kramttocs

I went with the one wire on my rebuild and love it. Physically it may be slightly different as it's marketed as a 'Ford Upgrade' but same difference. I would highly recommend the Rocketman gauge conversion. It is nice to know that the alt has kicked in. It has only happened once during tuning the motor but it didn't hit the rpm threshold and the alt didn't kick in till I gave it a bump. Something that will normally happen in daily use amyways. I would also consider getting a spare alt harness that you cut up. That way if ever needed, you can easily swap back. Here is the diagram of mine although the fuse portion changed somewhat as seen here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p48433.html Keep us updated!

Did they say there would be chips or are you contacting them?

Boy, there are not cheap: https://www.ebay.com/i/293492688928?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293492688928&targetid=4581046486094194&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=395665087&mkgroupid=1239149814203389&rlsatarget=pla-4581046486094194&abcId=1129776&merchantid=51291&msclkid=6548d467ef511833f6a08a8c2cdb03ac https://www.ebay.com/i/293079525218?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293079525218&targetid=4581046486094194&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=395665087&mkgroupid=1239149814203389&rlsatarget=pla-4581046486094194&abcId=1129776&merchantid=51291&msclkid=289ffdf26ff010e48641a319ac7ab736 No joke! There's a reason I was crawling under jy trucks looking for some spares and trying to learn how to take them off non-destructively

I actually tried to find the E3 but everything showed the E9 interchange so I used it but you are correct - unless replaced at some point, people should have the E3. These will be more great pages to have on the doc site.

I was hoping that was the case and I can actually help with that one :) Yes, in 86 they changed the vss. I looked at a handful of 86 F250 4wd's and they all were like this but can't make the claim for applications outside of that. It is a single long cable that goes from the dash cluster to right at the tcase. Between the cable and the actual hole in the tcase is the vss. It can be removed with a clip although some jy ones were definitely easier than others. Just did a quick look in the shop and am not finding the one I took apart as a test but I am pretty sure it's E9TZ-9E731-A Not a great photo but here it is on Camano. In this case it goes into an adapter for the gvod vs straight into the tcase.

Great update Dave! Gary - which part of the chart? I can't say I have the answer but did some research on this when installing the GVOD.

My neighbor uses the fixed. I also checked with the shop that tested the condenser. They said they have nothing but issues with the vov. I like the idea of the vov but I'll stick with the fixed.

You're right - I did talk it up a bit for just being vacuum lines. I ran to the jy and cut a few of the black/white stripe recirc door lines. Surprising how the vast majority were broke off at the diaphragm. I used a Dorman 47415 soft tee to connect them. It's made for smaller lines but it worked well and no concern about them falling out. Still no a/c system but looking forward to doing a vent temperature test with and without the valve.

I am sure I'd somehow drill up and miss the stake pocket so coming from the taillights is promising. I am sold. After seeing how bright your hood lights are I agree that just the back half would be plenty. But if that's plenty then having them full length is even 'more plenty'! (Insert Tim the Toolman grunt)

Would you be okay with Gary adding some of your pics and descriptions to the how-to I wrote, specifically the ones showing how you replaced the retaining ring since I wasn't able to show that part? I would like to see you get credit for your contribution as well since it is very detailed. No need for any credit at all. Feel free to absorb them into your guide - thanks a lot for putting that together.

So anyone have an answer on this? What does the AC guy next door say? AC is the next project on my truck and have wondered on the valves. If one is good then the other must be better no? Dave ---- I will shoot him a text now. I did some looking online and it seemed like a lot preferred the fixed one over the VOV for the simplicity of it and mantra of fewer moving parts.

I swapped the cable from a non-locking one to my locking one here since the non-locking cable was in good shape. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p46162.html

I do too. Can the stake pockets be accessed from underneath as a routing path? I can look later but haven't ever needed to before.

Nice job Jim! That really lights it up.

Haha I didn't realize that.

You're right - I meant to look up the name and give credit but forgot. Updated it now. Located in Southwest Missouri. Truck is a Supercab.

Getting ready to install the a/c components back in the 86 Supercab. Left them off for awhile so I didn't have to work around them Everything was hooked up when I got the truck but I never tried the 86 and I only had it during the winter before I took it apart. I believe the PO said it needed charged. I had the evaporator tested before reinstall and it checked out. Installed a new core and a new accumulator The accumulator is installed but is using the old oring since I just needed to get it installed to ensure my heater core shut off valve cleared it. I have ordered the MT2526 oring kit. Currently- The evaporator is installed with the tubes plugged The core is installed with the bottom tube plugged The accumulator is temporarily hooked to the core top tube. The curved port on the accumulator and the valve nipple are plugged I found some info from Archion on FTE stating: .On the orifice tube, you would want a red tube for a standard cab, and an orange tube for an extended cab/crew cab. If you live in an extremely hot area, I would recommend the VOV, variable orifice valve, it automatically adjusts according to the needs placed on the system, but is not really needed unless your in a more extreme climate. To adjust the cutoff pressure you use the small straight slot screw between the contacts on the switch., the one on the accumulator. Here is some info on the tubes, color, orifice size tolerance and Four Seasons part #. Blue - .0655-.0685 - FS Part # 38621 Red - .0605-.0655 - FS Part # 38635 Orange - .056-.059 - FS Part # 38639 VOV - for under 105 degree averages - FS Part # 38902 VOV - for over 105 degree averages - FS Part # 38904 Any reason to not go with the VOV 38902 over the orange 38639? I haven't ever worked with a/c so any advice is welcomed. My neighbor has done vehicle a/c repair for years and is going to help but I'd like to had a good idea going in. Right now I don't know what questions to ask on here to ensure I am prepared to take the truck to him. Can I install everything or do I need to leave some things undone?

Looking good! Rob - that's one difference between the AA and the GVOD. Pros and cons with both but purely from an install perspective the GVOD is the easier. Really glad you are detailing the steps Dave - this will come in handy for a lot of others that are looking for an aux od.

Unless you are planning to do a matching numbers type restore and try to reach that portion of the market, I can't imagine it would hurt the value. To me, if it makes it more fun and more reliable than it would increase the value in my eyes. Good question in the Explorer trim. I've seen a few beds around here with the emblem but haven't ever really looked into what it offered vs non. It sounds like a Marti report might be right up your alley. I've never got one so don't know how well they cover our trucks but might be worth a call to see if it's worth paying for. Edit: just saw Corey's post and he makes a good point on the 300 fans. That's where different tastes come in I guess. I am a fan of well done, justified improvements vs keeping something purely stock. Well done being key. But that's me and what I put a value on.

48 sounds smart. I wouldn't bother with the width adjustability of the main legs. Just add some outriggers that are adjustable. Less awkward to try and move.

Welcome! It's a sharp looking truck for sure. Fan of the paint and stripe colors. As far as value, aside from the Explorer badging it's pretty limited on options as was mentioned. That will impact the potential buyers wanting to pay a premium. Here in the Midwest, the lack of rust is the strongest selling point. I agree with the $2500 range as a general average. I would expect it to sell for 2 around here but that's just based on the kind of trucks that people around here look for and is region specific. I don't see many around here without rust so that would be a nice, fun daily driver to take pride in. These trucks just aren't up to the high dollar collectable status yet. Blame it on them being so well made they are still on the road going strong

I agree -the H style is the only solution to this I know of. Interestingly I've seen a number of homemade H ones(usually with tongues and and axle) but don't think I've seen any manufactured ones.

I don't have a solution but had to deal with this also. My cherry picker is an old Carolina 3 ton unit that when extended (both legs and boom) is easily wide enough for the HD stand to fit into but none of that matters when the extended legs can't get past the tires of the truck (and straddling one wheel sideways doesn't work either). Once I had the truck rolled away I lowered the engine onto a couple of tires to take the pressure off the picker. That allowed me to extend the legs and boom far enough to clear the stand. Someone may have to draw what is being proposed with modifying the stand via wheels or blocks. I am not picturing how that wouldn't compromise safety but my mental image may be all wrong for what you guys are thinking. I just know that in order to clear the legs of my picker the stand would have to have huge wheels on it. I haven't compared the legs of mine vs any others to know what the normal height is. Edit: cleared up my statement of safety concern

That 4 port looks good - much more compact than I was picturing. Installed mine tonight but still need to build the vacuum line getup.

Clever!