kramttocs

Also the Blower Relay and the alternator changes are separate circuits/harnesses so you don't have to necessarily make plans for the Blower Relay at the same time. It has the benefit of being in a great location for a relay to be added. On the choke relay, they really do make that tough to find from the evtm. At least we know it's between the Fender Mounted Relay (Fuse Link AX) and the choke Speaking of relays, I agree with Gary and Jim's recommendation to use a relay with the voltmeter despite me not doing so. When time and weather permits I am going to run a test comparing both positions. The problem is that this is highly dependent upon the tester's truck. In my case I have the blower relay, headlight relay, power window relay, leds, etc so the results of my test won't be at all representative of a stock truck. The voltmeter relay on the other hand would be consistent across the board for users.

Can you identify the color/colors of it?

Looks like it was likely cached - on a different computer at the moment and it is showing

Welcome! Look forward to seeing some photos. Neat that even if not the same truck, it still brings back those memories

Somehow I was thinking that we needed both pages in one view, but if we can assume that the firewall grommet is the break between pages 17 and 18 of the 1985 EVTM then we'd have something we could put on each page. Is that a reasonable assumption? Is there any way you can confirm that? Looking at the evtm and looking at the harness, that is accurate. What isn't accurate is in the 86 they show the splice locations and they have S101, 102, and 103 "Near fuel tank selector switch Taped Over". I do like the single page view but agree that it isn't needed for the measurements based on what we know so far.

Personally I'm not sure I like all the advertising, but do like the fact that the page won't go away since we have it saved. Your thoughts? If they come back in an agreeable fashion I'd ask if they'd be ok with removing the ads and all the extra. Still have a link to their page and a copy of their consent (if given) but not be a direct copy of their page. I could access it via the spreadsheet but am not seeing the second navigation option.

I think having the lengths in the evtm would be great! I've started writing gauges down in mine as well. I am about to the point where I can get rid of this harness anyways so what I'll do is start pulling it apart and getting accurate measurements.

Missed that as well. Jim has a good eye! Was curious so did some measurements of the yellow wire on my spare harness at lunch. Not sure anything will help in this thread but if there is something I can provide from this as it is all un-taped and easily accessible, let me know. Very rough/ballpark measurements: From C610 to the passenger side firewall grommet = 3' Grommet to splice S208 = 6' S208 to ign switch = 2' 4" Splice to fuse box = 1' 8" Splice to Aux Battery C232 - 2' 6"

Adding this for my own reference since it was discussed in another thread and I found the info for my voltmeter conversion: 14.8 @ 3/4 setting. ~13.5 @ 1/2 and 12 @ 1/4 so probably about 12.7 @ 3/8. Alt output as tested by Powermaster = 98 idle. 157 at speed.

Curious to hear how the Thermocure works out, and I'm curious about that 90* petcock...is it like this? https://www.cjponyparts.com/radiator-drain-petcock-f-100-1948-1979/p/HW4035/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmL-ABhDFARIsAKywVacCvI3Tod3cETOYOvWFISMnanX640uNYMFL7EGQlKdQ_tpYOYgQkPwaAil7EALw_wcB I need to drain/flush my 300 at least once, probably a couple times. A lot like that. I ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYLXUI2?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image I didn't come across the ponyparts one the other day or no doubt would have gone with that design. Thinking about it now though - if I was keeping a hose on there but tucked away, I'd opt for the barb. Since I plan on only putting the hose on when draining, the smooth may be easier to take on/off. Probably 6 one way, half dozen the other. The thermocure seemed to be highly reviewed so figured worth a shot. I'll need to check the forecast and plan out some drives. Maybe unbranded is a better term for the radiator. I just didn't want to call it a Champion when it came in a generic box. I've looked at their 'knockoff vs original' page and the only difference is the cap so I really do think they came from the same factory but again, didn't want to misrepresent. Looking forward to seeing the lights in action. Hooked them up to a battery on the workbench and they definitely have a far out focused beam. Would have much rather had the fogs but since I am only planning to use them when a need arises, any extra light will be better than none. Have you already identified which lights you are going with for yours? I've been tossing up wiring ideas that change daily so you should prioritize that project on BB

As long as that's "allowed" I think that would be great. An article with photos like that should be saved and where better to save it than here?

That is neat and even in b/w that Bronco is stunning. Maybe more so. Kept going through the photos waiting to see 2 Marchal lights, then one, then none

Welcome aboard Richard. My questions would be: Have you verified your speed at 69 MPH? Are you going by the Bullnose speedo or GPS, or other? Have you verified the actual height or OD of the 31" tires? Often times 31" tires are more like 30" or 30.5" OD installed. If by chance your speedo is off by a few MPH...you would only have to hit about 72 MPH to be at almost 3000 RPM. Somebody can correct me on this, but I don't think that Broncos came with 31" tires until later on it in the 80's, like 1989 or so. Welcome!

Missed that as well. Jim has a good eye!

Thanks a lot Bruce! I like that style. I've bookmarked those in case the spring style doesn't work out. As for progress- My new heater core came in as well as the Thermocure. I am still waiting on the 90 degree radiator drain adapter/petcock. The petcock that came with my (knockoff) Champion radiator makes an absolute mess and since I will be flushing it a number of times to remove the rust, I don't want to deal with trying to hold a hose up to it each time. Additionally, my aux backup lights came in. These are driving lights vs fog lights but looks played into it a lot and PIAA didn't make Series 40 Fog lights in this style. Front series 40 driving lights that came with the truck: Rear series 40 driving lights: The plan is to mount them in existing holes in the bumper "step" piece. They are mostly protected by the hitch and aren't inline with the tires so rock damage should be minimal but will have to keep an eye on them for awhile. A lot of my time lately has been rewiring my relay boxes so once I cleanup my diagrams I'll post those changes.

Jim - I am not following either. If you unplug C610 but don't cut anything (cab side?) then you've just got an unhooked connector and no cab power, etc. The diagram you have Gary with the red lines gets my vote for reasons I mentioned earlier.

Ok, I see and that was actually how I had it originally laid out back before the rebuild started: Since the two wires are going to an isolated fuse in my ssVEC it would be easy to plug them into relay terminals instead. So far my voltmeter has stayed pretty constant but I'll see about adding all the load I can and testing the difference. My suggestion in the official doc would be recommending the relay. While all the add-on voltmeters I've used (cheap) just hook into a key-on circuit we might as well go with the unquestionably accurate approach. I didn't realize the HO had it this way. Don't think I've ever looked at those diagrams.

Yes to the first but how so to the second? In Start it goes through a resistance wire but in run it's full 12v. Granted, as Gary said, it take a circuitous route through the ignition switch.

You're right, even though I put arrows I wasn't thinking directional from positive. I've updated the post although the Yellow/Battery is still backwards The original reason for the 60A was just a matter of replacing one form of protection with another and not removing any protection. The quick to follow second reason is that it is nice to leave everything hooked up but just remove the fuse to interrupt power to the cab when doing electrical work. I prefer it to having a loose ring terminal. At this stage in the rebuild, disconnecting the fuses happens fairly often. It would be interesting to do a voltage comparison. Honestly I don't recall what rocketman set my voltmeter values to so I wouldn't know if it was off

LG/R (part of the fused loop) is Hot In Run.

I would also keep C610 and modify the alt side of it, leaving the cab side alone. This is user preference but would allow changing easily changing back. That may be planning for something that will never happen but one never knows. I picked up another C610 alt side and put my original one in a box. I don't want to distract since mine is a 1-wire vs a 3G but on my modified C610 alt side it is: Yellow -> 60A fuse -> battery LG/R -> 1A fuse -> Red/Orange(so a loop) Yellow/Light Green -> Ground *I have a converted voltmeter*

Bill - on a related topic, you don't have a part number for the fuse box terminals do you? I know BX2091C doesn't work but haven't found any alternatives.

And that's quite the collection you found in there

Hey Tyler - I'd sent James (the guy at Detroit) the gaskets below from a non-AC truck (hi-output technically) back in June but he wanted the case to ensure the ones he makes will fit correctly. I never got around to taking a sawzall to the jy and cutting the gasket mounting surfaces. I can put that on my list but I doubt that will happen or they will get made within the timeframe you need. Sorry about that.

The motor should have a ground stud behind the alternator so if you do want to ground it, you can use that. Was adding an electric choke the other day so just mentioning that my 1G has GRD by a stud near the Field one (maybe to avoid mixing it with the STAtor).