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I'm kinda surprised you didn't tag me for this thread???? . 1) I cut the pinch bolt ends off the cheap eBay shaft and used the splined rag joint end of an old bullnose shaft (I got from you) and welded it onto the 2009-14 lower shaft. I also needed to weld the "double D" through bolt top end of my '87 shaft onto the U-joint shaft. 2) Cory said an '87-'91 shaft will fit a Bullnose. Again, the shaft I used was 2009-- 2014. not '87-'91.

Pics here, Sept 10 2020: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/WHYDTYTT-What-Have-You-Done-To-Your-Truck-Today-tp148p74094.html Laid out before any cutting. And installed: And this link here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Lower-rag-joint-steering-shaft-used-tp126923p126939.html

Gary, look for Norma brand hose clamps on that Bel Metric site Bill recommended to you. They have embossed teeth and rolled edges so they can't slice the hose.

For me the difference between $30 and $300 for the Borgenson shaft was a deal breaker. I needed to do something about my rag joint and had more time than money.

I know I did post a few photos of me welding it (making sure the splines at each end were clocked correctly) But they're not on this phone. I went to check Google photos and the above pic is the only one there. Edit:see the next post...... 💡

Gary, the lower shaft has U-joints on both ends. (the one at the sector box is covered by the plastic shroud)

I just replied in another thread that id adapted a later ('09-'14) lower shaft. It does away with the rag joint and the sloppy plastic bushing. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Restore-of-my-1986-Bronco-XLT-tp137348p141979.html Id be interested to see if anything turns up for the cab bolt cover plates. Since I had to replace the floor anyway, I ended up making them round and getting some thick plastic bulkhead block-offs. At least they'll never rust??? Edit to ask: did you change your username to match your YouTube channel?

Glad I could help. I wasn't suggesting that you repaint your truck, just that you want to stop the water running in over the doors (or down through the kick panels) before it causes major structural problems. On my truck the rust ate up the whole lower hinge mounting plate on that side and made it impossible to open and close the door. The A-pillars are many layered and it was a big challenge (for me) to remove the cancer and make it solid again.

I did away with my rag joint entirely by welding the steering box input spline to a later(2009-14) F-150 lower shaft that Incorporates universal joints and a cross shaped sliding section. I had to be careful by keeping the joint wrapped in a wet rag, but it removed all that slop and vagueness from my steering. 😉 Like this one on eBay

They've got the chain. It fits both the 1345 and my 1356. I think the price you've found is good. I don't want to tell you what I paid when I cooked my transfer case a few years back in the hinterlands of Vermont.

I'd like to take a moment today to thank and honor all our veterans! Without whom Americans wouldn't have the freedom and opportunity we enjoy every day. 🇺🇲

I went back to the beginning and read what you have to say. 1st, I have to ask when setting the base timing do you have the distributor disconnected and the vacuum line plugged? 22° should have the starter struggling to turn the engine and kicking back when you release the key. A DS-II ignition module should retard the ignition timing a few degrees while the starter is engaged, but not more than 4° or so. (I think Gary measured it in milliseconds with his O-scope) Reconnect the vacuum line and I'd expect 22° to be a minimum for proper timing at idle. But this still doesn't explain your suggestion that "The factory setting was 3° of timing" It should say on.the emissions sticker to set the timing at 8° with the curb idle set to something like 650 in drive for automatics. Also, never use Teflon tape on fuel fittings. The previous owner must not understand that fuel systems rely on flare fittings, which seal metal on metal. The nut only applies pressure to hold the flare together. If fuel has reached the threads the flared line and filter are not doing their primary job. Given that you observe a bunch of excess silicone glopped around the timing case (cover plate, In a 335 series engine?) I'd expect the chain and sprockets were changed not too many miles ago. There's nothing else in there, for it to have been removed. When trying to determine if the harmonic damper's timing ring has slipped it shouldn't really matter whether you are on compression or exhaust. The damper is keyed directly to the crank. The pistons go up and down with the crank as well. It's only the cam that turns at 1/2 speed (because the cam gear has twice as many teeth as the crank gear)

There is caulking in the gutter seams and around to the back window corners. It's a common place for leaks because it dries out and no one under 6'8" is ever going to see it. Basically if it's loose or cracked you need to dig it out. Prep the rust and reapply seam sealer.

I wouldn’t want an ONN for a TV without a soundbar or some kind of alternate audio output. The speakers are horrible in them (we have one in our MBR). Not an issue on these for church as we won’t need sound. I’d say their tablets would be decent. Probably a good price right now. I got these TV’s for $298. They are normally $348, which is already cheaper than any other brand. Maybe a soundbar is in your future if a deal comes up? Black Friday if there are any left? I haven't owned a TV in 40 years. I just want a personal media consumption device with an unblemished screen and a battery that holds.a charge. An actual 3.5mm jack would be a plus for late nights. .

👍👍👍 Their store brand ONN devices get good reviews for something made to a price point. They're not heavily skinned or loaded with advertising and surveillance ware to my knowledge. I'm considering the 11" tablet Pro

Yes. The stock mounting is a spring steel bracket that bolts directly to the parking brake assembly! That thing must ring like a bell every time you release the parking brake pawl.

I'm sure you have these OCR'd and saved to your device. I use the ones here on site to answer questions posed by members but I use my paper copy almost exclusively when working on my own truck.

Did you ever consider simply throwing a high volume oil pump in it and keep driving? 🤔 Does it rattle, burn oil or have any pressure leaks? My engine has low(ish) oil pressure hot, and I took an Amazon deal for 10w60. It worked well for my last oil change but I'm not going to pay retail. And if I have to pull my engine to get the pan off and swap in my NOS Melling HV pump I'm not going to re-install a 15 year old reman even if it is reliable and doesn't show signs of burning oil.

I agree with Gary but might add that you could also have lost the ground pigtail coming from the intermittent switch. That will also leave you with nothing but high. Just the other day I pulled out my module (which is wrapped in foam rubber and ziptied up behind my fuse panel) so I could get at my hazard flasher

Good thought! I added a couple saved searches (one with just EVTM as an acronym and one with the words spelled out). Looks like you can get a CD version but like you said a hard copy is so much more useful. I found this at the right side of the hole for the radio after removing all that sliced in radio harness junk. I’m guessing this is G701. I have to assume Gary is correct, that G701 is on the firewall, and I just tested for continuity between the dash frame screw and my gas tank harness plug. I'm without an optical drive for many years, but I do have manuals on CD. I find the book gets greasy fingerprints but the battery never goes dead and I can read it while standing on my head under the dash. Plus... the screen doesn't scratch or shatter You've got this one on the ropes! I'm sure you will have your bad ground or open circuit solved quickly.

As I said WAY before, when I click the share button on YouTube I don't get a 'code' or 'imbed' option. . Just a 'copy link' or the regular-

On my side, I can hide the top menu if I swap the whole screen to the top. Works in Portrait and landscape modes. I noticed that the full screen "square button" is not available in portrait mode.But once the full screen mode is enable, it stays on if I flip the phone from landscape to portrait mode. The "full screen" button appears for me in both portrait and landscape but it doesn't 'bounce' when tapped in portrait orientation.Regardless, nothing happens when I click in landscape either.

BTDT Check the caulk in the rain gutters above the door. Another place common for leaks is the cowl where it comes down inside each side of the cab. There are rubber spouts (drains) at the back of the front wheel wells that get clogged with leaves and other debris that turns to muck and rusts through into the cab I think drilling a drain hole is far better than having water sit in there. (Gary will remember my photos showing the bright blue kiddie pool through the holes I made) The rockers are open to the inside. Water can't get trapped. Edit: found it!

Not sure. When I touch the little expand (bracket) icon in the lower right the icon responds like normal, but nothing happens with the size of the imbedded video. :nabble_anim_confused:

It plays just fine but I can't get it to go full screen, and the hamburger menu and Bullnose truck logo drop down from the top. Which isn't so bad in portrait but kills 1/3 of my screen in landscape. Which means there's no possibility of seeing the whole of the imbedded video when sideways.