kramttocs

I think it's a great idea and I like how you implemented it. I know I've chucked a number of these at the jy after seeing the clips broken already. So when installing with a door panel already installed on the truck you just angle it back and forth to get past the new white clip and then snap the factory metal clips to the panel as normal?

Thanks Gary. Good info for anyone looking to buy.

Shaun had some thoughts about the applicable years here Gary - does the MPC show anything for it?

About that... now I feel like a heel. You saying that yours didn't have any 'snap', triggered a memory that I am embarrassed to say was already forgotten. Turns out one of mine was the same way so I swapped boots and used a jy one as well. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p63488.html So both of us are rocking pricey boots. Really sorry about that. I am going to go update my post in the other thread where I linked to these showing 3 out of 4 not working.

I'm a firm believer that you get what you pay for. Plus the age of the vehicle is irrelevant to the cost to manufacture something. If anything, i'd think it becomes more expensive as fewer vehicles exist to sell product too. I'm just glad there aren't more mounting locations - some of the newer ford trucks were up to $8/900 due to more mounts needed. Plus, I plan to have my truck for decades, so I'd rather do it right and be done with it until 30-40 years from now, when they'll need replacing again. But I get it - to each his own. Anywho, as an FYI these are on backorder. I ordered mine a month ago and was then immediately notified that they should ship out around March 15th. Curiosity got the best of me so I called today, and they said next week. So I would anticipate a 6-8 wait for those who order. Same here - I called late last week and they thought they'd have enough for all the orders with the shipment that was coming in. Chatted with them yesterday and they said they would go out later this week. If they told you next week then we shall see...

My keyless entry came fused inline with 15 as well and has no issues.

Both those in my 86 are wedge. 9/86

I see nothing that would warrant a Looks excellent!

That's really interesting. Especially that it covers all classes. Added to my wishlist to follow suit with Dave - put one in the truck and phase out all of the others in the shop and house as they expire.

Yep, exactly.

Got around to looking at this today. Wanted to create something simple using just what I had in the shop before I did anything real involved. Took some nail strap, cut it in pieces, bolted them together, and drilled out one hole pair to the desired final diameter. The photos are of the 3/8 one but created a couple for the other sizes as well. 3/8 is the largest I'll ever use with this clamp style. After centering the clamp using the bushings, I placed some small c clamps on either side to really hold it in place and then stuck it in the vice. Normal drill bits still grabbed but step/uni bits worked without issue. Drilled from both sides. As discussed earlier, a much nicer jug could be made where each side would have a cutout just deep enough for the two ends of the clamp to sit in. That way you aren't just relying on the jig clamping pressure to prevent spinning. No more time than it took to make this super simple jig and since it works, this is probably good enough for my needs but for those with a mill, it'd be neat to see something really nice. Picturing a set of plates that have a bolt, slot/hole for size A, bolt, slot/hole for size B, etc.

This is BK/O to the battery post on the alt. I just happened to have the orange on the back side

Went out of the shop and did some digging. All my spares are 2g but my grandpa's 85 still had the harness hooked up and already had a replacement ring terminal crimped on. Removed the ring terminal and the wire checked out as 12awg. The jacket OD was 0.16". The fuse link was gone though (replaced with a wirenut ) so can't confirm that it was a 16awg. Crimped on a 10-12 uninsulated terminal using the crimper. It was a tight squeeze but made a nice tight crimp. Normally I'd heat shrink it like the other guys but this harness would get replaced anyways. Even if yours happened to be a 10, the terminal is the same so you're good with that crimper if you choose to go that route.

I think that wire came as either 10 or 12awg depending on the alt size. The crimper can do 10 but seems like Ford's jackets are pretty thick so it might be tight. I can see if I have that harness and can test the crimper on it tomorrow.

Regarding the crimper, another member recommended this awhile back and it has done really well. They also make a heat shrink terminal one that I use quite a bit. The crimpers are both really good quality. Kids destroyed the stripper trying to cut something not meant to be cut but it seemed decent. When you go to buy some adhesive lined head shrink buy extra. You'll find that you always run out at the worst time

Those amazon ones would work - no doubt they all now come from the same place but that ebay listing is for a set of 2 (2x). Amazon would definitely arrive sooner though.

Yes so I miss what you were saying. I do have a question? How is that "new" wire getting power? I seen one of the connectors had a "jumper" between the 2 wires. Was that out of the working truck or pulled from the spare box and again where was it getting power from? Next time I am in my container with the wiring harness I will have to take a closer look at the back side of the box. Dave ---- Let me know if this explains it better. What you're looking at in the photo with me holding the two terminals bridged together with the large wire and small wire is the red square box in the photo below. Originally it just had the GY/Y wire the red arrow is pointing to. The two terminals are the hot side of fuses 9 and 5. I soldered the smaller wire (green in the diagram) to the backside of 9 (or 5. Can't recall) and then ran it to an empty hole in the fuse box. The smaller wire was from a parts truck fuse box and the end not seen in that photo has a single terminal on it so it snapped into an empty hole (A). Then I took another single terminal wire from the parts fuse box, snapped it in the other empty hole (B), and ran it to whatever needs power. Stuck a fuse bridging A and B and the fuse now has power in Run because of the GY/Y factory wire.

I didn't realize the motor was for actually rolling/unrolling the cover. That's neat.

Subscribed and wow. That thing is tiny! I ran into the same boot issue when trying to find some used ones for the 86 since it didn't come with power locks. Ended up just buying a set of aftermarket ones so don't have any good solutions for making the boot out of something else. Mine were a $25 for the pair. Edit: these are the ones I bought and just used the factory mounting brackets Edit 2: Those locks do not have a good success rate. Gary had 2 duds and I had 1. The best thing about them are the boots that you can use on factory locks.

Ah 💡 Probably this: "I ordered some fuse block connectors but they turned out to be too small so am still unsure of where to obtain new ones." I was referring to a crimp on terminal that snaps into the back of the fuse block like from the factory. Something to make use of the empty spots that would then allow someone to use a fuse that looks like it came that way from the factory. I found some but they didn't fit in the fuse blocks in our trucks and haven't ever found new ones that do work. I've had to reuse some from another truck and solder my wires to them.

Hey Dave - not sure if you're asking me as I don't recall that but if fused correctly I see no problem with them and have used them on occasion for testing. Not something I've used as a semipermanent solution but that's due to form not function.

Nice find!

No apology needed at all. As said, I am glad you mentioned it. If I hadn't ran across it already, I'd be out there looking now before the silicone ones are shipped/charged. Actually, I will do another inspection this weekend. Plus, for anyone else considering these due to noise and not just worn out original rubber it's something they should be aware of. TSB 97-3-10

Thanks Jim! After this happened the first time I did a lot of forum searching and that TSB came up. Seemed like a good culprit but I looked at all the places and couldn't find anything that looked like it was shifting. I also removed the tcase skid plate (it's still off) as a quick test since that skid plate and the body mounts are the only two things that changed in regards to touching the frame. Prior to the rebuild, there wasn't any noise like this. At the top of the fender where it bolts to that horn on the cab I noticed fairly early on that I could tell they were shifting slightly. This fits with where the sound appears to be coming from primarily. Appreciate the suggestion since if these don't work, I'll be back to the drawing board. Albeit with lighter pockets...

Did you grease the polyurethane surfaces contacting metal? The sway bar bushings, yes but no on the body mounts. It's a good question and I've seen some say yes, some say no. Most I've seen saying yes refer to squeaking. Mine is definitely more of a popping/groaning noise. Instructions don't mention it and here is Gary's experience. My thought process on it is that I wouldn't want the bushings to move against the fame or body but rather the bushings should flex. Which with polyurethane it pushes more of that responsibility to the suspension and when that doesn't do it, the body. What are you thinking? Should they get grease? It's very possible that even with these new mounts I will still have the issue (hope not though ) and will have to start removing things. The mounts just seem like the most likely culprit.