kramttocs

Ouch! I can almost hear the 'oomph' Go some GVOD work done today. This unit came from an 86 6.9/4spd 4wd. The diesel may have leaked a drop every now and then. Note that the bottom of the unit is flat under the protruding block. This is because this unit doesn't have the deep sump like would normally be on a truck. It's also an old model (1993 I think) so it may have been on another vehicle before the diesel. There is a lot of great info here. It covers this process in great detail so I won't repeat what he details. On the unit in Camano I made my own spanner wrench to get to the upper filter. For this one I ordered the actual tool and it worked much better. Here is after cleaning both filters and installing the flat filter with extension for the deep sump. With the deep sump installed. As was mentioned in the article above, the hex head bolts aren't perfectly suited for the fins on the sump. I ran into this with Camano so I ordered some flanged ARP bolts and it worked much better. Since the adapter on the truck was for the bw1345 I had to find a T18/19 one with coupler. Installed a new seal in it and temporarily installed it. It will need to come off since it has to be installed to the tranny and then the coupler shimmed before the OD is installed. Time to read up on the T18 to see what to expect when I remove the rear tailshaft...

Sorry - I meant that I had derailed it with an apples to orange comparison. I just remembered that I had taken recordings so maybe if ratdude could do that also to try and capture both a normal and fast start it might spark some ideas?

Welcome! Really like that color combo. Jim's correct - I have a 1 wire Powermaster on my 460 and while I have no real complaints - "not sure I love it" is a good tagline for it. I've only had one situation that I recall looking at the gauge and seeing that it hadn't been excited. In that case I was testing something else so didn't give it any gas to bump the rpms. I've only got a couple thousand miles on it right now so will be interested to hear your experience and your reasons if you swap to a 3g.

Overruns isn't the right term then. We'd discussed it here awhile back as I was concerned but from what I recall it was just decided that due to the gearing of the starter it just makes more of a whirring noise. I don't want to derail from ratdude's truck though - I only mentioned it because my understanding was that it is making that noise because it was made for higher compression engines and that was going back to compression being the only reason I could think of for a starter to run faster, all else unchanged.

Good find!

If you are going powdercoated then it has my vote Didn't realize the newer ones were already.

Definitely not against upgrading - especially for consistency. Just didn't realize it limited the selection as I'd not ran into that before. Personally, I'd rather avoid the adapter as well.

Welcome aboard! Great looking truck - very nice color

I guess I've just never ran across one that doesn't. Likely due to buying them off the shelf so more generic/multi-fit. The last set I bought were Rain-X Latitudes and they state: Pinch Tab, Large J-Hooks, Large Pin Arms, Narrow Pinch Tab Button, Pinch Tab Button, Small J-Hooks, Small Pin Arms

At least not randomly and if the truck is still running fine (has compression). My powermaster starter overruns but that's just because it's overpowered for my compression.

Hey Dave, Thanks! Good question. This is actually to connect the 7way receptacle harness to the truck up on the rear crossmember. The truck has the factory trailer wiring and when I got it the 7way harness was connected to the truck wiring via 7 bullet connectors. I am making the assumption that the termination of the factory wiring ended in a Ford connector(s) (perhaps 1105, 1951, and another??) but I've never seen one that hasn't been cut up to confirm that. Either way, I personally don't care for a cluster of individual connectors which is what this is meant to solve. I already reduced it to two but like I mentioned it's a bulky solution.

Sounds like the solution is a third truck Truck runs fine once running? Power feels normal? Never heard it cause the starter spin faster and it's just throwing parts at it, but swapping out the fender mounted relay is an option that doesn't leave the truck down.

I think when I ordrered my last set I just used what was recommended on the manufacturers site so no help there. As far as the blade selection goes though, don't all of them still come with the adapter?

That's a really nice offer. I'd suggest starting a thread in the Resources section listing what all you can do and how users can contact you for prices.

Talking about the side vs bottom attaching points? Smart thinking with making a template using other matching holes

Haha thanks guys. Glad it isn't just me. Not embarrassed to say that I think I could watch the printer work for the full 7 hours (for this print) and enjoy every minute of it. Unfortunately there wasn't a pre-existing file for this one as the male connector is designed specifically for the ssvec, and maybe the multiplex(?), boxes rather than to be used as an inline harness connector. The engineer is a great guy to talk to. He explained that the female connector wasn't a true connector and after learning that, I started drawing this one from scratch based on the male connector. The samples arrived last night and were just like he described: a ring with a layer of silicone for sealing the male terminals. The ssvec box snaps around them and they are held in place with a lip. Gary - for this I used Tinkercad by Autodesk. I have a lot of good things to say about Tinkercad. How it approaches 3d design is intuitive and makes it easy to pick up and go for new entrants into 3d design. It's been a long time since the AutoCad courses I took in college, and that was never 3d, so while someday I'd like to take the time and catch up with the more advanced software, so far Tinkercad has served me well.

Good choice - the Essex Mass backed is great and I am really impressed with it. I used the mats like Gary (I used Eastwood) in the 86 so no help with the other but will follow along to learn as a possible option for the 80.

Subscribed. Very interested to see how all this works and pans out. As always - appreciate the detail to documentation.

Thanks Gary - that reminds me I need to put that lsv together... *the following isn't necessarily truck related and if my wife's reaction is an indicator, is interesting to exactly one person on this planet. Started a new TV series the other day so used that couch time to work on a little for-fun project. I am a huge fan of the Metri-Pack 280 series. My main complaint is that the 4 terminal connectors are not stacked 2+2. That 4 wide is bulky and I believe, though never seen one for purchase, they even have 6 gangs that are still flat. Currently my trailer 7way receptacle is using two 4's stacked back to back and as trivial as it is, I just don't like it. Well, enter the ssVEC boxes. The specialized connectors on those use the tanged 280 terminals but are 8 gangs. 4 + 4. The female connector is built into box and is essentially just a ring with a loop for the latch - it's not an actual standalone connector since the terminals are fixed in the box innards. Found this out by talking to the engineer and getting some samples of the rings. This is the connector that plugs into the ssVEC This 8 gang would work great for the trailer wiring so took a stab at making my own male connector and woke up this morning to this on the printer. Is uses the same TPA (terminal position assurance) as the female. It accepts the tanged male terminals that lock in place. This is just using pla so have some petg on order to make the final product in.

Will look for these Jim this upcoming week.

Just saw this post -13mpg! That's incredible. Anywhere close to that is impressive. Jim - happy to. If you do want me to, just shoot me the details or start a thread in the Want section I can reference while in the yard.

Do they make new ones for 87+? If looking for used, I am making a jy run next week so can check some out if needed.

Very helpful post/thread

Don't want to interrupt your troubleshooting but had a couple questions. 1. Screaming only means spinning fast, correct? Not screeching, grinding, clunking, etc? So the only noise is what sounds like it's spinning faster than normal? 2. Does the engine itself crank over faster? May have to disable ignition to get a good feel for the speed. Essentially does it sound like it's just spinning faster or is it really spinning faster? Either way it's probably worth pulling it, giving it a visual inspection, and getting it tested.

Fused is more like it I destroyed one of mine taking it out so when reinstalling it from a parts truck I was liberal with the anti-seize and then packed the "funnel" with grease. But you are absolutely right - remove the nuts but leave the bolts alone unless replacing insulators.