kramttocs

I looked for some a few years ago for an 85 c&c and checked into uboltsdirect. Truck is currently sitting in a field with no rear sway bar but I remember feeling good about that company fwiw.

Good find! Yep - my 86 xlt lariat came with cranks. Are those door panels as nice as they look in that photo?

If you get a chance, I wouldn't mind seeing a photo of that. No rush

Well done! That looks great

That's a neat idea! I wonder about sewing magnets to it to hold it it in place?

Similar to the glasses with LEDs in them that Bill posted about previously, there are these things: Just got back from our family gift exchange where I received a 3 pair pack. Pretty impressed for what they are. Here is a shot of a junction box I was working on with no camera flash. Sure beats the flashlight in the mouth method.

Will non-admins see the 'assigned to...' note at the top of the thread? It's a shame it doesn't work at the post level. That would be better for things like Project threads where a specific topic is just a part of the whole. Still, this shows promise. Good find!

So it is assigned thread-level rather than post-level?

Email received. Reassigned to John at level 2.

Welcome! Great looking Bronco. Check this out: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1122571-how-to-install-cab-lights.html If you need anything else on them, let me know and I can take measurements off mine. My 1 ton came with them from the factory but added them to my 86. I used rivnuts and added grommets in the wire holes to deter any water that may creep under them someday.

Let me know if you need more. The block off plate has an aligning pin on it (why there is a small hole).

Here you can see the clip. It's a single line clip that is the same used on my mechanical pump 460 and 400. Here is the routing. Once you get the two hardlines in place, the routing presents itself really. You can see I ziptied mine also. I have a few items on my jy list so can look for a block off plate/bracket if you want.

I'll grab a photo tomorrow unless someone beats me to it. There is a plastic clip on top of the frame to hold them although most I've seen aren't held well by them any longer. They remain in place held by the rubber lines and the clips on the inside of the frame further back. If you're improvising, then one thing that comes to mind to replace the plastic clip would be those metal clamps on the older style metal electrical boxes. Protect it with some hose like you are doing already. If you need the clamp that goes on the fuel pump block off plate, let me know.

Happy New Year everyone!

Well done! I agree - I think the shifting tube would be too long to come out the bottom unless one wanted to chop it in pieces as it comes out.

Thanks Jim! Forgot that you tested this but now that you mention it I recall a discussion how one needed to be careful if replacing the fender mounted relay with another offering.

Agreed! Well done and well documented

Welcome aboard! Great looking truck and only 58k Really like the mirrors - looks like they have the goseneck extensions (fits with the trailer option). Also: like the username. First glance made me think of the similarly named nature savvy raccoon I used to get magazines of

Welcome aboard! Looking forward to your project

Thanks for the reply Scott. My brother in-law just happened to call right after I posted this, and he is a technical guy (at work, and at home) and he said that he ran 14ga wire...like the rest of us, lol, because he had it on hand, but he said he also tested it at the same time. He said that the relay only drew about 2.5amps (in rush) and once closed was even less.(That was not on a Ford starter, but a similar GM starter...could be completely different for all I know). The reason I was curious is that the factory trigger wire on my '84, and this '80, is really small...maybe 18ga? Anyway, I understand that bigger is certainly better. Maybe I'll run the 14ga that I have and test it myself and see what the meter says. If 14ga is not enough, it's no problem to change it out. Heck, I don't even know if the engine will run, but I'll probably give the starter a good workout trying. 2.5amps. Good to have a number for it, even if from a GM starter. I was hoping to find something like that when searching but never saw any reference to what the solenoid pulled. With that number, hard to find a reason to not use the on hand 14. Often hear the 'grind it til you find it' phrase but not many about starting... how about 'turn it til you burn it'?

12awg is the smallest I've seen in any official doc (including the Powermaster paper mine came with). I know, doesn't help with the 14awg question My vote would be with the 10. I went with 8 since, similar to your 14, I had it on hand. Update: Just did some more browsing to see if I could find anything other than 12 or 10 and did come across 18awg in a diagram. Was for a fox body. I'd still do the 10

Thanks! That one is definitely going on the watch list.

I haven't removed that channel before but heat worked well to soften the tape on the vent window allowing it to be pulled out. As for while you are in there: weatherstripping, sweeps, and greasing the channel/regulator. As needed.

You missed my reply/confession. 😩🤣 Oops. Must have crossed paths going to space and back