kramttocs

Thanks Chris - that would be good to have for anyone in the future. Are you having yours redone?

Didn't get to work on the 86 today but got a delivery today so I can hit it hard this weekend.

Sounds like another reason for you to get into powder coating I've never attempted to take one of the newer ones apart or googled how to rebuild them but the stock master cylinder is a snap. Apples and oranges perhaps... I haven't used the paint you guys have mentioned but have used Eastwoods booster paint and their cast aluminum paint. Happy with both.

Sounds like someone is peeking in the rabbit hole. Can be used as soon as it's cool enough to handle. Yeah....lol! I've gone back and fourth on this. The process is messy and while an oven can be made and affordable, I've got no place in my shop to put it. I know, I'll just take my stuff to Gary's Place.... Definitely depends upon the setup/space you have available or can make available. If not planned out, I could see it being considered messy but it really doesn't take but a couple tarps and it is well contained. And you can do a lot, and I mean a lot, of the parts on these trucks in a normal Craigslist kitchen oven. But going to Gary's sounds like a great plan Speaking of - looking great Gary!

Sounds like someone is peeking in the rabbit hole. Can be used as soon as it's cool enough to handle.

Ya, my thoughts exactly. I looked this morning and I don't have the parts, I must have gotten rid of them when I scrapped the 1980 frame, and when I sold the 1995 cab I think the front cable was still attached to it. Anyway, I'll order the 1995 equalizer and the 1980 adjusting rod so I can run the 1980 front cable with the 1995 rear cables. It will either work or I'll make it work lol. Sounds like a plan to me

I am impressed. That looks really nice.

Thanks David! I've always thought something like this would be neat hanging on a wall. Fully agree with Gary though - would not enjoy having to unlock it at the pump. Especially in winter.

Subscribed. I'd be surprised if you couldn't. At the very least you should be able to use the equalizer from the 95 and the adjusting rod from the 80. Whenever I buy replacement rear cables from the local parts store I never know if I'll get a hex or round ferrule but both have always worked.

Very neat!

Thanks Jim. Don't interpret my comment as being unhappy with the builder - not at all. He came highly recommended and 460's are his cup of tea. Going to be near HF tomorrow so may just wait and pickup a tester there. I got to thinking about the layer in the bottom of the tank. Oil in coolant would always float, right? It's on the bottom of the tank but how would it get into the tank if it wasn't floating to the top in the radiator?

Forgot to add the photo of the reservoir showing the black (grey) stuff towards the top. Couple inches of coolant in there now and if I recall correctly, gets half full when at operating temp.

Rebuilt 460 with 2600 miles on it. Ever since I've had it, I get some white smoke on cold starts but then dissipates. No identifiable sweet smell. No known coolant consumption but haven't taken any reservoir measurements to really watch it closely. After probably 1000-1500 miles I noticed some black flecks/gunk in the reservoir near the top stuck to the sides. Drained the radiator, cleaned the reservoir and refilled. The gunk is back although not as much. Rubbing the sides with my finger as far as it will go, I get this: Rubbing my fingers together it has a rubbery feel. Definitely not slick or lubricating. The coolant is the expected green color. Looking at the bottom of the reservoir I noticed a layer from the outside about 1/8 thick. Took a straw and scraped it through the plug hole: This is more slick than the side wall stuff although one is submerged and the other isn't. Removed the radiator cap and the coolant looked good. Upon tipping the cap to let it drip, the brown stuff (more diluted) dripped from that cup on the bottom of the cap with the rubber seal and got into the filler neck: You can see how besides what dripped in the middle, around the outside is dirty. With no pressure and the cap sealed, this "outside" would be in the same pool as the reservior. Running a rag in the cup area by the cap spring yielded this: Checking the dipstick it looks fine and the oil is the expected color. Truck hasn't moved in a while so everything should be settled. Can drain the oil tonight if needed. Called the builder and he recommended to test the coolant for combustion so I will pick up one of those tests this evening. Otherwise he wasn't concerned but wasn't really expecting him to claim it either. While of course I'd like it to be just leftover from the rebuild, new radiator, new hoses, etc, it doesn't give me that warm feeling. *Edit for spelling

Seen or not, knowing that it was in a big budget film like that is a neat story to have!

Welcome! Film work? Anything publicly available? I believe Gary will have some measurements for you as he did some frame work on his project. If not, there is another member that recently changed the horns that might have them.

That stretch of wiring does not have an easy life. Often entirely embedded in dirt and mud. I agree with Gary - if you can't find one from the jy that's in good/great shape, I'd find some good connectors and make your own harness. Those connectors are generally protected from direct sunlight so you should be able to find some good ones. If not you can find them or some very similar up under the dash. Then get some wedgelock terminals for your new wiring and repin the terminals.

Welcome aboard! Your truck is beautiful

This is great stuff Bill! Do you have some of the terminals you could add photos of just so they are all in the same thread (and Gary's doc)?

Sorry Chris - these photos have been from my 86 which is carpeted + heat/sound deadener. I was around my parts trucks today and crawled under the Supercabs but they both came with benches so don't really help with anything. Regardless of lining up with the steering wheel, I see no reason not to use the two outers that line up. No reason to drill new holes if not necessary.

That's really neat. Always fun to see work trucks with a unique history. You don't have to upload it - I believe you.

I had good luck cutting my bezel (to enlarge for double din) using a scroll saw. Had to go slow to avoid the melting but made for a clean cut and I could make it quite a ways before it started getting hot. Would require some foam or something to get the clock area flat so you aren't cutting a bevel.

So this blue truck is from Folsom Prison?

Welcome! Sorry to hear about having to sell but looking forward to seeing what you find in the future.

Look very nice! What all did you use? I'd like to clean up the Alcoa's I have so will be good to know what worked for you.

I've only ever seen that a/c register style once before on a bullnose and it was an online listing also. Definitely a different look to it with the knob/register combo. The green color does look good