kramttocs

Do you have a photo or number/id for the one you are looking for?

That marine cleaner sounds appealing. Especially in warm weather. My frame didn't have any rust but I went over it all with a wire wheel and then wiped it down with Duplicolor degreaser until the rag came back clean.

So little to no resistance at all?

I agree on painting it. If for no other reason than whenever you are working under the truck you can look at the frame and smile I went back and forth a lot with what to use but settled on Krylon Rust Tough RTA9203. Very happy with the results.

I would try some silicone spray in there also. After blasting mine I had to move the jaws quite a bit to get the abrasive out of them. Even when clean they still had a hitch until I sprayed the silicone in there. Hopefully that's it and you can avoid removing the door panel and dealing with the linkage.

Welcome aboard! Glad to hear you saved the truck from the jy

Thanks Jim! Gary - this is the first time I've had a need for a latching relay but am excited to wire it up and test it.

Thanks a lot for looking it over Gary. I guess technically you don't have to depress the clutch when engaging the OD but some have said it slams pretty hard in a manual. With the auto brain box in Camano the 'engaged' light comes on a split second before the OD engages so you can let off the gas a bit to ease the shift. Interested in how Jonathan uses his behind a stick so will tag him. On the switch I have a Cole Hersee M486 Pull-Type Momentary Switch. You're right that there don't seem to be many options so was glad to find a Cole Hersee one. Never found the specs on it but assuming it can handle 3A.

No, the 2wd part Would be nice driving it since the rear tires are just a couple inches too wide so have to be removed. Gear Vendors has a manual tranny brain box that I pulled from the donor but I am going to omit it and wire it myself. Am I overlooking anything here? Switch A is the NC speed control clutch switch that is open when the clutch is depressed. Truck doesn't have cruise so repurposing this switch. Switch B is a NO momentary switch that mounts to the shifter. Operation: 1.Shift into 4th and accelerate. 2.Once ready to shift into OD, press the clutch (opens Switch A), and pull up on Switch B (closes). 3.OD will engage 4.Release clutch (closes Switch A) and then release Switch B (opens) 5.OD remains engaged 6.When time to decelerate, press clutch (opens Switch A) 7.OD disengages

No, the 2wd part Would be nice driving it since the rear tires are just a couple inches too wide so have to be removed.

If it was downhill both ways I would

Thanks Jim

Thanks Dave! Sorry for not replying sooner. I should really change the title of this "project" to Lipstick on a Pig... As I mentioned previously the next thing for Chanute was the GVOD. Had all the parts ready to go, called the driveshaft shop, and was told a day turnaround. So I was figuring 2 days tops. Well that was two weeks ago and Chanute still can't move on its own. Because the gvod came out of a 4wd T18/19 I had in my head that I just needed to find a T19 2wd adapter. After a couple months of looking, found one on ebay and happily bought it. Since I had the gvod cleaned and ready to go, I removed the driveshafts and kicked off the 2 day downtime. Looked at the tail extension and immediately remembered that this truck has the NP435 (added to sig so I'll never forget) The fallacy of sunk costs means don't give up, right? Ordered a NP435 adapter. More T19 and NP435 adapters: Note that they both say T19 (???): Drained, inspected and cleaned off the magnet in the transmission then mounted the gvod Hoping to get the Amsoil gear oil put in it this evening. While I was waiting for the new adapter I did some other tasks like taking the carb from Camano, changing out the valve covers for the M/T ones, ditching some unnecessary A/C bracketry, installing some garage door weatherstripping for the hood seal, replacing the open air cleaner with a factory one w/duct and installing an ssVEC relay box for the electric choke and headlight mod. I measured the driveshaft and I am just not sure if I can keep a two piece or need to go to a single. Rather than taking the risk and having to pay for another mistake I am going to just trailer the truck to the driveshaft shop. That means I need to finish the wiring on the trailer that I started awhile back

The downside to having a few nice days between cold ones is that you start projects that you then freeze your fingers off trying to finish... Camano has been down since Christmas day when we loaded up to head to my parents. About a mile down the road I noticed a couple drops and some light spitting coming from above the passenger floor board. With A/C, where do the heater cores normally drip from? Path of least resistance obviously but I ask because mine is up near the firewall on the right side of the unit by a pressed rivet(?) holding the two pieces of the hvac casing together (not the removable cover). It's bubbling out there and either dripping or getting scattered by the fan and speckling the kick panel. Just not where I expected it to come out. Have a new unit on order so will swap that out when it arrives. At the same time I am going to change out the worm gear clamps with some spring ones. Am hoping the single wire ones work but ordered the other style also. What does everyone use for their heater hose clamps? Since it was down anyways, figured it was a good time to do some carb work. During the summer I had some restarting issues that appeared to be due to the fuel in the bowls getting too hot so I ordered a Holley heat shield to try out. In this photo it is on top of the 1" spacer for a test fit but it goes under it. Since I've been taking care of a few things on Chanute I decided to swap carbs. Moving the 600cfm Quickfuel I had on Camano to Chanute and picking up a 750cfm Quickfuel for Camano. I've only fired it up once (due to the heater core leak) but after checking the temp between the heat shield and the bowl there was a very noticeable difference. This was by touch only as my temp gun wouldn't get a good fix on the shiny bowl. Looking forward to seeing if it makes a difference. Right now I have: Carb Thin 4 hole gasket 1" 4 hole swirl phenolic spacer Thin open gasket Open heat shield (1/16 inch) Thick open rubber spacer/gasket (1/4 inch) Dual plane intake I hesitated at having the open pieces interrupting the flow so if it gives me fits but the shield seems to work I think Mr. Gasket makes a 4 hole shield. It should only impact me at idle right? During the single short run I only checked the float level and didn't touch anything else yet. Sounded good to the ear but interested in thoughts on this combo. In addition to the carb I am swapping out the passenger side ssVEC unit to an 004 model like on the driver side. Chanute now has the 001 model for the headlights and conversion to electric choke. Admittedly a bit of a pain since I have to rewire the headlight circuit due to needing to move those wires to a further away connector on the ssVEC. Going to change to ceramic sockets during this process. The whole reason for this ssVEC change is the driving lights. With the 001 they were wired on their own independent relay which was fine except when meeting vehicles on the road and having to dim both the headlights and turn off the driving lights. With the 004 model I am planning to wire them like the diagram below so that they are off when low beams are on but still not tied to the hi beams. They have covers on them so I don't want them automatically turning on with the hi beams. Any concerns with this? I could rewire the DL trigger to provide ground and use 87a off the low beam relay to be 86 on the DL relay but that would require wiring in another fuse and not sure it's necessary. Whole bunch of stuff thrown out there at once so to recap : 1. With A/C, where do the heater cores normally drip from? 2. What does everyone use for their heater hose clamps? 3. Thoughts on carb spacer setup? 4. Thoughts on chaining the relay?

Welcome! Glad to have you

Scott, if you are asking me, the Hellas with their supplied bulbs and the headlight relay system work great. Thanks - yep, you're the guy I see daylight photos were added here so thanks, gsmblue, for that. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1982-Bronco-351-4x4-Code-name-Esperanza-tp9221p78254.html As far as retaining the factory look, these look good.

Gotcha. Tempted to try these. In daylight (lights off) how do they look aesthetically compared to the stock sealed style? David - you still liking these?

Nice price. So that's what color burlwood should look like...

Did the bulb that came with it (the Hella) not work very well?

Cooking with gas now

Nice work! In case you are wanting to replace the nuts: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Supercab-Rear-Quarter-Window-Nuts-tp39696.html If you need a replacement or spare, you might have luck at a jy. One of my quarter window trim pieces had a dent in the center bar so replaced it with a jy one. Since you have your glass portion out you are in good shape for having it tinted. I'd think they/you would be able to slightly lift up the rubber around the glass and tuck the film under it. Not sure if the glass can be removed entirely without stretching the rubber too much or not.

The left one If you don't mind - post em up! Chad may not need one but would be good to have them listed. I tried ES 73036 but the oring in it didn't work for the ext oil cooler version.

See 6890 Diagram should be rotated clockwise along the provided line about 90degrees. Side note: if anyone has a source for the large oring, please share. Update: guess I should have refreshed to see your new post

Agreed - looking really good. Great black and woodgrain combo.

In reference to the bushing/sleeves: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-TRANSFER-CASE-SHIFT-LEVER-BUSHING-BRONCO-II-EXPLORER-F-SERIES-RANGER/282628725787?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 That's the seller I bought mine from and it actually came with new sleeves but not sure if that was just luck or not. The bushing itself likely doesn't need replaced though. I only did mine because I was powdercoating the lever. I think Andre is just saying to not forget to put them back in when you reassemble but I could be wrong on that. My sleeves didn't look terribly worn although one was cracked.