kramttocs

You should have a blank plug there although a PO may have poked holes in it for add on wiring (very common). I referenced this grommet here but now realized I don't think I threw it in the last package Once cleaned out, they work great for getting wiring to either fender. Have to lean way over the engine but there are places to clamp them out of the way (spent a lot of time doing this the past couple of days). http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p81778.html

If I recall correctly it saddles up with the speed control amplifier.

Just adding for my own reference: Backup circuit: Purple/Orange (before switch) - 20awg LH Turn/Stop: Light Green/Orange - 18awg RH Turn/Stop: Orange/Light Blue- 18awg

Running lights (at least in 86)

Welcome! Glad you joined

So in yours (and later years?) the trailer turn signals are also on a separate load circuit from the truck signals? Edit: just saw the diagram on the previous page showing this so I'd missed the inclusion of turn signals into the backup lamp discussion

Saying Gary needs one of these?

That's nice Bill! The trailer backup circuit definitely seems like an afterthought or a "no one will use this" type thing. And I don't see many trailers with backup lamps so was probably a safe bet.

Yes - hate to hear about that frustrating experience and being out the return cost. I think you'll be happy with the peel and stick option though.

Hey Gary, Unfortunately it will have to be the BK/PK wire at or after the tranny. Could splice into that wire (or make a jumper between C128) or since we have the trailer wiring it could be done at the rear crossmember using that trailer connector and a little rewiring back there. I am leaning towards the latter since I don't care for the light gauge BK/PK being used to try and power who knows what could be on the trailer anyways. So my thought is to remove the trailer bk/pk from the 7pin harness, run it to the switch, then from the relay run the heavier gauge wire to be used for both the aux backup lights and the trailer backup. With your 20A switch you wouldn't need a fuse before the switch but for my 2A one I will. Just my thoughts.

How are you hooking into the backup circuit for the 'on with reverse' position? I can only think of two options we have with pros/cons to both. Not a big circuit so pretty limited.

Thanks Staci. I think it is just rust. The mason jar has been sitting for a couple days and everything brown is at the bottom and the top is nice and green. I ordered some cleaner so once I get all my wiring changes buttoned up, I'll do a few flush cycles. Will check the plugs during that process as well.

Meaning also running larger wiring into the cab vs using the clock wiring? What about just standalone relays in that vicinity that you can swap the wires into the pdb later?

Looks like 3 unique options with 2 being common and 1 being the extra in the tilt wheel.

Looks like just lower unless someone mixed them. I can't recall now if my grommet was good and I reused it or if I picked a new one up.

If rebuilding your steering column - these are one of the items that you might as well replace while you're in there. My old ones weren't bad but compared to the nos ones I picked up, they were noticeably less smooth.

Typo on my part - I was picturing mirrors though With Zoro(another typo) they usually have free shipping over 75 as well as a percentage off coupon if you leave something in your cart for a bit. Haven't compared prices either.

On a headliner truck the two offshoots on the end opposite the 'sharp' V will both have tabs for screws as both of the offshoots will go under trim. Well, they should have tabs although the over the door tab doesn't survive well. On a non-headliner truck the offshoot that goes over the door will be more rounded and will have an exposed screw hole in it. Seen from the back in photo 5 of this listing. Here's another photo from my 80: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Headliner-A-pillar-trim-tp50710p50849.html This is a good buy for someone looking as for some reason I have seen very, very few of the passenger side that doesn't have a crack at that visible screw hole.

My 80 has those rubber hoses but like you, I'd assumed they had been replaced by a PO.

I typically get my wire from ac/dc wire and supply via ebay. They have some really good packages available. They don't carry 10awg txl though so I get that through CE Auto Electric Supply. Shrink tubing I usually get via amazon or ebay. Have used a few different sellers and haven't noticed any difference beside shades of red. For the magnalugs I use Zorro. I just checked out the Great Lakes Skipper site and I see being Marine that they have the tinned wire but I didn't see anything smaller than 6awg. Maybe I was just in the wrong section though. The power window might do it! That's will be something fun to research. There is a very good chance that the lights may be too "busy" for my preference and will get used somewhere else

Looks great! What is that thing tucked behind the speed control unit?

This red one would be non-headliner and looks to be in really good condition

Yeah, a few sizes of shrink tubing since I was starting to run low. Just noticed the red looks pink in the photo. This is for the 86, 80, equipment trailer, and a gooseneck cattle trailer. Have enough drive time in the 86 to realize things I want to change with the add-on wiring. Picked up a set of PIAA lights of the same series as my driving lights so going to add some backup aux lights as long as I can make it look good. Would be neat to find a way to make them pivot with power so they aren't seen at all unless needed. But will post more on those changes in the project thread. Primarily I am adding that circuit to better handle the led backup lights I added to the equipment trailer. Not a lot of added amps but it's a long distance and the stock reverse circuit wasn't made for it. The 80 is getting the headlight mod, need to finish up the lights on the equipment trailer, and the gooseneck is long overdue for a rewire and led update.

The thumb tack sure beats it being ripped off and constantly having the dried foam rain down. Let us know how it works out and what kit or materials you use.

Yes - it is great to have a knowledgeable sounding board like we do here. I remove and drained the reservoir into a mason jar. Was brown at first but overnight it all settled so is back to green with a layer of brown at the bottom. Honestly if the radiator wasn't new I'd probably assume a dirt dauber got into it. That's what it looks like. I've decided that since I have to replace the heater core anyways I am going to bypass it, and do a few flush cycles. If after that, I still have concerns I'll buy one of the testers we talked about. I was looking at heater hoses although mine are new with the rebuild. Seems like everyone is big on the Gates Green Stripe. Not cheap though and has a larger OD. Anyone have an opinion or do most just use whatever the parts counter gives you?