your EFI engine has both a sender and a sensor. (ECT) The sensor is two wire and tells the computer to richen the mixture of a cold engine. The sender is single wire and grounds the gauge with variable resistance so the needle moves. With a good meter you should see approximately 5.5V pulsing on this wire. Ground the (#39 R/W) wire and the gauge should full temp (don't do this for long or you will damage the instrument) You should familiarize yourself with the 1985 EVTM (Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) It can be found under Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1985-evtm.html You can usually find these used on eBay for ~$25 delivered.....

I try to help when I can, but I'm far from the most knowledgeable person here on the forum. We're all very fortunate that Gary has so much information archived online.

Sure looks like one. I'd assume for radio noise suppression because without points there's no arcing involved triggering the coil.

Gary has a lot of documentation here on site. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1985-f-series-302-wefi.html Paper manuals are hit or miss. I got my EVTM and engine manual used on eBay. Helm inc. is authorized to reprint the factory manuals, but they can be pricey.

Those two "ports" on top of the charcoal canister vent into the intake when the engine is running at operating temperature. The canister collects vapor from the fuel tank(s) and the suction side is controlled by solenoid valves. There is a Ford training manual explaining the basics of emissions systems. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/understanding-emissions-controls.html