kramttocs

Subscribed. Good luck with the offer. I ride a 1990 DR250 for my summer daily commute so interested to see what you get and how you like it.

This is going to be a bit photo heavy but lately I have been primarily working on the "luxury options". Being the keyless entry and the window control. A lot of this was covered here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td48183 Let me preface this post by saying that any time I add something electrical to the truck my goals are: 1. Avoid splicing or cutting into a factory wire 2. Any non-factory change must be easily reverted 3. No additional load can be added to factory wiring except relay triggers I probably sound like a broken record at this point... Often these cause extra steps (and always extra time) so I fully acknowledge that in a lot of cases you could just splice into the factory wiring and move on with life Ok, on to the meat of it (again, some will be repeated from the referenced thread that has some great Gary diagrams). For the keyless entry module I went with the Viper 211HV due to name, forum support(ish), simplicity of the fob, and simplicity of the unit as a whole. I haven't done any research but you can likely get a dozen different makes/models that all accomplish the same thing. The primary functions are what you'd expect: lock/unlock, honk horn, and flash lights Some additional features are 2 aux outputs, ignition controlled lock/unlock, and ground when armed For mounting I chose to use some 3M black velcro hanging strips and place it up on the firewall directly under the antenna penetration. FWIW this is also how I mounted the component crossovers on the angled part above each kickpanel This location works well as it gives you nice access to the passenger kickpanel as well as there being plenty of room for the myriad of wires that you could end up with. To hook into the lock circuit I created a jumper that goes between the passenger kick panel connector that connects the main lock/window harness to the passenger door harness. It's a fairly bulky jumper but it all fits into the cavity easily This is the equivalent of splicing the keyless entry wiring into the Pk/Y and Pk/LG wires of the lock circuit. For power, rather than using the hot wire of the power lock circuit, which would work, I ran a fused 10awg wire from my add on fuse box that I split into 4 12awg wires going into a metripack connector. That connector will provide power for: 1. keyless entry module 2. locks 3. dome light (the keyless entry module needs to know if it is a + or - circuit) 4. window automation module/+12v for window motors I did the same thing for the grounds. For the dome light that lights up when you unlock the truck I removed the terminal from the connector on the passenger footwell light and crimped a new larger gauge terminal onto it with both the factory wire and the keyless entry dome wire For the parking lights to flash for confirmation or panic mode, the easiest and cleanest place to hook into is the drivers side kick panel where there will be a connector for the cab clearance lights. Since a PO had scotch locked into this wire and it split in half when removed, I had already had to add a metripack connection. In order to add the keyless entry wire I put both the main harness wire and the clearance lights wire in one metripack connector and in the mating connector I put the keyless entry wire and a loop to bridge the circuits. The reason for putting the factory wires on the same connector is that a 2 circuit MP connector also works for a fuse holder so if needed, I can remove the male connector, throw a fuse in the female and my clearance lights still work. For the horn and ignition circuits, please see the earlier thread link. On the ignition part, since I am using a previously unused connector under the dash it's worth mentioning that it's the same connector as the one in the B pillar for the dome/cargo light harness. A spare one of those, a wedgelock terminal and you've got a clean connection for 12v in start/run. It's configurable and I am still on the fence but with the ignition circuit connected the doors lock when in start/run and unlock when the power is killed (like a modern vehicle would). I mentioned the ground when armed option earlier. This is commonly used as a starter kill switch. I have what I consider a good setup for this but rather than announcing it on a public forum, for all of our benefit it may make more sense to keep it offline. If you are interested in how I went about it, feel free to contact me directly. Moving on to the 2 aux outputs. I am only using one of them currently and that is for the window automation module (535T). I think the one tap up/down in modern vehicles is great and that is primarily what this gives you. Additionally it provides the ability to roll up the windows when the keyless entry module is locked (using the ground when armed circuit and a diode) and to use an aux channel to vent or roll down the windows. Both are pretty nice albeit not entirely necessary. I mounted this the same way as the keyless entry and just to the left of it. Here begins the myriad of wires. To tie this module in, I created a simple jumper for each door to go between the window motor connector. This is splitting the wires between motor side and switch side as the switch side is now just a relay trigger. The power to the motors will be coming through the 10awg wire mentioned earlier I got some of the terminals used by the 535T and the Viper 211HV (molex and jst) so I could remove the jumper wires they provided and use my own wires to eliminate some unnecessary connectors. Removing the jst type is easy but molex's are a pain - at least without the removal tool. I didn't want to spend the money on one but found that removing the plastic from each end of a twist tie (bread tie) and then looping it worked pretty well. Since a lot of the wiring had to go to the drivers side or to the battery (fuse block) the dash harness retainers have room for them and keep it all tidy. Cleaned up and wrapped Anything needing to go through the firewall I ran down the left side of the radio and out through the hole to the right of the gas pedal with the rest of my add on wiring. Adding these two modules was really pretty straightforward; it was just all the details of doing it that took quite awhile. Happy to provide more detail on any aspect of it if needed. I am hoping to put together a concise guide for this combining the info from the other thread and this one.

Well, maybe snatch the full diesel set up and try to put it in the gasser? Or will it not interface. I think your right, the battery is the way to go. I would but this tray in a heart beat but it is useless without the support I forget when I posted earlier but the diesel tray did strike me as being a little longer but that shouldn't impact the core support bracket and it might still swap direct - all depends upon if the core support upright is the same distance to the fender. I am near my parts trucks this weekend and am looking for a couple parts for another guy so will compare a diesel to a gas aux truck.

That has been my guess. I didn't measure the 35yo factory ones against the poly before installing them but I know the poly were a LOT harder. They also didn't seem to compress at all when torquing them down (again, didn't take any measurements). No complaints in the ride factor though.

Full equivalent sizes may help if looking for similar none oem bolts N803020-S40 == M12 X 1.75 X 76.2 Carriage N803022-S40 == M12 X 1.75 X 88.9 Carriage N803023-S40 == M12 X 1.75 X 108 Carriage One would think if you can find bolts of at least this length or longer you should be ok Just have extra thread, but I could be wrong. Definitely go a little longer if not going stock. Had to raise the bed a little for body lines after installing poly bushings and the stock bolts weren't any too long.

Nice job on the radio! Gary is right that if going from mono to stereo will be a huge improvement. Downside is having to drill the door jam holes but at least dimples are there. Again, that's all if you don't have them already.

Forgot my tape so didn't take measurements in the jy but eyeballing it, the diesel setup looks identical with the only exception being how the reservoir hooks on.

Those buckets look great! I'd definitely swap also.

Touche. It's about as [not] relevant to your truck as the 4wd, but on my 2wd one ton dually I have Monroe gas magnums up front and nothing in the rears as it didn't come with them. Empty it rides worse than you can imagine.

I have ranchos and have no complaints. It was between them and the Bilsteins.

Just because, "house battery" as part of an auxillary set up much like Kramttocs has done. I can probably find a way to relocate a battery somewhere else or just not use it, same could be said of the tool box. I do like the idea of either it may end up just being whichever one I can get a hold of first. I am swapping in the EFI engine so I will have a larger alternator and the set up out of that as well to deal with. I really like having the secondary battery. I would lean towards a nice custom behind the seat toolbox/speaker setup and do the factory aux battery setup but that's just me. I like the idea of the engine toolbox and it's definitely up there on the neat factor but I would want more dividers/compartments for organization. I just noticed in the diagram that the core to hold down bracket for the gas aux is different than those I've seen. The one that came on my parts truck (with the aux setup) was more like the primary battery style just angled a little differently. It looks like the diesel one in the diagram so maybe this one was swapped out but it would have been really early in the truck's life. I am hoping to swing by the jy in the a.m. so I can see if there are any gas aux lower brackets and also take a look at the diesel one I pulled a few months ago but left.

I found the one online and it does have a notched area that the 80-86 ones don't but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't fit. If you want one from an 86 you can have the one pictured for shipping. Edit: just saw your location. Never shipped there so no idea on the process or cost but happy to help.

Yes, nice work! Gary, I believe he is talking about this piece:

Regarding the 460, here is the factory hold down clip: It's offset due to the retaining ring on the crossover tube. Here is what I made before I pulled the 460 in the 86 and plugged it with the plug. Nothing groundbreaking but it works and isn't terrible to install all things considered. I installed some on my 85 1 ton and never had any leaking. On these I welded on washers to ensure the plate was over the hole and didn't twist when tightening down as I ran into that on the 85 and smeared the gasket maker.

What about taking the setup from a diesel? I was considering doing that but never got past the considering stage so don't know how the core support brackets differ.

You aren't really missing much.

No, you were good - his is a 351 and Gary's diagram is applicable. It was my fault for hijacking it with the 460 question.

I was hoping the 460 is threaded. Jim's correct :( When I get home I can post a picture of what I was going to use for an in-truck solution before I ended up pulling the motor.

I've always been curious on this when I see people reference putting plugs in the head holes. Was it all of them except the 460 that were threaded?

Dropped it at the post office this morning. You can just Haley Joel Osment the shipping

I really like the door panels! Great combo (color and design). The dash seller should really remove the bronco text to avoid a return hassle for a buyer that isn't aware of the light/medium truck differences. A nice piece though.

Like Cory I have 6.5's in mine with the BoomMats. Previous owner had installed the same size so he took care of drilling the screw holes for me. Definitely recommend the baffles. My door panels (xlt lariat) already have a piece of fabric behind the slots that hide the speaker. So if yours don't, you could easily add them.

Same here. They 'just work' for the most part. Wonder if you could replace the display with a modern one and rewire the buttons?

Trouble sleeping so went back to the evtm and excited to test this out tomorrow afternoon but I think C327 is the answer to Hot in Start and Run.

I just didn't explain myself at all is the problem so glad you pointed it out. The relay is ground triggered. A fused hot going to the coil and the source (30 and 86) The ground Horn output from the Viper going to the other side of the coil (85) Wire going from the output to the new branch in the jumper I made (87) - i.e 12v going to horn ------------------------ We talked about the hot in start and run earlier in the thread and that the long, vertical R/LG on the right was a candidate and wouldn't be engine specific. That won't give the full 12v in Run though, right? I plan on using a relay to give the security module 12v from the battery, but the drop in Run voltage would make pulling in the relay iffy?