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You can find a universal boot, but when a Moog ds1069 is under $56 delivered tomorrow Prime it's hard not to just replace it.while the box is new.

Really interesting, Pete! Subscribed so i can follow along.

I saw this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1287129-1991-super-duty-rear-gas-tank.html talking about a '91 bucket truck with some dimensions for the aft of axle tank. I'm not sure that the tank is the same (certainly not with a F0TA engineering number) but the distance between rails has been a standard as long as I've been alive. And being designed for a '90 the bung should be correct for '85 on.

I've never seen a metal tank in one of these commercial chassis trucks. (that's not to say there never was one, I certainly learn something new every day) That's why I've tagged Ralph, our resident long time counter monkey, to see what he has to say. The 450 I dismembered definitely had a plastic mid-ship tank (I was standing on it!) but that was a '90's welding truck. You can see the callout for 160"(?) WB with that tank. I'd suspect the 6 port switch valve failed and it wasn't worth the nearly $400 Ford wanted for them to bother replacing it. Like I said if you buy the right kit (electrically correct) you can find the Pollak valve on eBay for under $80 delivered. You need to use the included pigtail and remove the plastic 'duckbill' style fuel line connectors, but they don't fail in my experience

If your fuel gauge and oil pressure work you don't have any problem with the Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator. You can check for continuity through the gauge in the trace on the mylar circuit board and you can check continuity on the wire to the sender by grounding the little right angle connector to the engine, then checking for continuity to ground from the big multi circuit plug that goes into the back of the cluster.

The section (A) above shows the rear tank and calls it out as 19 gallons. Like has been said it's right close to the pumpkin. They say "do not scale" but it's obvious that it fits between the flanges of the 34" frame. Maybe "for dimensions not shown see page B44"? We already know that the commercial chassis tank is 15.7" tall to the rollover valve.

Obviously not... The notations in the drawing suggest that those pages would show details or another view.

Looking above, Ford call the 19 gallon aft of axle tank 'auxillary' and I would think to have a look at pgs B68 & B69

Your repair looks great Shaun! I can only say that the poly bushings don't compress the same as rubber, so if you want the body line to match the bed you better change them all.

Ford used to sell these things as a complete assembly, pre-bled because the service bay doesn't have time to screw around with bleeding. Getting that tangled mess installed is no fun either. We joked that they must have assembled it at the bottom of it pool of brake fluid. If there was only a bleed nipple you could fill it backward like Bill suggested. What did they save, $.05?

Where do we begin to find the proper tank numbers for narrow chassis trucks? Honestly i thought they were all polypropylene tanks. Maybe Ralph knows?

If the truck frame is 34" outside (per the drawing) then there's no way your 34 3/4" wide tank is going to fit inside the channels. This is why I say the C&C trucks must have a unique part number for the aft of axle tank. (I think we've found another faux pas in the factory documentation 💡)

If you look above, the spring centerline (L) on commercial chassis trucks is 40.24/5" The springs are 2 1/2" wide instead of 3" wide pickup springs. Edit: a 37.5" wide hitch will not fit a 34" frame....

I'm used to wreckers, flatbeds and the F-450 i parted out for Gary & Bill. How much wheelbase do you have to work with? You can see the really big midship polypropylene auxiliary tank in the diagram above. Might this work for you? I realize that involves a tank Selector but the 6 port Pollak valve kit was about $75 last i checked on eBay and is 100% reliable

Mayby because the F26D is too 'wide'* (long front to back) for a Bronco chassis with a 104.7" wheelbase? Also note that "chassis cab" AKA bed delete is NOT the same as the heavy duty Cab & Chassis.... If you look at the plans of those trucks you will see that all of them are straight rail.(they continue straight after the cab) Plus the notes everywhere that 350 DRW chassis cab are not available in 4x4. While the only way to get a 4x4 250/350 dually back then was with the narrower frame (for mason's dumps and the like) Yes, I know this is a 4x2 truck but that utility/bucket body is on a narrow frame. Here you can see the Heavy Duty where the frame narrows right behind the cab. 864-150=714mm or 28.11" between the rails on a heavy duty Cab & Chassis truck.

Seems to me that the bed bolts are 33.70" (856mm) on center and 35.04 (890mm) is the distance between bumper brackets or something Maybe 33.70 is supposed the distance between frame members and the drawing really sucks? Maybe I can't read a drawing on my phone? I'm sure you have a better handle on this than I do.

Didn't we go through the whole Bronco sender bung thing with Chad a couple of months ago? 🤷 Is it for a '90's FSB that has FDM's? Because otherwise the documentation is wrong..... The stock Bronco tank is shorter front to back than a truck tank

Maybe I'm delirious? I swear i could barely get my new tank in when i replaced it back around Halloween. Perhaps the flanges are narrower on the C&C trucks and the space between rails is similar to pickups? I know axles don't interchange because the spring perches are closer together. The 32 gallon Bronco tanks are shorter front to back and really need a piece of angle to support the bash plate if you try to use them in a pickup. At any rate Haystack needs a tank with the 3 5/8 bung for his sender so the Bronco tank is out. And he wants a fill neck with the ring to support the vent tube so that means the F26-A and -E are out.

I know the rear frame and springs are narrower. *They came with Dana or Sterling as shown on the next page... I'm just trying to point out that there is a unique part # for the C&C trucks and i don't think there's any chance that the 38G pickup tank will fit. Those Spectra #s are for variations (small bung pre '85, big bung with inner vent retaining ring '85&86, and '87 up with the bigger bung but set for fill through the center and vent around the outside, no ring) These trucks don't have any slave bleeder. There's just an Allen set screw and the fluid pees out the end of the plastic slave. (Akebono used to sell a metal slave with an actual bleed nipple, but i haven't seen one of those in a decade) I have one, and just fed a hose back up into the reservoir. Pump in a loop and you eventually get some pedal (enough to drive it and shake the bubbles loose) Gary didn't believe me either, until he tried it.

Do you need the vent on top? If this truck is as butchered as you say I doubt the charcoal canister is hooked up anyhow. I cannot say I've installed a deep tank on a straight frame truck. Edit: the C&C trucks have a unique rear tank for '85-86 E5TZ 9002-E Bleeding the hydraulic clutch is a challenge. My best advice is to drive it on a rough road and the vibration will shake the bubbles up to the reservoir. (I know this sounds weird but you have to have faith)

You've put a lot of thought into Big Blue. Some iterations (to make the wife comfortable or the truck more future proof) are inevitable. Another ship of thesus* sets sail! 🚢 Damn autocorrect!

Tell that to these two. Sure tasted good! That's one fine view! I bet it gets chilly at night.

👿👿👿👿👿

I subscribed to his porting directions. I may be a little aggressive with my die grinder. You should look at some of his old YouTube videos. He and his brother bombing around in giant '70's land yachts. It's a hoot!!!

A suggestion is to run your chain/cable over a spare rim near the stump. Then you're pulling it out, instead of across the ground. It's kind of like having a freestanding snatch block