kramttocs

Probably many more like it but this is a simple/fun site to rough guesstimate these things. Update: a lot of other factors come in as well that the dollars shown on that site don't encompass. When reducing rpm you also have engine benefits and noise reduction. The latter for me personally is a huge benefit. As always, pros and cons.

They must not have considered the change(s) to be worth mentioning. The lack of holes for the clutch safety switch/speed control switch are one difference and while I was looking at them upside down it appeared the webbing in the area of the holes is different. Again, it's not stopping anyone from swapping them, just pointing it out.

There's a reason they say that with a 460 it's all about smiles per gallon. C6? If so, I'd keep an eye out for a used gear vendors. Not cheap but will really help with the rpms at highway speeds.

Or http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/What-seat-base-is-this-tp85469.html

That is correct. I sent him the specs provided with my alternator when he did mine and he set the values to: 14.8 @ 3/4 setting. ~13.5 @ 1/2 and 12 @ 1/4 so probably about 12.7 @ 3/8.

Can you identify where the play is? Is the handle loose, the collar (it's riveted to the shift tube), the linkage down near the frame, etc? The video is the first time I've seen how a later model kind of works but looks like they changed quite a bit.

If you are wanting a jy cable but don't have access to one, feel free to post in the wanted section. I am in the same boat as Tyler with not knowing when I'll be back to the one near me but someone else may be able to look around for you. I know I check that section when I am in the yard so others may also.

Great guide for this here

I've never touched the exhaust on my 400 (well, beyond adding some more baling wire to it ) but there's been some 351 exhaust discussions here so if you want to start a thread with what you are looking for (both personal and regulatory) no doubt you'll get some good suggestions.

You could un-tang (?) the terminals from the connectors if needed but it does make it a more complex, intertwined harness. Plus with the size issue, sounds like there isn't really a benefit. With that, I am back to wiring all the non-clock circuits directly to the switches with female 1/4s and if in the future you need to add a connector for whatever reason you can.

Cleaning or just natural fading. The secondary colors on the one I cut up are very hard to see also. You can use which splice they go into, length, and what other wires they go into the splice with in addition to the gauge as clues. Gary's photo should help: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Help-On-3G-Page-tp86569p86819.html

Assumed 'non-clock' meant 'non-led' but wanted to check. Either way - we're on the same page. I haven't looked back at the models you used for your switches but do they work with the contura connectors? If so that might be an option so you aren't hooking/unhooking the spades individually.

Yes, welcome! You found yourself one really nice truck The color scheme, pinstripes, and accessories all go really well together. The exhaust really fits and looks great as well.

Non-led circuits? I'd go straight to the switch in your situation. With them being spade connectors vs directly soldered it won't be a big hassle to remove. Plus, the location is easily accessible - just tilt the radio bezel forward and unhook. If you find yourself getting in there a lot and making changes you can add a connector inline later. Maybe a Bill knows of a factory connector with at least 12 that isn't huge but Molex/mini-fit jr comes to mind. Small footprint and while it's a non-issue since they are driving relays, up to 9A per terminal.

I would use the marker lamps circuit initially and see how you like it. If you don't and want it to be controlled by the headlight switch dimmer, as you said, C333 is right there and would be an easy modification. I don't know that I would bother with the resistor option but that's me.

Robert, here's a picture of the bracket on my truck, albeit, not a very good one. This is not the original bracket but an earlier model year, as I ditched the OEM bracket which housed the smog pump. This bracket is secured to the water pump in two places and at the top bolt. You don't want to run your truck without that triangular bracket. Another angle. Took this one off last week.

Agreed - very clean and functional install!

The bullnose flaresides have grown on me a bit but I can't not see an earlier gen like this and think that someone has removed the outer skin for some reason

I have the kind that scbill posted (it's integrated into the carb dual feed line) and like it. Downside is that you can't do a quick visual inspection or don't have a pressure gauge after it. Does your carb allow a filter to be screwed into it and then have a barb on the input? Sorry, don't know anything about edelbrocks. If the carb accepts threads but you want to keep with the clear filter style you could also get a piece of already flared line from the parts store, bend the carb end with a 90, cut the other end off, and replace the current "filter to carb hose" with the hardline and a short piece of hose. That would get it off the vc. A number of solutions depending upon how much rerouting you want to do and hardline vs hose. Nice job on the 3G!

So that's how that works lol It does with the silverstar ultras they have that thing strung out to the max performance wise which drastically kills its life span compared to their lower level Silver Star bulbs. I do like the look of the composites you showed and agree that access from the back is much preferred on these trucks.

So that's how that works

Those sealed Silverstars are great as far as output but I didn't have good luck with longevity. Wouldn't mind trying them again after the xtravisions quit unless something better (looks and performance) has come around by then.

I thought the same.

You have a pressure tester right? I got one from a shop that was closing down as the owners were retiring, they were throwing a bunch of stuff away and I have no adapters with mine but without the adapters you can still do all pre 1989 vehicles as the radiator caps were a standardized size. Im thinking of buying a new one how ever cause they are great for finding leaks and if your cap is rated for 15 PSI for example and you pump it up to say 20 PSI if there is no leaks then you know you are safe. Ideally the way you are supposed to use them is pump up to the pressure rating on the cap. I personally always go 5 PSI higher than the cap which helps makes small slow leaks a little more pronounced. I do and will have to give it a go once I finish flushing all the Thermocure out

I'd say that's a safe bet. Haven't put mine under pressure yet to know about any leaks.