kramttocs

Normally, I am a fan of these. My neighbor has a Dodge one on his porch that I really like. I've never sat in one though but I'd question the comfortable factor as well. As for this listing, it's not a style I'd go for. I like the pew style better vs these ornate ones for the bench and I don't care for the specific tailgates used here. I'd want the tailgate to have the letters more vertically centered (like ours have). Personal preference...

Truer words have never been spoken. Pull out of a parking spot thinking there is nothing but wide open space. Next thing I know I am doing a 10 point turn.

Tough call from the photos. It doesn't look like they pulled the back glass when repainting so if they did masking on stuff like that, a 3? Really like the truck as a whole though and wouldn't kick it out of my driveway

I agree on checking the vent but I just wanted to mention that the 460s (I believe only them) had a gas tank cap that has two levels of tabs. The cap also has a pressure warning on it. With the two levels of tabs and pressure it would vent on the first twist but wouldn't blow the cap off. I could see the 460s having more vacuum but not sure why they'd have more pressure (Bill?) than any other carbed config. Reason for mentioning it is (if the vent is clear) maybe the conditions that prompted Ford to put these on 460s is being met with your setup somehow.

Thanks guys. Really appreciate the replies (and the vote of confidence Jim). I started to respond at least 4 times this weekend but I was jumping from job to job and never was able to fully type out a thought. I will keep this to the point. If I was to list all the questions that went through my head this weekend on this, it would be a mess I backed the truck out to swap places with the 86 and reverse sounded fine. Pulled it back in using 2nd. It definitely didn't make the noise like 1st did although I felt like I was starting to hear it if I gave it a little gas. Let off quickly and didn't test anymore. Despite this truck being a bare metal floor I absolutely agree with Jim that without the cover, sounds are going to be "off" somewhat. Drained and filtered the oil. No chunks and the gears looked the same. There were some shiny shavings on the magnet though. Looked all over, put it in the gears, and nothing stood out. Due to the increased thickness of the gvod adapter I had to get new bolts but, as it did on install, the three [hint] I could easily see where flush with the case. Drained the gvod and removed it. Oil looked good there as well. Pulled the adapter. Found that the bottom driver side bolt had been ground down some. Found a few reports of this happening. While embarrassing since I was concerned with this during install and mistakenly assumed if three were good the other was also, if this is the issue I will be happy. This would explain the shiny shavings on the magnet. That's as far as I've gotten though I did pick up an adapter gasket today. Jim - Regarding the gvod, this will explain it better than I could dream of. I haven't hooked up the electronics so for awhile it will only be direct drive. I think the alignment concern is valid so I took some measurements but everything seemed to be the same as with the original housing. The adapter actually still has a bushing in relatively the same place. Instead of the yoke, it's the coupler that joins the tailshaft to the gvod input shaft that uses the bushing. Not sure how much sense that makes without seeing it in person. Dave - that's a great question. I never gave it gas in 1st with the driveshaft connected but can't recall now if it tried to more forward or not. I was too focused on stopping the noise that the truck could have been levitating and I doubt I'd have noticed. Even with the adapter on and putting it in first, the stick seemed like it went all the way as normal. Also having my wife shift it and me looking through the side, the gears seated as I'd expect. That makes me think it would have moved in first and the noise was truly just the reverse gear. GL5 and GL4 for these transmissions. Now isn't that a nightmare to figure out I got lost a couple months ago trying to figure out what's I should use. Ended up just calling Amsoil and for better or worse they recommended this gear oil. It is GL-5 but also says it can be used in GL-4 diffs. Not sure if that means anything in regards to transmissions though and the yellow metal. Short answer - I really don't know, it may be a mistake to use it. On the cover, I may still do that if this bolt isn't the whole issue. Is it as simple as removing the bolts and lifting off? The shop manual makes it seem so. Will anything go flying or falling? I will dig out my cheap ebay scope to check how much I need to grind off the adapter bolt so it doesn't contact the reverse gear. I would have expected to hear the same noise when entering 2nd gear and especially reverse. I will have to get my wife to shift through the gears again as I don't know what moves and what doesn't regarding that reverse (idler?) gear. My fear is that it shaved off what was needed for that clearance and the grinding noise is elsewhere. My hope is that it is still too proud and is preventing that gear from moving full travel. So maybe it's not a matter of two gears not meshing properly but rather a third gear not getting out of the way [of 1st gear].

Yes, glad to hear from you!

Another vote for not black wheels

Welcome aboard! 8 or 6ft bed? The aluminum diamond plate is still readily available (DeeZee). Tailgate cap in the same style is available from another mfg but can't recall the name. Something like TCI but not them. You can also find the DeeZee extruded and the smooth tailgate caps (both stainless?) for sale periodically. There was a smooth one on eBay just the other day and an extruded one gets relisted often.

I know it sounds bad, but the fact that you shut it down so quickly I doubt anything is damaged. It would almost have to be something in the GVOD wouldn't it?...I mean, you didn't technically didn't touch anything in the NP435? That would make sense to me also but I don't think there is anything in the gvod that would make that noise. I can call them on Monday though. I think I will drain the np435 tomorrow, pull the side panel and look around.

I should have just left well enough alone. Finally got the driveshaft back in the 1980 1ton tonight after installing the gear vendors a couple months ago. It had been parked about 30ft from the shop ever since trailering it to get the driveshaft measured. Went to drive it in the shop and received this noise after putting it in first and releasing the clutch. Put it in 2nd and didn't get the noise so crawled it into the shop. Dropped the driveshaft from the gear vendors end so it wouldn't go anywhere and tried putting it in first again just to rule out the driveshaft. Didn't give it any gas but same noise (this is the recording). What I did prior to this: Drained the transmission Cleaned the gunk off the magnet Gears all looked really good (maybe not now...) Remove the tailshaft housing and replaced it with the gear vendors adapter Installed gear vendors Filled transmission with amsoil The transmission hump cover is still off. Sounds like the noise is coming from the transmission and not the gvod. Didn't have this noise prior to doing this work. Thoughts? I know it sounds like the gears aren't meshing but I can't think of what I'd have done to cause this. SoundRecord-2021-03-26-22-53-13.wav

Happy to help and looking forward to hearing more on the project/plans. Also, don't sweat it on the brake controller. These came with optional factory wiring for a brake controller but not the controller itself so while it might have been period correct, it would have been a dealer or owner installed one. Not sure if dealers had a Ford branded one but I've never seen it. I usually see the old KH hydraulic ones.

That round one with 2 pins sounds like the door jamb switch for the courtesy lights. You'll find quite a few connectors tucked up in places unused and that is due to different options/trim levels. The nice thing about this is that it makes adding a lot of these things plug and play.

Welcome! First, please review the email I sent regarding the guidelines, link, and new member post Now, as for that plug - it looks like C125 which is for the digital clock. Some trucks had a digital clock in those 3 rectangles above the radio. Some wiring here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/digital-clock1.html Tracking down the wiring on these trucks can be "fun". Putting together details like location, color of plug, number of wires in the plug as well as how many the plug can handle, and the color of the wires will usually help us narrow it down pretty quickly. For reference, if you have the factory brake controller wiring it will come through the firewall in a grommet all by itself located roughly behind the brake pedal.

It really does. BUT it has a tach and a mobile phone

Looks like it. Similarly 1497 for the slide style. Both without aft tank.

Wow! Those look great.

The ones in the other post? I agree, they look really nice as well. Hard to beat the classic Alcoa though

Agreed!

Looking forward to the results as well. Have used my smaller one like this a number of times over the past few days and already it's getting finicky on the strokes.

The Precision brand kit I ordered has them. They are the opposite factory so they aren't seen unless you look for them. The Fairchild kit I installed has the holes also, but not on the face of the seal like above. My doors are still a bit stiff to close a year later, but they're better than they were. I need to adjust the lip/seam on the lower A-pillar...that's where mine is tight. Might be because of my aftermarket door...not sure. Good to know Fairchild does as well and sounds like they are in the same location as Precision. I meant to say "They are on the opposite side from factory..."

The Precision brand kit I ordered has them. They are the opposite factory so they aren't seen unless you look for them. Can't say the entire Precision kit is great but have no complaints on the door seals and would recommend them without hesitation.

Hey Jim - sorry, that faux warning was directed at Rusty. That's a neat post Bill and would have been fun to be part of that testing.

The spring steel question I'll leave to MacGyver For the contacts, I smeared some dielectric grease on them. White lithium on the other non-electric moving parts.

Thanks Jim Once I use up the remaining 10w-30/Lucas bottles I like the simplicity of T4 10w30 for the fall change and T4 15w40 for the spring.

Not high mileage* but I like Valvoline Conventional (with Lucas ZDDP). The last year I've had a hard time finding Valvoline Conventional 10w-30 locally. Either no longer carried or rarely in stock. Would also like to settle on something I don't have to add anything to. *Meaning I just haven't used it, not that I don't like it