Gary Lewis

Doesn't inspire confidence, does it? But the alternative, going with Motorcraft, is 4 times as much money! I guess I'll gamble. Well, w/o the wherewithall to wrap up the fuel system I moved on to little things. First was getting the PDB back together and mounted after going on the hunt for the disconnect in power to the fuel pump. Then I put the passenger's side fender liner back in/on, which had been taken loose to allow getting the HVAC plenum off and on. This time I included all of the intended fasteners for a change. Having realized that some of the fasteners on that side had been missing for some time I checked the driver's side. Yup, two of them were also missing - but aren't now. Maybe has been defeated again? Then it was to the PCV system. Jim & Bill know, although the rest of you might not, that the HD valve covers I have use a screw-in PCV valve. I haven't found a replacement, but this one appears to be ok so I'll use it. But I don't have the hose to connect it to a carb 'cause that never happened. So I found a 3/8" hose that will work, although I need a 90 degree hose barb as it won't clear the air cleaner since the valve point up and doesn't have the usual 90.

Sounds like that's exactly what I need. In fact, you may have given me everything I need here already - I had neglected to ask about the LED, but we're hoping to use that as well since we'd like to avoid goobering up the dash with a bunch of additional switches and lights.Actually...would it be too much trouble to throw up the page(s) that cover the switch and light? You've probably told me everything I should know, but sometimes it helps to just look at a picture. Oh - and as for Paul, the main question I had for him was regarding what front suspension changes, if any, he made to handle the Cummins. It could be moot for all I know - I haven't actually looked up the weights of the engines in question yet. Of course any other insight he has from his experience would be welcome as well. And speaking of the transmission, James picked it from from KY this weekend: Man! That is one looooooooong combination! And I thought an E4OD was long. You'd best take some measurements to see that you can get it under there. I know on Dad's truck I had to mod the floor as the E4 was too long for a Bullnose regular cab. Hopefully it'll fit under a Supercab.As for the schematics, I can do that tomorrow. No problemo.On the springs, I think Paul said that the replacement springs he put under it earlier worked. But I'd have to go back to FTE to find that info. Maybe Paul will come on and answer the question. But he replaced a 300 with the diesel.

I dunno, Jim. I like speakers with a second driver for highs, and this one doesn't seem to have one. Or at least I don't think it does. And there are no reviews on Amazon. But Parts Express has reviews and they aren't stellar. Plus, Crutchfield doesn't seem to have them. I'm skeptical.

Just texted Paul a link to both the show and this thread. We shall see.

Missed any comment about Paul/Rogue_Wulff. He doesn't live all that far from me in Sapulpa. He hasn't been on for a while but I do need to contact him to remind him about the show. Is there a question for him?

Gary, does that shop manual include electrical diagrams, or is that a separate manual? We'd like to reuse the overdrive lockout button in the truck if possible, so if you have any info on how that's wired (or even what the wire colors are) that would be very helpful. Matthew - The FSM doesn't have much electrical, but in the section on the E4OD I see some circuitry. And the FSM has a section on the 4R70W. But you are using a 47RH. So would either of these sections help? Also, I have a '96 EVTM and can put pages up from it. Maybe that's what you need? In that I see that the Transmission Control Switch has a red/yellow feeding it power, a tan/white that tells the PCM that the button has been pushed, and a white/light green that controls the LED which "Indicates that 4th gear has been disengaged. May also flash if monitored sensor/acutators or circuits have failed."

Good point! I didn't realize that either.

If you read that advert correctly then its ok. It doesn't say "full-sized Bronco". Fits: 83/85 R — 4 cyl. gas-non EFI 83/85 B-R — 6 cyl. 171 gas And, for those that might not know: R = little Ranger B = little Bronco

Yep, I probably have one of those tucked away somewhere. Used them when riding bikes. They work nicely.

Jim - I have the master and booster off of Big Blue, and the pair off of Huck. Either are yours if you want them.

Peeling onion layers? Yep, stinking onion layers. Smells more like gasoline. Just went on the Amazon site and said I needed to return this FDM and get another. Apparently the way I did it was wrong as when I got to the "buy" phase the price had gone from $83 to $117. I called Amazon and the lady there canceled the return, contacted the seller, and told them to replace it. No charge. That will take a few days, but at least it is in the works. Meanwhile I've dropped the skid plate, but I don't think I'll lower the tank and take the FDM out until I have the new one - assuming I get it before returning this one. Otherwise I'll have even more gas fumes in the shop unless I tape the opening shut. Have I mentioned how much I hate taking things apart that I just put together?

Amen, brother!

When you eliminate the inert gas from the fuel mix you need to change the curve in the distributor for the ignition timing. The fuel/air/inert gas mix burns more slowly than w/o the inert gas, so they add a lot of advance. In other words, they had to light the fire much earlier to get everything burning at the right time as opposed to w/o the exhaust gas in the mix. Fortunately most of that advance was done via the vacuum advance since it was mainly at high vacuum situations when the EGR valve is to open. And most, if not all, of the vacuum advance units are adjustable. You stick a very small Allen wrench, 1/8" I think, in where the hose connects and turn the wrench counterclockwise to reduce the advance. You'll want to do that after you get it together and drive it. Take someone along with good hearing and listen for pinging at light throttle. If you have some take a turn or two of the wrench and go again. Do that until you have no pinging.

Bill - That's good to know about the pump. I'd read that, but didn't understand it. However, it makes more sense now. Thanks! As for the next test, I popped the return off the front tank and then blew air through the return hose from the engine down and out at the front tank. No blockage. So the FDM is bad. Actually that's the hardest bit to fix as the skid plate has to come off, then the tank has to be lowered. Oh well, y'all know where to find me.

Welcome. At least you won't worry that you mis-advertised them.

Gary if it is a big hassle to look them up then don't worry, but it would be good to know since I'm selling them and would be good to list what they fit. In the 1973/79 MPC I see D5UZ 5775-B fitting only the 75/79 E250/350 (Cutaway) - - w/7 1/4" high sidemember

Looks like the regumlator is good. This test is with the return run into an empty gas can, and I was easily able to dial the pressure to the carb down to 5 psi. Meanwhile I blew 30 psi air into the return and it went no where. IOW, the pressure just built up and blew back at me when I pulled the nozzle out. So it looks like I have a bad fuel delivery module. I'm going to see if I can pull the return hose off the FDM and blow through the line itself to prove it isn't blocked. Also, note that the pressure fluctuates at the end of the test. You can't really tell but the sound of the fuel pump changed as well. I'm not sure if that means it is sucking air, or if something else is going on. Thoughts?

D8TA 5775-CA is PN #D5UZ 5775-B. And that fits 1980/through at least 1989 E350 (Super Wagon), only. The 1980/through at least 1989 F—U150/350 - - 4/W/D - - exc. Sterling E6 axles -(10 1/4" ring gear) take E0TZ 5775-C. EDIT: This is for 1980 on. That part also surely fits several 1975 and later trucks. Do you want to know those as well?

Yes, fully agree. Praying for safety.

Yes, that's what I was thinking. And I like the little arrow on the relay showing that it is in the quiescent state and that when energized it'll swing to the other position. Too many diagrams leave you guessing.

Yes! What you said reminded me of the section of the manuals you and I posted. Mine is OCR'd so I was easily able to copy the text, which says: So, the FDM could easily be the problem as if the shuttle selector valve doesn't open the regulator can't work. And running the return into the filler neck or even into the 5 gallon gas can would prove that. However, I'd have to pull the line. I wonder if I couldn't put 5 gallons of gas in the rear tank and try it? Surely I wouldn't have a problem with both FDMs? As for the regulator you mentioned, I don't think that will work. I need to be recirculating the fuel to keep it cool, so need a return-style regulator. Besides, these pumps put out ~40 psi and Holley says that's too much for their original regulators, so might be for the one you are thinking of.

I think that will work. But let me map through it: When the driving light switch is on the upper left relay will pick and provide power to the bottom relay's pin 30 If the low beams are on the bottom relay will be picked so the power goes to pin 87 and not to the driving lights If the low beams are not on the bottom relay will not be picked and power goes out 87a to the driving lights But, can't you do it with two relays? Put power to pin 30 of the bottom relay and move the output to the driving lights to pin 87. Then use the driving light switch to provide power to that relay's pin 85. If the low beams are off then the relay's coil will see a very low resistance to ground and it will pick. If the low beams are on then the relay's coil will have battery voltage on both sides and won't pick.

Andre - It looks amazing! But I'm not seeing the color of the car. Just the black. What am I missing?

Cory - I'll check the cross reference when I get to the shop after while since that ID # doesn't show up in the MPC. That's not surprising as most of the time Ford didn't put the ID # in. Anyway, I'll look up the ID #, get the part #, and see what it fits and let you know.

Oh, I'm sure I've already overthought it. And I'm not done! No, this FDM is a brand new one from Spectra. It and the tank were purchased separately but are the right ones for a '95 F350. The rear tank and FDM came as a unit. So everything is new, including the lines and all of the connections. I'm with you on testing the regulator. But I'm not on pressure on the return line. I would think that both FDM's would have their returns closed until power was on them. Else you'd return fuel to the wrong tank. Yes?