Gary Lewis

Ok, we don't have to leave until 11:00 tomorrow so I think I'm going to pull the fuel filter and do that test. And if it is backwards then I have two choices: Swap the hoses, turn the filter around, and filter on the return Cross the lines over at the fuel filter. I think I can do that fairly easily by adding connectors there, and that would mean I won't have to pull the rubber hoses off the regulator. And it would mean I'd filter on the supply side. I think I like scenario #2 better. Thoughts? However, Bill's question about the TSB check valves reminds me - they were on the larger 3/8" connections. Are they on the supply side or the return? And, for the record, here's the section on the 1995 FSM. Looks a lot like what you posted, Bill. Thanks.

Bill - Hadn't seen your response. But I wonder if I have the equivalent of that in my '95 FSM? If so, I want to document that on the site. I'm going out to the shop to look..... Anyway, I don't want to disconnect the rubber hoses from the regulator if I don't have to do so. That is a pain - in several ways. I'm sporting a pretty good scrape from when the hose finally let go today. So I'd prefer to do my test since it is so easy to disconnect the fuel filter. Just wrap the ends with shop towels and blip the pump. One towel will get wet. Won't that work?

Are you saying to pressurize the tank via the cap or the vent and see where it comes out? Would the fuel delivery assembly work that way? I was thinking I'd pull the fuel filter, which is easily done via the disconnects, and wrap the end of the lines in shop towels. Turn the pump on briefly and see which one gets wet. If it is what I thought was coming from the tank then I had the supply sussed correctly. If it is the one coming from the regulator then I have them backward. Won't get to this until Sunday as we are going to a funeral tomorrow. But wouldn't that be a positive answer to the question? And not likely to get gas everywhere?

I can understand your negative comments. I'd be there as well. In fact, I have been - the first body man ripped me off for $6k on Dad's truck. I was SICK! And I probably told a lot a people about it. So I do understand. Hopefully they will make it right. But at least you had some positive steps, getting the carb and crossover set, and the shift indicator on order. Hang in there, it will eventually work out. But it isn't fun while it is happening.

George - Thanks for that. I'll be calling Hagerty.

Oops, I missed the update. I think you are right on this point as well. We have no ties to any vendor, although we have Scotty Johnston, Tim Meyer, and Keith Dickson as members. But we have no ties to those companies. And we have no sponsors. So we are in a good position to critique them.

Scott - I think it is crucial that people be able to change their votes. Had I voted about RockAuto back in the day I'd have emphatically said they are a zero, not even a one. But I've subsequently learned that they do have a very good role to play. And, as you said, it was one individual that told me an un-truth, probably just to make a sale. Had I to do that over again I'd get the person's name and help them understand that if they didn't check the box before shipping then I'd be having a voice conversation with his supervisor as I'd just written down what he said, word for word, the time of day, and his name in full. Saying that he might have backed off. But it is that kind of documentation, as well as pictures, that is necessary when dealing with vendors.

Yes, progress is good. And today I took two steps forward - the fuse and the connector. But, I took a step back on the fuel pressure regulator - and I have a question for y'all in a bit. As said, the pressure was a tad high. Like above 10 psi and headed for the moon. So I pulled out the instructions Holley sent and they were the wrong ones. Found the right ones on the internet, but they didn't really tell which ports to use. So I called tech support and waited on hold for 20 minutes with an irritating song looping every 30 seconds. But, it turns out that I had it plumbed incorrectly. According to the tech "the center outlet is always the return regardless of brand". So I swapped the hoses around, which is FAR harder to do than to type. No joy. As you can see in the pic below, the pressure is at 11 psi and it would be far higher if I'd left the power on longer. And if you'll notice the adjusting screw is out so far it isn't touching anything, and the instructions awa their video say screwing it in raises the pressure. So, it seems to me like I have one of two problems: I have the supply and return lines from the pumps backwards. Big Blue's in-tank pump has the outlet/supply connection as 3/8" and the return as 5/16". And I assumed that this convention would be carried through on the EFI fuel delivery assemblies, although I can't really tell from the ones I have which is supply or return. But I used 3/8" as supply and 5/16" as return. The regulator is bad. I can swap the hoses and see if that fixes the problem. While that is a huge pain as these hoses don't like to come off the barbs, it would be less of a pain than returning the regulator only to find the next one does the same thing. But if that's the case then the fuel filter will be in the return rather than in the supply. I can just turn it around and it'll be fine, but I'll be filtering after the fact. And, I just thought of a fairly simple test - once the pressure has dropped pull the filter and bring the pump on BRIEFLY. That should tell me which way the fuel is flowing. Anyway, HELP!

Looking good, Jim! Yes, I remember the magnifying glass with alligator clips. They work very nicely. The hardware looks great as well, but I really like that sub and the insulation. However, tell me more about the seat mods? What are you doing and why? Last, I think it is a Fluke that you like that meter.

Success!!!!!!!!! It was just a connector that wasn't fully seated! Now when I jumper the oil pressure switch I hear the pump run and see pressure coming up on the gauge. It is a bit high so I need to lower it to ensure the Edelbrock doesn't flood. But, IT WORKS!!!!

That's not nearly as bad as I thought. I think you'll be fine with that timing cover. But, I would certainly put a thin layer of RTV on it. And by the way, stainless bolt are a good insurance policy for the water pump. Use PTE on the threads and you won't have to drill one out, like you may well have to do with a ferrous bolt.

Thanks, David. I need that encouragement. It is a bummer having to disassemble things that are "done" to find the error.

Here's that one at full width. But it is such a poor quality pic it is actually worse than the first one.

To help the other see your pic, I'm making it full width. And to answer your question, I'm not sure I'd use that timing cover. But if I did I certainly use some RTV on the gasket. The main concern is the area on the right of the pic where a whole bunch of the gasket surface is gone. So what I'd do is to run a file over it, laid flat against the whole timing cover, and clean it up. Then you can tell how bad it really is. The bright areas will touch the gasket, but the dark areas won't. How deep are the dark areas? But it looks to me like there's a spot where the gasket area is only maybe 1/8" wide - if that. I'd really be concerned about it as all of your coolant is going past there. So, clean it up and give us another shot. Or, maybe one close-up on the right and another on the left.

Mid-day report. The battery is coming up nicely, having been on the 10 amp setting on the charger now for maybe 20 hours it is now up to about 12.4 volts. So there's hope it isn't hurt too badly. Given that I started testing, and now the sender unit relay works. I get almost 7/8 tank on the rear, which is dry, and the 7/16 on the front which has 5 gallons. But jumpering the oil pressure switch wouldn't bring the pump on, so I checked the pump relay - no juice to the power side of it, although it was being pulled in. Next stop was the inertia switch - nothing in or out. So, off to the schematic on the PDB. Hmmm, Fuse #1 powers the fuel pumps, but there's no fuse in that position. Great! Put a fuse in and nada. Nothing at the inertia switch, which is a direct feed in theory from the PDB. And the fuse is good. So, I guess I tear into the wiring of the PDB.

Not your fault. And I'd not heard about any problems with Yahoo. But now we know. Please test out the ability to subscribe.

I got it and replied.

I've perused the Nabble support forum and see instances of others having problems with Yahoo. Found a statement by my mentor over there that said "Such unreliability is one reason why I have largely abandoned my Yahoo addresses." And in several instances the people set up a Gmail account and everything worked.

John - I'm not seeing anything from you. And I've looked in spam as well as anywhere else it could be. Sorry. Could you post the undeliverable message you go back when you emailed me? I'd like to put that on Nabble support. And, do you have another email address to try? Or, could you create one on Gmail? You can change your email address.

Yes, the turquoise kiddie pool did the trick! I can easily see the drain hole. Man, you have done a LOT of work. Sure is looking good. And, it'll sound good as well.

NPD sells parts made by others for many vehicles, including our Bullnose trucks. If you've had dealings with them please take a moment to rate their service, pricing, products, etc. And a review would be helpful to others.

LOL! I was sending him a note via his official LMC email address when you asked, so included a link to your question. We'll see what he says. But the note I was sending was to let him know about the ratings and reviews effort. Thought he, as "Mr Ford" at LMC, would want to know. I'll probably do the same with each of the vendors as we get more ratings or reviews as they need to know how they are perceived. And, I'll offer to add their response they might have to the reviews.

Dennis Carpenter sells parts made by others for many vehicles, including Bullnose trucks. If you've had dealings with them please rate them on customer service, pricing, quality, etc. And, if you'd like a review would be helpful.

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells parts made by others for many vehicles including Bullnose trucks. If you'd had dealings with JBG please rate their service, pricing, products, etc. And, if you are so inclined, write a review.

This thread is so you can suggest vendors to review as well as for you to suggest changes in the structure or process of reviewing.