kramttocs

Ordered the superbrightled one so will see how it works out. It's a tad bit longer than the ge90 but shouldn't cause any fits. Decided to see just how far the light would reach last night. Well it went pretty far but didn't want to go back in so ended up pulling if off, taking it apart, cleaning it, greasing it, and adding some extra tension to it.

$1k now. Didn't see the ad originally but assuming the seized motor was a recent development.

That's what I have always thought and I've always assumed they were essentially clickbait. Although to what end I can't really guess. I figure either they are shady or crazy. Crazy because from the few things I've posted, I don't think anyone reads the comments and follows directions so I can only imagine how many wasted messages they have wanting it for the cover price! As a test I just listed an 86 250 for 25k and it posted fine.

Someone did a custom job on repainting the upper half of the Victorian tu-tone. Sorry, but "lousy" isn't the right word here (regardless of my obvious preference as seen below ). I would be closer, although it's still a clean job, to calling this 34k Bronco out in that regard as the door is straight but the fender slants down. But I will say I am no doubt biased in favor of the slant. This was the truck that I was dead set on using the same style and color scheme on. In the end, I deviated from it a little in style and color (and if I were to do it again I would probably get rid of the factory lower trim for a cleaner look). If I didn't have a tan interior I would have definitely gone with the factory blue exterior. The blue/white is a very sharp combo.

Nice! Don't think I've ever seen those for sale before.

Great idea and offer!

Cheater bar but was just joking about that implying that you can make anything turn with enough leverage. On the bed bolts I removed, the threads above the nuts were gone via rust so there was no point saving them. I was just saying that with the torx, people might have better luck in avoiding the tear out or having to weld anything. I've seen later year replacements that have either torx or allen in them. All for naught though as no one makes them with the oe shoulders so chalk it up to just wishful thinking.

Then you just need a longer extension Yeah, I mean to hold them in order to prevent enlarging the holes in the bed and causing the OE bolts to spin. When taking mine out (even though it was a pnw truck) we welded nuts to the heads after they indicated they weren't coming out without a fight. Enough years in the rust belt and even the torx won't likely help but wouldn't hurt.

I don't think it would look bad at all there. That is where I made another aluminum plate and mounted my onboard battery charger. There are several holes in the uprights to bolt the plate to. Depending upon the thickness of your box you might be able to do the same on the drivers side if you want it less visible (and also less accessible...). That's where a PO had mounted a smaller onboard charger.

If you do decide to change the relay box to have spares, I can highly recommend this one: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46055/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-31S-000-0-ssVEC/ I am currently using it for: High Low Choke Blower motor Rear view camera (not really needed to be on a relay but prefer it this way) Fog lights Can't say it looks like stock though with the colored terminals.

I did wish someone offered the OE bolts but with the torx in the head

Haha silver lining! Although my 86 long bed only took the 6 and looks like it changed in 85. Or does the shortbed only have 4? Never been around one.

I got mine off ebay (so hit and miss) in the original sealed Ford bags for about 60 total (6 bolts) after watching for awhile. All that to say that they are out there but depends upon how soon you need them and if you can wait for a deal on them. Here are the numbers if you want to add them to your watchlist: N803020-S40 N803022-S40 n803023-S40 There are a few of them available now although prices are a tad steep on some of them. Check to see if the buyers are the same on them as that will help with shipping if you go that route.

I started out trying to stick with a stock look in this regard also but due to space constraints went in a little different direction. Just for some visual ideas- I made aluminum platforms that use standoffs in the holes you are referring to so nothing new had to be drilled in the truck. Did this for the large fuse block, fused relay ssVEC box, and vacuum canister on the passenger side. Driver side has the large fuse block, duraspark, and a spot for an ssVEC if ever needed. Originally I was going to use the diesel platform but it didn't pan out. I think the later model setup that Gary is using has standoffs so you might be able to use those and make another close to stock looking platform. Or just bolt the stuff right to the fender as another stock look

About .20" Did you see the photo above? One is just thinner at the curve where it would hit the carpet.

Wouldn't be surprised to see them get the asking price on that thing. Really neat.

Good point Jim. I'll pull out a spare underhood lamp and test the contacts to see what's going on. Based on that I'll feel more confident placing an order. Hey Rusty - Love seeing the photos of the dash lights (esp the 56) but let's avoid too many other bulb numbers floating around in this thread since it's specifically for the underhood light. There is a really good thread on dash lights here if you want to share your experience/feedback/results. As more of us go that direction, it's always nice to see what others have used.

Which if that is the real case and the underhood lamp needs the contacts to be + and - that would explain why the ebay leds don't work. Just chatted with a superbrightleds support tech and he confirmed that listing had + and - bottom contacts. Seems to contradict the polarity insensitive part though.

Took a look at this one. It reminded me that I actually bought some BA15D's awhile back to try for this. Cheap, junky ebay ones. They are too long for the underhood light cap to go over but even so they don't light up. Even if I rotate the contacts. I did notice when I looked at a similar ebay listing just now that it shows both bottom contacts are positive and the base is negative. I haven't tested the underhood light to know how it's wired. The link you provided I see it is polarity insensitive but don't see if the contacts are + or +/-. Looking here it has the comment about: Note that as with common 1142/BA15D/GE90 marine bulbs, the 2 bottom contacts are the power and ground, and the base shell is not connected. Not for use with antique automotive applications which use a different wiring configuration. Which if that is the real case and the underhood lamp needs the contacts to be + and - that would explain why the ebay leds don't work.

Thanks a lot Jim. 90 does ring a bell. I'll give that 1142 a shot!

Has anyone switched their underhood bulb to an led? I know I looked awhile back but since it's still a mini heat lamp, I assume I didn't find anything. I think it was a GE 5 or something. I am too attached to my fingerprints to check right now.

Nice! You should video a walkthrough when/if you go back so we can all be jealous

I didn't either - just that the 4spds could have them. Good buy!

For at least one of those sellers, I agree.

Yes, those fastener details are going to be very handy!