kramttocs

I don't think anyone is saying you are. I mentioned it early on because, while admittedly I hadn't given the drop much thought when I installed it since all the aftermarket voltmeters I've installed use a key on source directly, it does work and is easy...but so on and so on and scooby dooby doo-bee

Agreed Gary. I've definitely given it thought and while I'd would like to try it for a comparison just to have the data to see what kind of drop there is, it goes against the reason for the LG/R+R/O option.

I pictured removing the terminals from the 8 pin and adding your own wedgelocks but you found another way to skin that cat

Very true. I was checking out the CB stuff

Edited my post after yours Gary but yes - the best way to me would be to remove the wires from the cluster connector and replace them with some from a scrap harness. That way one doesn't chop up their main harness. This all goes back to whether those choosing this option need/care about removing the extra length. While I may be interested and would like to test, it's not something I am rushing out to do.

Yes I have thought about this and been meaning to find a scrap cluster plug, removing those two (y/lg and r/o), and seeing what kind of terminals they are. Or better yet- pull the terminals and some length of wire from a parts truck, swap the existing terminals with those and leave the factory wiring alone.

Came across this site and brought back fond memories. I remember some of the covers and probably still have them somewhere. https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/index.htm

Thanks a lot Bob

I can confirm that in both my 80 and 86 - no shoulders on those. 80 has the cylinder(?) head, 86 has the taper head.

And hopefully no electricity is lost but in a pinch, good to have BB to keep things as comfortable as possible. Shouldn't need to power the door though

Yes, that hump and trapezoidal cutout look a bit unpolished but I guess gets the job done. I see them a often ran up the A pillar and clipped onto the upper windshield molding in front of the driver. Or in your case you could put it in your highliner. That said, in real world usage in a reg cab pickup is it really going to make a difference whether it's in the radio bezel or near the visor? - I doubt it. Plus might pick up Janey better in the center. I thought you were installing a ticker type display there? If that might happen, I'd go ahead and run it up and center it (so above the rear view mirror attached to the trim or highliner) myself.

I'd say they aren't since you could just as easily ziptie any wiring to the holes if needed.

Happy to help. All of the ones I've pulled have been snug to where there is no concern of movement. Could squeeze the clip more or add some thickness to the dash support if wanted. There isn't any depth adjustment per se but the trapezoid may have some clearance that spacing the bracket a bit further back will work. Or if needed you could take tin snips to both ends of the far side of the trapezoid, bend the new flap toward the front of the cab and squeeze flat. Would add both clearance and thickness (really don't think you'll need thickness though). If the prices are crazy, let me know and you're welcome to one or both of these. I grabbed them since I wasn't sure how I was going to do mine.

Those things are great! Bought a couple a number of years ago for painting our house but they spend most of the time now in front of a truck

Was going to say the exact same! That just took place at the top of my wishlist.

Found this photo at conrad.com via google search so assuming it's correct... A and A would be attached via a machine screw B (bottom of radio) would rest on B (bracket) The arrow is pointing towards the front of the truck. The holes on the side opposite the arrow are for connector clips (remnants are still there) The clip on the underside of the bracket would slip over the area of the dash support that has the trapezoid cutout. The dash photo is from my 86 where I flattened the hump as I didn't have another photo handy. So in yours where the cutout is it will be raised up. If you went with one of these it looks like the supplied mic has a right angle end on it so it might clear without modifications needed.

Do they not sit on top of the carpet?

Note the far one has been re-bent for a different length head unit. The clip on one I had was aftermarket. I used part of it for mine and am not finding a photo.

That a/c vent duct makes it tough or at least it did with the double din unit. Do you have one of the standoff/supports that screws to the back of the stereo and clips to the dash support at the hump? Some screw to the radio while some clamp over the back of it. If you ever do have to try and come in from the bottom, removing the floor duct helps.

Very clean and out of the way. Well done!

Thanks Gary! Between Cory's facts and your test, that should put it to rest. Bill - good info. I'll need to go back and read that whole document to see if maybe I took the table out of context.

Something along the lines of that or windshield primer/sealer was my first thought as well since it looks darker. Hard to really tell but hopefully turns out to be a non-issue or already fixed issue. Good luck Edit: zoomed in more and looks like there are drops of it splattered around so likely the same stuff that is in the floorboards of all these trucks I've seen, just never that much.

In photo 6, it looks like water trails coming from either the drain channel or the kick panel cover. Worth a closer inspection.

According to my 1984 FSM, the clutch amp draw would be 4.7 amps. Below are the amps for the blower on F150-F350 and Bronco with standard and high output heater: I couldn't find anything specific regarding the amp draw of the AC Blower...it is slightly different isn't it? I assume it is a higher flow (thus higher amps) than the standard blower? The only other power consumer in the AC system would be the solenoid on the carb, which might draw and amp or two?...I'm not sure. (Not present on the 460 and Diesel anyway...just the "little" engines, like mine lol). Thanks for this Cory!- that's the draw I was expecting. Gary - if you get a chance to test that would be great but no rush. Jim - regarding the wire size, no I don't, but going off of the Alternator document alone it sure doesn't look like a typo especially when you factor in the 45A footnote (which yes, is crazy) so not sure what all Ford was adding into it.

Came across this table from a doc on the alternator page: Heater: 12.3A. The blower relay addresses part of this. A/C: 26A. Assuming that includes the blower it still leaves 13A. Does that indicate that it would benefit from a relay at C616? Or am I overlooking something? I didn't think the clutch took this much.