Gary Lewis

Sorry, but we've converted over to GMRS and away from CB. Seriously though, is your choke fully off? If not, the fast idle cam will keep the idle off the curb idle screw. But, if the choke is completely off, meaning standing up straight and the fast idle cam is out of the way, that would suggest you have a vacuum leak. However, when you say the vacuum advance hose is off and plugged/capped, you mean so that air can't get to the carb, right? There's no reason to worry about air getting to the vacuum advance on the distributor, but you don't want it going to the carb - although if the "spark port" is timed, meaning there's no vacuum at idle, it doesn't matter.

Cory - I'm very confident that the driven gear will swap over. I say that because the charts on the Driven Gear Part #'s tab on the page at Documentation/Drive Line/Speedometer Gears, Cables, & Sensors don't say boo about "year". And yet the part numbers on the Speed Control Sensors tab do show that 1980 - 85 used the sensor in the cable under the master cylinder, and 1986 and onward use the one that mounts in the transmission or transfer case. However, I've not done it. But I'll try it in the morning and let you know. I have a driven gear that came off the end of a speedo cable and I have the transmission/t-case style VSS, so I'll see if it goes on. Sure looks like it will though as that clip is the same as on the end of the cable.

Shaun - I was surprised with the $18 price when I followed Cory's link, but when I checked with Amazon and it was $10 I was shocked. And quickly pushed the ORDER button. Bill - I understand completely what you are saying. But, I don't think it works quite that way as there is already a reservoir in the system. Having said that, the FSM does say that the diesel-engined trucks do have an extra reservoir: So, I'm willing to try adding a reservoir to see what happens. However, I don't know that I have one with ports that size, and certainly don't think I have a check valve that size. On the other hand, if I'm metering everything through a .105" orifice, why would I need .313"? Given that, I'm thinking I'll add a reservoir with the check valve used on the HVAC system and see what happens. Thoughts?

Not a bad truck, but it is NOT a "one of a kind".

Ok, the MPC says that an '86 4WD takes E6TZ 9A820-C, which is 92" long. Went on Amazon and found this ATP Y-869 Speedometer Cable which it says is for an '86 4WD for $10.65 and it'll be here Wednesday. Oh yes, it is 92" long and shows to have the right ends. Then I found that the pigtail, BND PT331, is available at the Owasso Advance Auto Parts and since we are going tomorrow I've ordered it up and will pick it up then. I sure hope that smooths things out as I'm running out of things to "fix".

The two brands I have are ATP and Pioneer. I know they come in longer versions, so you should be good to go with the next size up. Ok guys, I've just gotten back from a test run with the red, white, and blue jets. Here are my notes: Red/.125: Initially I thought it was better than the .105 but after some more testing I don't think so. Has too much off/on/off. White/.154": Constantly twitching. On/off/on/off. On one slight downhill I watched it go from 10" of vacuum to 20" to 10" to 20" to 10" and it just kept doing that until the grade changed. Very unacceptable. Blue:.189": Not much difference than the white. Apparently by .154" there's really no restriction so the .189" didn't make any difference. So I think I accidentally found the sweet spot at .105". But that's still not as smooth as I want, so I've gotten the green light to order the one-piece 1986 and later speedometer cable and a pigtail for the VSS. I'll make up a cable that will plug into the VSS on one end and the connector where the current speed control sender is connected below the master cylinder on the other. It'll be a plug and play arrangement.

Bill - It sure will! Tell me what I owe you via email. Thanks!

No prob. I can find the right cable. Gotta be about the same price.

Thanks, Cory! Amazon has the cable for $18 delivered, and the pig tail is $13 + shipping. I have plenty of spare speed sensors that go in the cable so can cabbage the connector off of one, and with that pig tail make up my own cable to plug into the existing harness. And, since I think it makes sense to put the sensor ahead of the whip-like speedo cable this seems like the right approach. (Ford must have thought so as well.) Plus, I get a whole new speedo cable out of it. SOLD!

You missed my reply/confession. 😩🤣

Cory - I may need the cable info, but hang on a bit. I found a handy page on a swell web site that seems to have some info on this: Documentation/Driveline/Speedometer Gears, Cables, & Sensors. And it says "Trucks with speed control, aka cruise control, had a sensor to determine vehicle speed. From 1980 through 1985 those were in the speedometer cable under the brake master cylinder, as shown on the left, below. But in 1986 they moved to the end of the speedometer cable and were inserted into the transmission for 2wd vehicles or into the transfer case for 4wd vehicles, as shown on the right, below." And then it has this illustration: So, assuming the author is correct, and you know what they say - if it is on the internet it must be right - then I think I just need an '86 and later cable. Right? But, if you have the part numbers for that awa the connector then it would be appreciated. However, I'm in hope that the web site will have that info.

And now for the VSS. The ends of the speedo cables are different. The pic below shows the Bullnose cable on the bottom and the one that was in the VSS on the top - which is only ~6" long. The Bullnose inner cable will go in, but the outer part won't because it is .431" OD and the later cable is .393" and the VSS opening is .396". And below are two pics of the VSS itself. On the right you can see down into where the speedo cable goes, and I'm thinking about boring that out to take the .431" end of the Bullnose cable. The OD of the VSS is ~.900" so there's plenty of meat to allow that. Another approach would be to buy a new later model cable to fit. But I'm not finding it in the MPC. Does anyone know when they started using the VSS? And a part number for it or the cable that fits it? Also, I'm not finding the connector that fits it. I would have thought it would be with the EEC stuff I took off Huck, but it hasn't shown up. Thoughts on any of this?

Missed that. Was mainly surprised by the E1 and missed the E2. Thanks.

David - That's interesting. All are E1's and all are the grommet style that sits in the opening rather than the boot behind the opening. And it isn't likely that all of them are in the wrong package. So, that suggests that the changeover was in '81. Dad's truck had the boots rather than the grommets. Hmmmm.... .

Thats good. I got a couple spare NOS Motorcraft DSII modules as they were $12 a pop and I bought all they had on hand. Thats was my line of thought as well, by time the exhaust gets to the muffler/tail pipe it has cooled enough that you need to shrink the size of the exhaust down to maintain velocity otherwise the exhaust actually will slow down in the pipes as the exhaust continues to cool. I read that some where years ago and it made sense as to why Ford would go from 2 1/2" single to 2 1/4" for the tail pipe. Was my line of thought for my exhaust as well but then again I didnt take into account running higher flowing AFR heads, higher lift roller cam, a 800cfm Sniper Stealth but then I also am choking the exhaust side down slightly by running shorty street headers that has the OE ball flange collector. I seriously am leaning towards the 3" Y pipe but at the same time I am thinking about running the OE setup and see what it makes at dyno when I take it to have the sniper stealth tuned. Down side to doing this would be extra expense, at least right now if I decide to go 3" single I could buy the 3" variant muffler and then return my 2 1/4" variant and get my money back on it. But I wont be turning 7,000 rpm like you were turning, at best 5,500 would be my max as my engine with the valve springs should redline at 6,000. Roller lifters should be good to 6,500 rpm and scorpion roller rockers I think I read they are good to some 7,500 rpm. Limiting factor for me will be my C6 transmission, the transmission shop I am going to have build me one said he wont be able to get the governor exactly to shift at wide throttle at 5,500 rpm but he can get it close. So I might be a little under 5,500 or a little over 5,500 rpm. Then I dont even know if my intake manifold and headers will allow me to really benefit from turning 5,500 rpm like I am hoping. The other thing I was thinking is with how large the muffler is case wise on length x width it really shouldnt be much restriction in my eyes but now the pipe before the muffler and the Y pipe itself that is where I am really questioning. I been meaning to talk with the guy that is going to do the tuning on my sniper and see what he thinks exhaust wise but for me the price wont be a whole lot different. Bassani Y pipe : $322.14 Magnaflow muffler 3" inlet/outlet : $111.00 vs Magnaflow Y pipe : $386.00 Magnaflow muffler 2 1/4" inlet/outlet : $90.00 Tailpipe 2 1/4" : $30.00 So either way I go it will cost me about the same. Did some analysis on the orifices I used and, assuming that the .220" outlet of the valve section and inlet to the servo itself are the restrictions in the factory setup, I went much, much smaller. As you can see, the .105 was roughly 1/4th the size and the .068 was 1/10th the size! Since the .105 was the best of the ones I tested I made three new ones at roughly 3/4's, 1/2, and 1/3 and will go out in a bit to test them. And, I was going to swap in the VSS device to provide the signal to the speed control, but ran into two problems, which I'll detail a bit later. But, the first is that it takes a connector I'm not sure I have, and the second is that it isn't designed to take a Bullnose speedo cable. More later....

Thanks! Yeah, they butchered the wiring pretty good. The sending unit wires run up into the cab to a separate switch at the moment. This is some of the worst of it, but there are butt connectors everywhere, sometimes splicing 2 inches of wire. I was considering one of the Pollak knock offs, specifically I was looking at the U7001. My main concern is that they appear to have the hose barbs for rubber fuel line and I appear to have Nylon, at least some of it it. I've been looking at: One of these since it has the quick connect style connectors. I was planning on replacing all the nylon lines just to be certain it's all good. I have also considered jut replumbing it all with high pressure injection hose, but I haven't done the cost analysis to see what is cheaper. Thank you for this information on the pump! My plan was to use the currently leaking pump to purge the steering box with the method you describe and then replacing the pump. I might just purge the pump and box and clean the area, there's always a change the PO didn't know not to turn the wheels when the truck was off. Welcome! Glad you joined. I think we've had some communications about that truck on FB. Hopefully their aren't two trucks butchered like that. Looks like you and Jim have things going already. Another you need to hear from is Shaun/salans7. He can help you understand what is involved in converting a 2wd F250 to 4wd which, as Jim said, isn't the easiest of tasks. Was it you that I was talking with about the fuel line connectors? Last, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you - with your permission. Hi Gary, You are correct, we have done some communicating on the FB group, so, thankfully to our knowledge this is the only truck butchered like this. Thanks for the information on who to reach out to. I think the truck came with most of the parts, but there was a lot of bracketry that had been cut off of another truck. We were discussing the fuel line connectors, yes. I am torn between replacing all the nylon lines and using the FSV I linked above, or replacing the lines with rubber and using the Pollak valve. I have also considered replumbing the 2 3 way valves and wiring in a waterproof relay like what you have for the sending unit selection. Lots to mull over. I have a Lisle 39000 Power steering pulley remover/installer on the way as well as the Dorman nylon install tool, but they're a week or so out according to Amazon. Feel free to add me to the map, Marysville WA. I bought the Dart probably 12 years ago or so, I can't really remember lol. it's a 4 door, slant 6 automatic so nothing too special. 225 slant six. I've been working on it off and on over the time I've had it. Unfortunately it's back at my mother's place in Canada so I can't take any recent pictures. Eventually I will have this truck running well enough to make the trip to Sooke BC to visit and finally haul it out of my mothers driveway, lol. Thanks for the welcome! Thanks for the offer! I'm going to work on splicing the harness for the time being. It's nice to solder big stuff for once, I don't have to use a microscope for this. I might actually hit up a local scrap yard and see if they have any of the bullnose that I could snag the harness from for patching purposes. The trailer wiring I had was all aftermarket I believe. I have an older Tekonsha brake controller attached to the driver side kick panel and some circuit breakers bolted to the driver side fender. You are now on the map. As for the valve, connectors, etc, I don't know what the best way is, but the connectors aren't cheap. But if you have the tool they make for a nice, factory, installation. On the Dart, we had a '61 Valiant, very much like your Dart. It was a daily driver and with the slant six it ran nicely. Would love to have it back!

On my [Ford] Autolite 4100, the choke plate snaps completely closed with a bit of tension when it is very cold. As soon as the engine fires, the choke plate immediately cracks open just a tiny bit to let a bit of air in. As the engine builds up heat, that choke plate gradually opens until it has tension holding it completely open. Rick - On carbs with a vacuum pulloff I set the choke to close fully and the pulloff to open it slightly, just like you said. But the Edelbrocks that I've mainly used don't have the pulloff so I set the choke to not quite close. Personally I like the idea of a pulloff as it is a feedback loop. Set the choke a bit rich for starting and then if the pulloff brings it too far off the vacuum drops and the pulloff lets the choke close a bit.

Ok, if you've read that thread then we'll pick up where it leaves off. In the pic below you can see the two brushes circled in blue and yellow. In this pic you can see which of the standard steering wheel connections go to those brushes. And for a horn pad that has no speed control buttons you'll have a connector that goes over those two tabs. Then, when you push the horn button it connects the two circuits, which puts battery voltage to the horn. That's NOT the way the horn circuit works if you have the speed control wiring. So if your truck happens to have the speed control wiring, including the module under the dash between the steering column and ash tray, then it works differently. And I don't think a standard, non-speed control horn pad will honk the horn with that arrangement, although I've not tried it.

Jim - There may be one under "upgrades", but the one I refer people to is on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Simplification and One Wire tabs. There are some advantages and disadvantages there also. Andre - I saw what you said about the notch in the air cleaner. But I'm not sure that an HEI will fit under there.

Thanks for sharing, George. It is good to remind people about those differences.

I agree with Jim - use factory parts. I've put hydraulic clutch assemblies where mechanical ones where, put '95 masters and boosters in an '85, and was able in all cases to bolt it in.

Oh, forgot about the Dart! Tell us more, please. I have its big brother, a '69 Bee.

Welcome! Glad you joined. I think we've had some communications about that truck on FB. Hopefully their aren't two trucks butchered like that. Looks like you and Jim have things going already. Another you need to hear from is Shaun/salans7. He can help you understand what is involved in converting a 2wd F250 to 4wd which, as Jim said, isn't the easiest of tasks. Was it you that I was talking with about the fuel line connectors? Last, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you - with your permission.

Looks like good progress, Jaci. However, I think you may have made a mistake in boring out the splines. That is what made the arm rotate with the shaft, but now the arm is likely to slip instead of rotate when you depress the pedal. As for the spring, it is there to ensure the pedal comes all the way back up.

Electronics no. Wiring yes. Trucks w/o gauges, meaning those with idiot lights, didn't have the wiring for a tach. But in '86 Ford dropped the idiot lights, so you should have gauges and the wiring should be there. You just need the tach and, maybe, the flex circuit on the back of the gauges.