kramttocs

Good call Jim - I second both the Performer intake and the L&L bracket. I think you and I both ran into shimming issues with the bracket but nothing a couple washers didn't fix.

I am not great at pricing stuff like this but I would think that even if it doesn't bump the selling price up, hearing/seeing it run would at the very least help sell it faster. Just curious - in a situation where the motor, etc is still installed what is the plan after the sale? Do you both pull it all then or does the buyer pay, leave, you pull, and then they come back? I've only bought motors that are sitting on tires when I pull up so never ran into this situation.

And on to the next Pretty sure it's my output bearing going out and probably has been for awhile but just now really noticing it (tranny cover is still off). I dropped the driveshaft and put my stethoscope on it. Really sounds like it's coming from back there, plus it makes sense if the noise is still present on the road even if I push in the clutch pedal. Dave - what rebuild kit did you use? I see US Standard has some as well as Novak-adapt. Prices are all over the place though for what looks to be the same components.

Since you'll be selling it locally I'd say the best bet would be to check Craigslist and FB Marketplace to see what the individual components (motor, tranny, tcase) are going for.

Everyone's already given you the good info so I'll just say that your load sensing valve looks really good. Most I see around here are a rusted chunk. Also, when you go to remove the air pumps and related components/lines you'll be surprised just how much stuff that is or at least I know I was. Like Dane said, try to remove it all carefully as there are people that need it. I shipped all of mine off to another member.

While you are looking for something, check out the composite decking section for those 4x4 posts. The price difference may not be that bad right now.

Thanks. Can you get one straight on looking in that hole just to the right of the leftmost 15A fuse (as oriented in the truck)?

Great! Let us know what you find.

I'd need to sit down and read through your scenarios in more detail but check this out: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/hvac-systems.html Go to the 1981 FSM Instructions tab and then the A/C-Heater System tab. Scroll down to Figure 3. It has a really good diagram and table that will allow you to mark off what is working and what isn't.

I appreciate it!

Thanks guys! This is primarily a curiosity thing as I've never seen one but Corey, if Chris is removing this and would part with it, I'd be interested. In the fuse block, there are 3 common snap-in [from the back] connectors: Power Windows (C1960), 4wd indicator (C1961), and Power Locks (C1962). In the 86 EVTM I've always wondered about the similarly shaped, yet unnumbered, spot between fuses 18 and 15. Looked in the 1981 EVTM this weekend and see that it is labeled C1963 and goes to the Feedback Carburetor Control. That page appears to only be applicable for 6 Cyl Calif (4.9L). Seth - if you remove the fuse panel cover and look in the square space between 18 and 15, do you see something in there clamped over the metal strip? Would guess it's a green/blue color. No need to remove the connector or anything like that, just interested to hear someone say they have it.

Thanks guys! Jim - C616 looks like a good candidate. Where that solenoid bracket mounts is the same place my kickdown return spring mounts so hoping they have a combo bracket or solution to that.

If you have this setup let me know. Thanks

Hey John - as we discussed offline, I removed and tossed the Precision ones in a box after finding some NOS ones locally. Fit and function was night and day difference in my experience. The Precision ones made the vents near impossible to open. Maybe, like door seals, they would have adjusted over time but seems like they'd have had to shrink a fair amount - making the exterior gaps worse. You're welcome to them if you want them.

Thanks Jim, I appreciate that. After spending the money on this one, I really hope I can make it work. Once I figure out one, the other truck should be the same. Dave - you're right. A little more looking and I see how it works. I should have, but didn't realize the screw was only adjusting the stop right above. With my spacer I was able to turn it without removing the carb. I only did it an 1/8 of a turn which didn't do enough to make a difference and ended up setting it back. Going to call Holley again tomorrow to get a second rep's opinion. I had my timing gun connected and was watching the rpms (in case the secondary did have an impact). Since the truck was running I wanted to get it warm enough to circulate the Thermacure for a bit so I turned the A/C on. That really dropped the rpms and the voltmeter reflected it. Started turning on lights, etc and watched the needle drop. While I have Holley on the phone I am going to ask them about their throttle stop solenoid and if it will work with my auto trans kickdown since the brackets look exclusive. Hate that it's a STOP vs a kicker though as I'd rather have something hands off in case a passenger turns the ac on while I am out of the truck. Just another case of trying to go with a simpler setup and yet end up recreating what the factory already had.... I spent a little time after festivities finishing up dash control v2 and wiring it all up. Similar to how Gary has some of his buttons, the backup lights, backup camera, and driving lights are now able to turn on automatically with Reverse or High Beams, respectively, or they can be manually turned on. Thought I would be happy with only having everything on manual control but that quickly passed after some real world usage. Leds are a bit bright but I am happy with the retro look of the light up dials. Wired so that rotated left is Auto, middle is Off, right is On. Led is lit anytime the load is on.

That's the same housing of the ones I installed on my equipment trailer, just not safego branded (autosaver88?). They seem well made though I don't have any long term experience. I recall some reviews mentioned opening them up and sealing them better with a clear epoxy of sorts. I agree with Jim's review- they get the job done for the size and price.

Haven't ever heard of those before but they look great on there Thanks for sharing

Well done! Really like the saddle blanket cover and the 4wd shifter buddy

Welcome! As Dave said, everyone has what they like. With the heavy patina and a good color to go with it, I wouldn't want to lose that. I've seen others talk about sealing it so it doesn't turn into significant rust but can't really speak to how well that works of the longevity of it.

Glad to hear the family is excited! Looking forward to living vicariously through you and the adventure. Jim - the whole trash situation is sad, isn't it? I just have such a hard time conceiving how someone can walk away from a spot in nature and just leave the refuse behind. Same way I can't imagine rolling a window down and chucking a clamshell in the ditch.

Thanks. My 9 year old granddaughter has bookmarked the forum on her tablet, so will be checking on what Pop Pop is doing. And, she quickly, and loudly, said she wants to go camping with me when she saw the picture of the tent. Hey guys. Thanks for the replies. Definitely need to see a doctor although which PhD they need to have is debatable. Fuse 15 (at least in 86) is for the "Fuel Tank Selector With Aux Fuel Tanks Except 5.0 or 7.5 with Fuel Pumps In Tank". My truck fits the latter so this was unused with only the one leg populated. That leg comes from a splice that includes the LG/R excite wire and what ultimately goes to the Red wire in the DSII. Not sure why Fuse 15 would need reduced voltage in Start though. The last flush had some gravelly rust come out of the block so will see what happens after a week with the second bottle of Thermacure. Just wish there was a way to get turbulence in there without tap/well water. Guess this is better than nothing though. I am pretty annoyed with the QuickFuel carbs also and I am having the issue on both the 460 and 400. I would put the original carb back on the 400 but it didn't have a choke at all so it would just kick the can down the road until winter. It may be a pain but looks like I can access the screw without removing the carb. It overhangs enough I think. The 600cfm on the 400 is an allen so that's even better. The 750 is a slot screw. As far as removing it and putting the screw in from the top - does that mean it's a through hole or is there somewhere else to put it? I didn't see either but may have missed it. I got the QFT carbs since my understanding was that they made tuning easier but without a choke pulloff and a less than easy way to adjust the secondaries, I am not buying it. While I don't like having to do this, I do like it better than drilling the holes I did see some references to doing that Dave and they had the same warning as you - don't start too big.

Amen, brother! Echoing the "it's a pain" sentiment. Once the hose is on there try a nut driver or socket on an extension. I guess one could apply some lubrication to the tank port that would make it easier.

Does it ever come on? During the initial buzzing? Looking at the diagram, with a single buzzer I am not seeing how the buzzer could be on and the light isn't (aside from a burnt bulb). Trying to find some common ground to start working backwards from.

Slow going but have checked a few things off the todo list for Camano. Ran a new harness to the back for the trailer turn + backup as well as the aux backup lights under the truck's bumper. The trailer circuits eliminate the factory jumper that just splits the truck's circuits. While it's less of an issue these days since most trailers use leds I still don't care for that approach. Plus I found out that the LH wire in the jumper was barely hanging on from a PO's use of scotchlocks I 3d printed out a new control panel and rewired in a way that I like better than the first. This involves changing how the panel gets power also. Because working behind the fuse panel (Gary can attest to this) isn't a joy, I decided to make it where I shouldn't have to again and filled in all the extra/unused circuits. Adding this mainly for my future reference: Fuse 2: jumper from Black/Green to one leg. Circuit 297. Hot in Run/Acc. Leg coming out - Blue/Yellow. Currently unused. Fuse 3: Black/Pink in and Black/Pink out. This is just to fuse the circuit coming from the backup switch (transmission) that will go to one of the control panel switches. The buttons/switches I am using don't have a high amp rating and the factory fuse for that circuit is too high. Fuse 7: Green/White out. This is fed from the fuse/cb in 12. Currently unused Fuse 10: jumper from Black/Orange to one leg. Circuit 38. Always hot. Leg coming out - Red/White. Used for Control Panel power for lights and some relay triggers. Fuse 13: jumper from Grey /Yellow. Circuit 687. Hot in Run. Leg coming out - Red. Used for GVOD control box Fuse 15: already has one leg populated that gets reduced voltage in Start and full in Run. Leg coming out: Blue/White. Currently unused. I will terminate these 7 wires in a factory wedgelock connector to the left of the radio for usage or future usage. Had to order some larger molex minifit jr connectors so they should be here tomorrow and I can finish that wiring up. Still working with the Thermacure to try to clean up my coolant and prevent residue in the overflow tank. I like the 90 degree drain in the radiator so much I added two in place of the block drains. Makes for getting most of the coolant out a whole lot easier. Tonight I poured in my second bottle of Thermacure after running a few flushes after the first bottle. My main reason (at the cost of a bottle) is to see if it really comes out dark from cleaning the rust or if those dark jugs are primarily due to the residual green coolant that isn't there now. I will say that the cleaning flushes would be a whole lot faster using a water hose. I am not sure how many trips and gallons of distilled it would take to make the water come out clear. My hesitation is that I am on well water and would prefer to stick with distilled only. I also wonder how much of this amber color is from flash rusting due to running pure distilled? So far: Also, having a frustrating time with the carb and choke. Idles great when warm but rough as a cob initially. Doesn't matter if I have the choke on either extreme. Turns out the QFT carb doesn't have a choke pull off. So until the choke opens a little, it's rough. I spoke to Holley today and was told to reduce the curb idle screw and make up the difference by adjusting the secondary throttle plates via the screw on the bottom of the carb. Does that sound valid? Seems like the only other option would be to rotate the choke way outside the marks.

Does your fasten seatbelt light come on when the buzzer is buzzing?