kramttocs

I thought that the 1980 and maybe 1981 factory aluminum sliders fit in a plain window gasket. This is the one in my 1980. I haven't pulled it yet, but I thought they had a flat flange that was the same size as the factory plain glass. The whole window sticks outside of the cab/gasket. That will be great info to have [when you pull it] - I have a factory aluminum one in the shop I can check out when I get home but pretty sure it's the thicker (thus later) one.

If due to the brevity of my post - no offense intended at all. Was rushing out the door and didn't want to leave you hanging. Copying from that table though (since that's the only reference I have): D3TZ-1042084-A: For Solid Window without chrome trim. 1973-1979 and Factory Slider: 1973-1981. Editing as this thread popped in my head tonight and bothered me: I want to emphasize that I meant no disrespect with that post -again, was just wanting to provide a quick response but in text there is no arguing how it came out and even I have trouble reading it in the way I intended it. You have my apologies Jim.

That post has the years

I can't confirm but according to the info I found at FTE, for those early years, they do From earlier in this thread- http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Rear-slider-gasket-tp54569p54781.html

Subscribed. I went with the urethane and I like the ride in the supercab but the downside is that when twisting there is some popping/creaking that sounds like it is coming from the fender-cab contact points. For that reason, I've debated changing some or all to back to rubber.

Looks like the price jumped pretty quickly. Note that this is a private listing. Not necessarily a bad thing but I am always skeptical when I see that.

I wish! The motor was a mix of the green and chrome. He'd done a good job on the detail.

Was at a truck show last summer and there was a 90 F150 where the kid had painted the liners the same color as the body (metallic green). It looked really good but I didn't ask what kind of paint was used and how long it had been that way.

Was a little disappointed the top cover wasn't painted in the shell pattern

Very neat! Well done.

Welcome!

Looks like it! Beautiful scenery also.

Hey Steve - I must have missed the previous comments on these. I know the one to the right of the radio is a big one but the first photo - is that a factory one in your truck (due to computer)? I am using that piece of sheet metal to hold my ground bar (fed directly from the battery) but don't recall seeing a factory ground going there.

No, they would be the same. "Pushes down" may be more dependent upon the bent position of the tabs inside the grill slots but I know the two of mine that I've reinstalled the trim on the trim is in close enough contact with the cowl such that if the cowl was propped up the amount shown in the OP, I would expect it to reflect in the trim. Anyways, was just something to look for.

Because if the cowl was curved/bent/propped up, then it would reflect in how the trim lays. The trim pushes down on the cowl so it will be visibly noticeable if the cowl was pushed up in the center as the trim wouldn't have the same angle throughout the curve. And if it's just the front of the cowl then it would have a noticeable incline from the trim. Cory already stated though that he thinks it is the hood.

Looking at the two near the antenna, is the corner of the hood higher there than the cowl? How does the windshield trim lay in the center? Does it have a good flowing curve to it that matches the glass?

Well said David and I agree. There are a lot of different ways/opinions on how to mount the radio and most of them will work just fine. I don't see any reason your plan wouldn't work. Simple yet effective. Just to answer your question below though- Mount the sleeve to the factory side mounts, make the connections through the sleeve, slide the radio into the sleeve, and reach around behind to attach the rear mount. Then install the bezel and the trim ring. I think that's what you were suggesting, right? Very close. I am thinking of making it like how Ford did it. The radio + sleeve + side brackets + rear mount would all be connected outside the dash. The only hitch is that the mic would need hooked up before the rear mount in your case but that would still be done outside the dash. With all of those pieces connected you'd put it up near the dash, make the wiring connections, slide it in so the rear mount clips on and then use the 4 factory side mount screws to secure the front. Then install the bezel and trim ring. There would need to be some adjustments done before the final install regarding depth. The depth of the sleeve isn't too critical but the aim would be to have it as far out as possible without touching the bezel. Once it's all adjusted odds are there will be a hole or slot in the sleeve that lines up with a threaded hole on the radio. So the radio would be clipped to the rear mount and machine screwed to the sleeve. The sleeve would be riveted (two to each side in a vertical line) to the side mounts and the side mount screwed to the dash. Then install the bezel and clip on the trim ring. Again, this is just another option of many

I was thinking you'd mount the radio in the sleeve (attached to bezel), screw on the rear mount, hook up the wiring and install it all together. I get that's not ideal though. I know using the bezel to mount aftermarket radios is pretty common but if you can use the front factory mounts with or without the bezel, that'd be great. What about - remove the sleeve from the bezel, pop rivet the cage to the factory side mounts and install the radio separate from the bezel? The sleeve could be further back than normal so the lip is behind the bezel but there should be slots in the sleeve for you to screw the radio to it. Or you could remove/flatten the lip so it goes though the bezel. Not sure I am explaining this well... Essentially the radio, sleeve/cage + front mounts and rear mount would all go in together with the rear mount clipping in and the front mount screwing in like factory. Then the bezel would install after.

Really looking forward to your review. I was planning to use window tint to tone down the green of my aux buttons - also between the cover and led- but may try those if they work for you.

Hadn't thought of it changing the color. I do see that Amazon sells LightDims (?)

You bet! I'd forgotten about that thread until you said it. The one that came on my 86 had the top portion bent forward to pull the pedal out further. One could also crimp something on the cable to push the top of the pedal back. Just need to not compromise safety.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Gas-Pedal-assembly-tp58010p58025.html Even with the thinner one the extra thickness of the mass backed essex was close. I cut a small slit in the corner to allow it settle in more and then bolted the pedal over the carpet.

I was reading it that he could put it (tape, tint) over the led but behind the colored lens. I may have misunderstood though.

Along the tape idea maybe some tint film? Wouldn't help making them uniform though...

I learned something (many things) new http://progress-is-fine.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-evolution-of-standard-wrench-sizes.html?m=1