kramttocs

As you know, Gary, I spent part of the afternoon at the jy. First - the wiring for the switched plug. The spare I had on hand wasn't in great shape, with about 16" before it had been chewed on. So I pulled a crossover harness today. One end connector is missing so a good candidate for repurpose. The blue wire splits/slices a couple inches past the connector which I don't think is a bad thing as you could terminate it with another connector and have a future run/acc option. Your call on which harness you'd like and if you want just the blue wire on the latter (vs the whole crossover bundle). Looks like it's 14awg fyi. Second - the horn pad Glad the later one is working. With your gauges and my cubby switches in the same location, I know exactly what you mean about having to make an effort to see that area. I looked in at least 15 of those year trucks and all but two of them were missing the column, wheel, or pad. The two that still had them did have cruise buttons though. They looked like they could be cleaned up but both of them had some bulging or separation around the edges. Maybe they could be glued back? I didn't look too closely as I kept hoping to find another one. If a better option hasn't come up by the time I go back, I'll take a rag to them and do a closer inspection

My preference would be all a single color with that color to match/complement your radio or cluster backlighting. If I am reading it correctly - the Battery switch shown could be either Upper or Lower independent. I mention that because I like the Upper or Lower but am not sure which I like best. The Upper would be better to see the icon at night but on the other hand, I feel like the larger led (upper) would be more noticeable as an indicator that the switch is ON. I think I am leaning towards the Upper Independent.... So for the Battery switch, the icon would always be lit but the bar would light up due to A) automatic parallel or B) forced/temp parallel

Was Shaun actually - http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/New-bench-seat-and-door-panel-options-from-LMC-tp49525.html Looks like there is a buddy seat option but without a seatbelt, doesn't gain you anything

Agreed - and it's a convenience you really miss when they are no longer tacked. I tacked the pedal/firewall one back before painting but haven't done anything to the seat one. If I take the seat out again that may change... I just remembered that I've seen some Supercab reinforcement plates on eBay before (likely found by David ) that I figure now were solving the issue Shaun's referring to.

Beautiful! That truck looks great. Looking forward to more photos.

I hadn't thought about reinforcing that area and look forward to seeing how you do it. Are you thinking about cutting it out of another truck to layer it? If Joe has to add some anchors in the middle of the cab, those will need reinforced so may spark some ideas. I've had a couple go free along with one of the pedal nuts. After looking at my broke ones I figured the welds aren't really there for structural integrity (if so, I agree they are definitely lacking ) but they do make it nice so it's a one man job

Not looking like we have a good personal experience answer yet on the 98+ so measurements may be it. Gary has a 2015 SuperCrew, I have a 2015 SuperCab, and no doubt others on here have other years. Someone (Scatch?) mentioned awhile back a site that now sold seats and a universal base. Can't recall if that was LMC nor do I recall if that was bucket only. Even if a bench I doubt it had a center 3 point. I just wonder if that base could be easily modified vs making your own.

Thanks. I was assuming it was but wanted to confirm we didn't need to consider anything else that might impact the potential swap.

Joe - what is in your truck currently?

Supposedly a "durable, flexible silicone rubber".

That's a really good point on seeing the gauges. My understanding is that you could use the wheel up until 91 on the bullnose column. Didn't Nick and George have this setup? If so, they may be aware of any gotchas.

Sugru is what came to my mind first but never used it and not sure if it would stick to this type of plastic

With that one being 87 I am guessing the 'A' frame refers to the newer design:

I don't think I've ever seen a tan one like this before but still with rosewood. Application? Gary - do you have a photo of the kind you are looking for? Struggling to picture a black one with cruise.

Agreed! Looks excellent

I don't think so at all! I am glad you brought it up again as I enjoy seeing the designs. It's a fun but tough project - so many different options, ideas, and preferences making it tough to choose just one .

That one looks really promising. Haven't heard of the brand and not many reviews but the question responses sound like it's working well for them. In Use only LEDs is nice also although not as important now that you're going switched. Yep - just need the piece that clips into the back of the fuse block. Not positive if the wire is long enough as is to reach the ash tray but it might be. Once you have that you can install a breaker or fuse. There is also a spacer you can install (from Broncos) if using a fuse although not required. I am using the fuse since I have the keyless window module and I believe I have an extra of those spacers also.

Very neat! Subscribed.

From a switch ignition standpoint , I really like the power window idea. Clean and 'just works'. Would just need the fuse box clip for window circuit. I believe I have a spare if needed. I was semi joking with the position comment although it would be some I'd personally consider. I like being able to leave my phone plugged in and charging, if really low, when I have to run into a store. So if it's just the parasitic draw that you are trying to eliminate I was thinking you could install a contact switch (like on gloveboxes) so that when nothing is plugged in and the tray closed it would, via relay, kill power. If the door is open it would be powered.

I think you should have it switched based on the ash tray position

Nice work John! Some good discussion here Not really the direction you're going but when that thread was active, I was tempted to merged these two - make the red the nose and the blue contain the name/URL. I have no Photoshop skills so never happened For some reason ratdude's image isn't working for me but referring to the black/while grill on page 3 of that thread. Will try to fix it later when on my PC.

I see - I didn't realize you were moving the hole instead of just enlarging it. Step bit wouldn't help you there. Maybe?

Nice progress! Sounds like a good use case for a step bit. Glad you had your fingers away when using the hole saw I like the idea of replacing the rivets with screws (I went back with rivets after coating the metal) but will the metal tray fit in with the nuts or are you not putting it back in? Edit: oh, nevermind - I see you said you aren't drilling out the rivets on the "real" one so doesn't matter.

Thanks Bill! Just did some reading up on those. So the handle looking thing isn't actually a handle but a bi-metallic strip that opens it up. Interesting.

Haha nope - we're on the same page. You just beat me to the posting Good point though about RV's playing by their own rules.