Gary Lewis

Bad news on the sway bar bits. But it looks like you solved the problem. And I see what you did on the seat release. As for the speakers, I'm no longer an audiophile, but there are at least two ratings that need consideration. One is the max power one that you mentioned, and another is speaker sensitivity. This article does a decent job of explaining that. To say it another way, a massive resistor would be able to safely handle a large amp, but as you couldn't hear anything it wouldn't be very useful. Instead you are looking for a speaker that is good at turning power into sound. And the better a speaker is at doing that the lower its power rating needs to be. Also you need to consider the frequency range. But you have a woofer and a sub-woofer, so you don't need to go too low. And if you are talking rear speakers you don't really need a lot of highs. But you want an even frequency response from something like 100 to 10 Khz.

Looking good, Bill. I've always liked the Infinity systems. I'll bet your system will sound great!

You know who guessed IAC. You gave him the symptoms and before you said you'd Googled it he said "IAC". However, you didn't tell him before he guessed that you'd already fixed it.

That is a mystery! Dampness shouldn't cause that. I'm glad it is now working correctly, but.....

Yes, I’m wondering about the regulator. I have one of their lesser model return style that I might try if I find that the flow is in the right direction. If it works then that one is bad.

I could put them up on the site. Can you scan them at maybe 600 dpi?

I wouldn't have said anything except that Rusty brought up the 150A threshold which as mentioned is what I kept finding outside of forums. And so far the setup is working for me. I don't think I've seen Ryan's test but I am not questioning them, in the same way I am not questioning Gary's powermaster experience. Is it my experience? No. Will it be my experience the next time I fire up the truck? Maybe, who knows. I am not trying to peddle Powermaster or get their name tattooed in a heart on my arm but since you brought it up and seem to have a negative opinion of them I wouldn't mind getting more details on it. If I recall correctly the one on BB had a bad bearing when Gary got it. Gary is there more to it that I don't know? I wouldn't think an alternator with a bad bearing is enough to swear them off. Maybe we should add them to the Vendor ratings thread? I don't remember what all was wrong with the Powermaster alternator on Big Blue. A bearing certainly, but I'm thinking there was something else. So I called them to get the parts and they said "We don't sell parts, you have to send it back in." At that point I put it in the box as I'm not going to run something that I can't replace in the field. So, am I "off" Powermaster? Alternators yes. Starters no. Why? Because the alternator isn't wired in a way that I could easily get a replacement. But the starters are. Any PMGR starter will replace it. So I'll run a 3G and know I can get a replacement anywhere.

Ok folks, better late than never. (Actually, better never late, but....) Here are the nominations for the September 2020 ToM: Angelo's father's red w/a bull bar: Brian/Dee's Bullnose: Steve/Old55pete's 86 Bronco: Myrl/myrl883's Parts Truck: And George & Nick's Brutus:

Oh, on a positive note the battery seems to be coming up nicely. It is at about 12.7 volts on the 10 amp setting so is nearing full charge. And, there was an interesting result when I filled the charger's switch to the 50 amp mode - voltage climbed quickly to 14.5 volts. However previously when I did that the voltage only went up a few tenths of a volt. That seems to say to me that previously the battery was converting the current to stored potential via the chemical process, where now it isn't able to do that and the voltage climbs. Does that make sense?

Thanks, Bill. But no. I'm soooooo close with this arrangement and don't see enough advantage to make all the changes needed to go to the '95 lines. Now for the morning report: I was wrong when I thought I was wrong. And, as we all know, two wrongs don't make a right. I traced the lines from the tank through the fuel filter to the regulator, and I did not swap supply with return as I thought. In the first pic below the supply is the lower line going through the filter and emerging from behind the crossmember as the top line/line closest to you. In the second pic it is still the line closest to you and curves up to be the inboard line at the two connectors. And in the last pic the inboard line and goes to one of the two inlet/outlet ports on the regulator. Then the return line comes from the middle port and goes back down to the tanks. So I'm at a loss. I think tomorrow I'll pull the filter and confirm that fuel comes from the left side in the first pic, which is the tank side. Maybe I wired power to the pumps backwards?

I did a Google search and found the FittingsSpace, and the exact two fittings shown above. Both of which have Dynapex part numbers. I'll call them and see if they can ship faster.

I found it on their site, thanks. But their site is bonkers! No way to even grab the URL to share it as it only shows "search". Anyway, that one is a "Bundy Fitting 5/16" or 7.89mm Male to 3/8" or 10mm Barb OD Hose ID". And that's what I want. But I'm not finding part #qbd2b_05m_06 anywhere. However, using their terminology of I'm finding a few hits: Stainless Dynapex Plastic Unfortunately both of those have a two week lead time. But we are getting closer! Thanks.

Rusty - Most people don't seem to understand how to use RTV. Or the difference between a thin coat to help the gasket seal or a huge bead to fill a void. Nor do they understand how slippery RTV is until it has cured. So they put some on a valve cover gasket and torque it down and the gasket slips out. Your guidance to let it harden overnight and then torque it down is the key. I use a big bead of RTV on the China walls at the front and back of the block, but tighten the bolts of the intake finger tight and let it cure over night. Then you can torque it and have a good seal. Otherwise it'll squish out, as you said. But one more thing is key - the parts must be CLEAN. RTV isn't going to stick to oily parts. So if the two parts are oily and the RTV cures it will probably still slip out. Not "squish" but "slip".

Thanks. But I've used a bunch of 3/8" line to 5/16" female Bundy connectors. They are readily available. In fact, Ford used them on Huck as the supply was 3/8" line and the fuel filter was 5/16". But finding the male version seems to be the hard part.

I think the buzzer gets my attention better than the chime. The chime is a lot less "abrasive" than the buzzer. As for playing music with it, that's interesting. But even less abrasive. Then there's playing music with a computer. Back when I started with computers, in about 1969, they used true magnetic-core memory, and the current going to the memory would play a tune on a radio nearby. So there were all sorts of programs that would play different tunes. But, while the computer was playing music it was doing little else.

3/8" barb to 5/16" Bundy is the terminology I'm running into. I'm finding a lot of 5/16-5/16 and 3/8-3/8. But not yet 3/8-5/16. The garter style comes in both 5/16" and 3/8" barb, I think. It looks to me like the return pigtail is smaller than the supply pigtail, but I can't measure their ID's, obviously. I could swap the hoses and make up new pigtails when I go to EFI. But it seems so simple to do the swap on the frame now and not even have to pull the hoses - and that's painful, as I said. Yes, color-coded lines or 5/16" return would have kept me from the error of my ways. I think. But that would have meant I'd have to buy two different rolls of line. As it was, the 25' roll was about 6" too long. And, there would have been problems with the connectors. I didn't realize that the fuel filter, which goes in the supply line, has 5/16" male connectors. But by going with all 3/8" line I was able to use connectors for the return side to connect the fuel filter.

Like Scott I've been following along. And like Jim I'd read what Ryan wrote about ~90 amps being the max from a v-belt and hadn't seen the 150 amp guideline. But the key, like Rusty said, is belt wrap. As I think about it, w/o stating how much wrap there is you can't state how much power the belt will transfer. In fact, you would probably have to state what size belt awa the wrap.

Ok, in the almost light of day I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is. I'll go out and confirm it later, but here 'tis. The hoses are fine up until they go onto the back of the transmission. To that point I'd used the convention of supply on the bottom and return on top. But at the stay to the frame they got reversed and I put the 3/8" connector on the return and 5/16" on the supply.. I could swap the rubber hoses at the regulator, but when I go to EFI I'd have the problem again because the 3/8" pigtail is the supply and the 5/16" is the return. So what I need to do is, on the frame rail as you said, cross them over. I already have 5/16" connectors in the supply line for the fuel filter. So if I put connectors in the return I can swap - probably easily. The only issue is that the filter supplies the male component of the connection, so since I'll only have one filter I need to put a 3/8" hose barb/male 5/16" fitting in the return awa a 5/16 female. I have the female connector, but I'm having a hard time finding that male connector.

I think I see the issue. In this pic the top line is the return. And in this pic the return is therefore the one that goes up on top on the right. But, I was thinking that was the supply. So that line is going to the inlet of the regulator, but it is actually the return. I'll prove that tomorrow. But fixing it isn't as easy as removing the hoses from the regulator. If I'm right the supply has a 5/16" connector and the return has a 3/8". So when I go to EFI they'd be wrong again. I'll need to make the change down by the fuel filter and cross over there.

You can see my plans here: Bricknose Sender To Bullnose Gauge Interface. And that Arduino Developer App might help you.

You've combined two things. I used an Edelbrock narrow-band AFR meter and put the display where the PRNDL is on an auto when I put the ZF5 in Dad's truck. Later I put a wide-band on Dad's truck and then Rusty. And I designed and wrote the code for an Arduino to convert a Bricknose sender's output to use on Bullnose gauges. Just haven't built it yet. But now that I have Bricknose senders in Big Blue.....

They are all 3/8" hoses, so there's really nothing wrong with it. The only thing is which line the fuel filter is in and where they connect to the regulator. And if the TSB check valves were on the supply then I have it plumbed correctly, which I hope to prove in the morning.

I'm with you on this! I was really happy when I discovered that those modules were available as I'd left the lights on more than once. Now if I open the door with the lights on it reminds me.

Yes, Gary fellow is following as well. But I've never touched an actual Arduino. Don't have one nor do I have it in the truck - yet. But I've written the software for it and run it on a simulator. It works! As for the D60, yep a few of us have done that. Also, I have the 1995 factory shop manual so if you need info just let me know.

I wouldn't worry about FORDification. He has the same passion for that as I have for this, and he won't neglect it.