kramttocs

Took a look at the 81 evtm in the Doc and doesn't look like it has the circuit for it.

My 80 doesn't. Nor does it have the holes in the pedal assembly/bracket for it. I'll check my 80 evtm to see if it shows it for a manual.

That was an interesting watch. Thanks!

The gap and noise isn't unusual. Higher trim models have a piece of weatherstripping to address it. Have you tried adjusting the top door side hinge? I didn't touch mine but I believe it has in-out adjustment.

Got this in yesterday. Fits as expected. Only complaint is being picky but the sticker is poor and I don't expect it to last very long. Still, for the price and not plugging up the drain, it's a worthwhile purchase to me.

Funny you mentioned that Bill. I paused for awhile on the photo trying to figure out the bottom word as I'd not seen that before. Off to google that name...

Here are the factory trailer wiring connectors. Note that C1110 is a standalone harness that goes from under the brake booster (where it goes through a grommet into the cabin to connect to a brake controller) to the rear crossmember. This harness includes the black Trailer Lamps circuit from C1104.

That looks great!

I have two F250s handy (85 and 86) and am positive that neither have had their springs touched. Both spring code K and both have 5.

I know you weren't in a rush and were good with waiting. I just had it on the counter and was running to the post office anyway so... I am sure we will find something else (computer bracket?) that you'll be able to pick up if/when/hopefully.

I am pretty sure I used these for my air cleaner but at the time they were a pack of 50 (of which I have 48 left...) If I hadn't already mailed your firewall grommet Gary, I'd throw in a few just to get rid of them.

I can't recall with your wiring changes but are the fuel pump and trailer brake fuse links still over on the driver's side fmr? I know the blue wire for the fuel pump on crank needs to stay over there along with the shutoff connector but it'd be nice to move the others to the isolator (main battery side) and shorten the length of those circuits. Edit for spelling that was bugging me.

That's..interesting. Glad that's all it took!

Going to have to take a look at my bezels now. I like the hot glue idea. I've taken a soldering iron to them to melt them back and while it worked, didn't work great. This is much better. Well done.

Hubs locked in?

I also second the L&L as a valid option to get rid of the smog bracket and Jim is correct in that it needs shimming. Unfortunately the ebay offering won't work as you are going to 4wd but would have been a great price.

You are correct and good eye. As with BB, I also have the trailer lights and trailer charge fuse links on the aux battery side of the isolator. I've tried to make it so that in an emergency if I lose the aux battery and/or somehow lose the isolator, the truck will still function safely. So things like the headlights, blower, trailer brake power, trailer flashers and choke work off the main battery.

I like it. Lay it out and let the user decide what works for them.

It would work but will likely go through a number of the discs and the slots will be smaller (not ideal). Did the thickness of anything change? Can you stick a punch all the way through the hole to ensure they are going into the water jacket? If not, did these have acc brackets under them perhaps? Sorry, I don't know which are through holes or not so just trying to think of other causes.

I would want to emphasize the can in regards to c610 staying. The instructions will really be the same so I'd just say it can be on either side of the connector where the wires are cut.

Got a few little things taken care of this weekend. Removed the heater core and replaced with the new one. I haven't tested the old one yet but I am not convinced it was leaking from the core and am thinking it was self-inflicted . After I had reinstalled the old one during the rebuild process, I felt like the tubes coming through the firewall were a little too close to the metal opening. To add some protection I wrapped the tubes a couple times with some of that silicone repair tape. Since it was already installed, I didn't really get the wrap as far in as I'd like. I am thinking that the hose clamp was a little on the edge of the tape and coolant was working its way under the tape and inside the cab where it was showing itself. I went ahead and installed the new core and some of the tape again (before installing) but got it right at the edge of the firewall so there is no way the clamps could end up on it. We shall see. It's bypassed right now until I do a few coolant flushes. Next was the GVOD 4wd lockout (ground) wire. I had made a jumper in the blue 4wd indicator light wire at the connector beneath the brake booster and that worked fine but was a bit cluttered. Removed the dash, pulled the 4wd indicator light from the cluster and crimped/soldered a wire to the ground leg of the light. Added a factory connector to the end (CG60, CG59) and ran it to the GVOD module. Recently Gary and Bill discussed how the trailer wiring works in later years vs 80-86. Taking a cue from that and since I had some spare relays in the driver side box, I decided to use two of them for the trailer turn/stop instead of just splicing into the truck wiring at the rear crossmembers. "Splicing" meaning that even with the trailer tow package like my truck has, Ford still just tied in back there. Hooked the triggers up and will run dedicated load wires to the back when I run the aux backup light wire. I crimped the trigger wires on top of the appropriate terminals in C305B near the steering column. Secure but removable without a trace if desired. Here are the wiring diagrams I am using for the ssVEC boxes. Had to make do with some of the Objects but it works for my needs. Driver side: I greyed out the starter kill since while nothing new it hasn't been discussed if we should make something like that for our trucks easily visible. Passenger:

So, if you can't find a pulley tap then maybe you can find an extension tap? (I'd never heard of it, either.) Learned something new One could also take a grinder and cut flutes in a bolt that is long enough. Essentially a long chase giving the crud somewhere to go. Oil, thread, remove, clean, repeat.

That would be handy when the need arises - hadn't heard of them either. Similar to taps and the same issue with length in your situation but a good set of thread chasers is worth it. I use mine quite often. An ounce of prevention tool.

Check this out also: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1522843-how-to-and-product-review-spectra-ac-condenser.html Spectra or another name you are all but guaranteed to get the same model from what I ran into and what I've read from others.