Gary Lewis

It is amazing how things are shrinking. I have a magnifying hood with LEDs that is three times the size of those glasses. And probably doesn't work as well.

Speaking of getting some extra parts sold, I took the cats from the 1995 donor to the junkyard with me today, and darn it if they didn't pay me $90 bucks for them!! I knew that they were worth money, but I didn't know it was that much...lol. This old '95 donor truck is getting better all the time! (On the same topic of the parts, I have a buyer for a spare steering wheel I had hanging on the wall, so I should be shipping that this week.) As for the plans morphing...yes, they have. As you've seen above, the entire body for the '95 F150 is now gone. Sold it to a guy I know that is into that gen trucks more so than the Bulls and bricks. The little 5.0L is coming out and the 300/6 is going in, and then the Bullnose cab and front end is going on it. I think it's going to be a cool little truck. 300 six with a 5spd and 3.55 gears should work nicely together. I've been wanting a 4x4 Flareside with a 300 anyway, so I might as well do it the way I want it from the start (subject to my plans morphing again for unforseen reasons...lol). So I went to the junkyard this afternoon and the old '86 gave up her frame horns so that they can be grafted on to my 1995 frame. I felt kind of bad ruining the frame on that truck, but it's been there forever and will no doubt be crushed soon as it has been picked pretty clean (which reminds me, I might have to scavenge the core support out of it...lol). I scribed the horns so that I have a registration point for the height when welding them in place. I plan to do this before I put the body back on, so it has to be right. I'm going to install them as cleanly as possible so that they look (sort of) like they belong there. Don't want to ruffle any feathers during MVI. Jim, I forgot to tell you, I found one at work. Seems I may have suggested that the shop buy one a while ago and I forgot about it...lol. I went digging for a big impact gun the other day and found it. Let me tell ya, I am in love with this tool. It is so handy for removing scale and cleaning around rivet heads and layered edges, etc. I put a full hour on it today, and I'll be putting many more on it in the future. It's good because it is going to eliminate the need for sand blasting in a lot of areas. I'm going to needle scale, wire cup, and then go straight to the Ospho, then prime and paint. I can't wait! The frame will look kind of nasty to you southern guys, but it's really not that bad for up here in the land of rust. I'm going to replace the spring hangers...definitely the rear set, and likely the fronts as well, and I'm going to have to repair a couple problem areas, but it's very very fixable. It will look like a million bucks when it's all cleaned up and painted. Stay tuned for more. I'm going to enjoy this. This isn't going to happen over night of course, but I have a lot of work to do now that is very cheap, but is labor intensive...and I like that. Keeps me busy, and I enjoy renewing rusty stuff. Sounds like a good plan, Cory. The truck you've been wanting! And you going to have fun getting it all together. Lots of work, but it will be worth it. As for the core support, those things are sometimes hard to find. And the six cylinder one is different due to the width of the radiator. I think the MPC says you are supposed to fill the extra area in with tire carcasses, so it can be done w/o changing them out. How are you attaching the frame horns? Are you butt welding them or fish plating them?

Yep, we overlapped.

They are burned in mind as well. It was AWFUL! And there I was so far, far away. I think the Brits I was with thought I was crazy for being so emotional. Here's praying that nothing like that happens this time around.

I don't think it will hurt anything to just try it. If there's oil in there the gas will clean it out.

Ok, now I need to think through what the next steps are. And it seems to me that now that I know the fuel is being supplied through the filter that there are only three possible causes of the problem I'm seeing of high pressure to the carb: Swapped Lines: Perhaps somehow, in spite of the visual inspection I've done, the supply and return lines got swapped between the filter and the regulator. So to prove that I guess I should pull what I think is the supply line from the regulator and turn the pump on, briefly.Return Plugged: If the return is plugged then I guess the regulator can't work, so to prove it is open I need to pull that hose off the regulator and blow compressed air through it. But, does the pump have to be on to open the port to allow fuel to return? Surely it does or with the returns wyed the fuel could go into the wrong tank. Right? Maybe I should do as Bill suggesting and run the return into the neck of the tank to ensure it isn't a valve in the fuel delivery module blocking the return?Bad Regulator: If #'s 1 & 2 check out ok then the regulator is probably bad. With the supply and return lines off the regulator I can remove it for testing. I was thinking of using air, and since this is a return style regulator I'll just vent the "return" and put a gauge on the outlet. Will that work? Venting the "return" is making me question this approach. Help me think through this, please!

I'll be praying for y'all with those two storms headed your way. I remember being in the UK and watching Katrina hit back in 2005 and feeling such a huge sense of loss. I knew many people in that area since I'd had employees with DuPont and Conoco throughout that region. So I'll be praying for them and for you, George & Nick. By the way, when you talk with Rock Auto tell them about our rating and review system?

Looks like I have a duff regulator, although I do want to do some more thinking and testing before I take it out. And, I'd like your thoughts. Here's the proof. I put a push button switch on a pair of alligator clips with 6' of wire. Then I put the clips across the oil pressure switch, fed it down under the truck, pulled the outlet hose on the fuel pump, and pushed the button. Looks pretty conclusive to me, but what about you'uns?

Yep, I'm anxious to see the results. But I'm not sure I'd put carb cleaner in it. Not 100% sure what that would do to a plastic float. I think I'd put gas in.

Yes, we have changing seasons. We've seen 114F some summers and -14F one winter. But it hasn't been that hot nor cold in years. We used to have snow every winter, but we've not had a decent snow in several years. But the leaves will turn various colors in October and fall off. The grass will go dormant, and lots of things will be brown. But our shortest daylight is 9 hours and 41 minutes. Compared to your 24 hours of darkness from December 5th to January 7th. However, every place on earth has the same amount of daylight in a year. It is just that some get it all in the summer and none in the winter.

Congrat's!!! Just in time for the long winter? (You are losing 8 1/2 minutes of daylight per day right now, and we are losing 2 minutes. )

Bill - Depending on how "in the late 60s" you mean, I was doing the same thing at the same time. Graduated college in May of '69, having bought a new Super Bee in April, and worked for the power company in Wichita on a rotating schedule. When we came off of Graveyards onto Daylights we had a 3-day weekend. But no pay differential.

This is a Ford show. Not a Bullnose show. As said, I’ll encourage Scott to enter his truck. And hopefully we will see an early Bronco - with a rock slider?

Don't know where to record errors. Errors in the EVTM's I've handled by correcting the page and placing it back on the site. But errors in catalogs are another story. If I have that page posted I could correct it and put it on.

Yes, we are a family. Scott certainly has helped me, and while he doesn't do much on the forum he is "family" in another way - we attend church together. So I'm happy to help him. I'm going to push him today to enter his truck in the "show". Which reminds me, Jim - where is your entry?

"Having you on" is what I would have expected a Brit to say.

I'm beyond the limits of my understanding of audio equipment ratings. Maybe someone else can help us. Use the spare tire support to pull stumps? Or, maybe, use the spare tire, which is the subject of the sentence, to pull stumps. Yep, surely that's correct. Got the Sgt Shultz reference.

DUH! You are right, the choke is in the wrong spot! So, I need to fix that awa surely lots of other things. Yes, please mark things up and I'll do the editing. The service was actually for my cousin, who was more like a sister to me. (Her father left when she was young and my father helped raise her.) But the service was one of the best I've ever seen. Two of her sons spoke, as did other people, and both hit it out of the park. And while not everyone could be there, many got to watch via Facebook Live - including my kids. But yes, today is "Church Day". However, after church WelderScott has asked that I help him bleed the brakes on his '78 - which has the old cast iron master. I've toyed with drilling and tapping the cover from one of my masters, which will probably never get used anyway, and using that to put air pressure on via my whizz bang setup. Would have to put a hole in the gasket, but that shouldn't be a problem. I wonder if the lids interchange? Anyway, hound me!

I don't have my head around it either. But one thing that hasn't been said, and which I think is true, is that the ratio between RMS and peak depends on the shape of the waveform. If all music was nice pure sine waves the square root of 2 would apply. But when you get into multi-instrument sound you have percussion laid on top of guitar, which is on top of voice, and nothing is a pure sine wave. So, how do they measure amps and speakers? Is it with a nice sine wave? I'm guessing so as that's the only "constant" out there. If so, does everyone use the same frequency? On what hurts a speaker, I think there are several things. First, I think they are limited to the maximum excursion they can handle on an ongoing basis. And that's probably a function of what surround they are using. Another is how much heat the voice coil can take. And then there's deformation of the cone, which would ultimately cause it to fail.

Haha! Well, as long as she keeps letting me gather and work on rusty trucks, I’ll haul and deliver whatever she asks me to! I’m back in the shop for the day working on the ‘95 chassis and then going to the junkyard later on. She’s sleeping in and then going hiking and whale watching with a girlfriend! I’ll post up some pics of the chassis later today! We've had a nice summer - plenty enough hot days, more rain than usual, and the last several days have been much cooler than normal. Enough variation to make you appreciate it. Anyway, Cory, you are making good progress. I'm glad the frame appears to be what you need, albeit with a bit of work. That seems to be an unusual thing up there. And you are getting some of the extra parts sold. I've not done that and sure need to do so. Kudos for that. But, have your plans morphed? What parts are going where now? The dust is starting to settle so you are now getting a better picture of what you have.

Jim - At first glance I thought you were right on the relay diagram on the Chokes tab, which is the one you are talking about - right? But then I looked again and I think what has happened is that the "87" and "87a" characters have moved too far to the left. If they were slid over to the right they'd be right. Right? Isn't 87a the quiescent position and 87 the powered position? I have to look that up every single time. That diagram looks to be one I drew and it is drawn poorly. Very poorly. But you are right that we need to improve the 3G page. However, at the moment I'm having a hard time keeping up. In fact, I'm not. So can you take a stab at writing up what you think we need? I can draw up whatever schematics we need to fit what you come up with. If you don't have the time I'd certainly understand. I'm "there" myself.

That would, indeed, be a better mousetrap! I'm in!

You guys wear me out just thinking about getting up at those times! I love the tutone blue truck! I'm hoping Big Blue will polish out a bit better when I finally take the time.

In a very logical place: Documentation/Electrical/Alternators. The pulley info is on the tab Output Vs RPM, and the test sheet is on the tab DB Electrical 130 Amp Test Results.

Something seems awry. Doing some simple math, dividing the Direct # by the OD #, gives the following ratios. I think the 1.31 - 1.39 ratios are probably within the limit of your tach and ability to read it. But the readings from 40 to 55 are very suspect - unless you shifted gears. Speed Direct OD Ratio 40 1800? 1100 1.64 45 1500 1250 1.2 50 1700 1700? 1.0 55 1900 1900? 1.0 60 2100 1600 1.31 65 2250 1700 1.32 70 2500 1800 1.39 75 2700 2000 1.35 80 3000 2200 1.36