kramttocs

Yes - very nice and CLEAN trucks! Glad to have you

I am using their 460 alternator mount after removing the air pumps. 10156B The brackets are well made although required a couple extra washers to get the belts to line up. Support was very hard for me to reach prior to purchase although when I did get ahold of a gentleman there he was very knowledgeable about the 460 pulley setup.

AC/DC Wire and Supply https://www.ebay.com/str/acdcwireandsupply https://www.acdcwireandsupply.com/ Thanks

Yikes. I didn't check the price. So how's that Tyco one looking?

Crydom was just a random one I found last night so know nothing about them but out of curiosity I called their tech line and he agreed it wasn't right for this case. He suggested the CWD2490-10. It's up to 2.2HP.

Ends within the hour. Currently at 52 + shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Built-in-CB-Radio-Microphone-Handset-Mic-70s/324377778587

I'm not enough of an electronics engineer to know what kind of SSR the Crydom one is, and the fact that it doesn't discuss inductive loads suggests to me that it isn't designed for them. This is an interesting topic - following along and digesting. Haven't researched these beyond a casual look at them from an arduino perspective and that didn't deal with HP or loads like a compressor. Shame the crydom won't work - the design looked more like something to survive in an automotive application than some of other (ice cube) ones I found.

That's my thinking. Let it creep into those seams as a better base for the periodic oil/wax applications. I used it in the supercab rear section (trying to prevent the subject of this thread) before I installed the interior and it dripped a bit through a pinch weld under the truck which made me wish I'd used it on the rear wheel well. Afraid now it'd run somewhere visible.

If I ever have one of these trucks painted again or looks don't matter like with my 1ton I would research getting some Eastwood Inner Frame coating (or similar) that comes with a wand and before sanding the truck down spray it in the: Doors Tailgate Rear wheel wells Cab corners (inside rear panel for supercabs) Cargo light Vertical runs of the cowl Bed back corners Bed support channels etc Some of these don't necessarily have to be done before painting but I used this stuff and considering how easily it runs, I'd be scared to risk it finding a way onto the new paint.

Thanks Steve. That's what the Amsoil tech recommended as well over the 80w-90.

I looked into this awhile back when trying to figure out why my bracket seemed off. 1980 had it but it was a Z-shaped little piece for the aux battery. The one for sale here (E1TZ) is used for both the aux battery and the diesel battery. Wonder if they had issues with the E0TZ or just wanted something more substantial for the future diesel offering and why have two designs that do the same thing.

Is this the one that Nick was looking for? Passenger side with the Jurassic Park wording.

Thanks Jim - yep, your comment was what the search picked up on. What was the reason? I've done some reading as I haven't ever done other than stock. Seems like newer Sterlings use the 75-140.

This thread comes up in the search results with a good title so continuing it... For the 1986 10.25 rear diff non-LS, the book calls for 7.5 pints of 80w-90. Looking at Amsoil Severe Gear and that site lists: 80w-90, 75w-90, 7w-110. Do you guys stick with stock?

How about a #2 cable going from the inverter to the frame via the same hole but on the passenger side? Or even using that other hole we talked about (still on passenger side).

Congrats! I am sure it was stressful with the new restrictions and unfortunate that some family members couldn't attend but the photo looks like a great location and s'mores at a reception sounds perfect! Gary - good point on the powder coating. I have no need for them but if anyone else is looking, I can snag them on my next trip. The handles inside the doors were a similar style but I didn't look too closely.

What about shimming up the caddy 1/4"? That way you gain 1/4" for the inverter but can still use the trim holes and have 1/4" engagement. As we discussed offline, the cable management/route plan sounds like a winner, especially with heavier gauge cable. The inner pinch weld already has some holes in it that might work for clamps with more being drilled if needed - I had to drill a few for my running boards here.

What about applying a bit of panel adhesive around the flange before inserting it?

Yes - the door mirror mounts use them. The nos mirrors I bought came with a nut and bolt to set them. I haven't watched the video above yet to see how they do it. HF sells a rivet gun looking tool to set them. Wasn't HF but this is the method I've used. Like Dane, I've had mixed results with them spinning. Great when they don't but extremely frustrating when they do. Update: I was thinking about it and on the handful that spun on me, I recall seeing what looked like loctite which almost guarantees spinning so can't blame the nutsert for that.

Thanks Gary!

I like the nutsert idea if taking that route. Since these will be smaller bolts (vs 7/16) and that single layer of metal won't have the rigidity like the cab mount would, going back to the tabs coming down from the top would keep it solid. Bottom wouldn't slide and top wouldn't lean

So drill through both layers of cab where that cavity is and out through the bottom?

Had a little time this morning so despite the nasty weather occurring this weekend, went for a stroll through the jy. Some new big trucks had came in so picked up a 4k tach and FORD radio bezel. One of them also had the flat assist handles I've seen mentioned although they were pretty scratched up.

Title taken from listing so unsure about F250-only accuracy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1986-Ford-F-250-Spare-Tire-Carrier-Bolt-Nut-Retainer-WILL-ONLY-FIT-F-250-/124001788918?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Haven't been under a reg cab to look in awhile but isn't the driver side nut underneath somewhat obscured by the side tank? If the nut was fixed, I would go that route but requiring two people to remove and replace a caddy is what is giving me pause. Granted if you never remove it, it's a non issue Sorry, I don't mean a plate to go across the whole caddy, just something with some surface area (like the large washer on the cab bolt). With the bottom fixed like that and no taller than the caddy is, I wouldn't think there'd be much forward movement allowed at the top but that's an 'in-person' call. Update: Don't get me wrong, I really like the idea of using existing mounting points for the caddy. That's why the double hex stud is appealing, to me at least, as it uses those points but allows removal of the caddy without having to have two people. Not sure those exist in that size/length outside of diy though.