Gary Lewis

Yep, looks like a perfect fit to me. You'll have to finish out this thread when you install it. And, maybe write it up in Upgrades?

I guess it depends on the situation. Since I removed the factory valve on the frame of my truck, I actually need the residual pressure valve on the later master, so for me it is more than an adapter. The purpose of the residual pressure valve is to keep about 10psi pressure on the rear brakes. Otherwise, the drum brake springs would overcome the brake fluid and push it back to the master...which in turn would cause me to require more brake pedal travel to activate the rear brakes. The factory proportioning valve on your frame serves this purpose. It serves a couple purposes, but one is that it has a prop valve for the rear drum brakes. If you are leaving it intact, then I guess you don't need the residual valve on the master cylinder, except to use it as an adapter. It looks like Gary has both installed, unless he also gutted the residual pressure valve? I don't know if that answers your question or not. You don't need both, but you definitely should have at least one or the other installed. PS: I have read where guys have swapped the later masters in (and nothing else) and reported no issues, so having both installed maybe isn't a problem? I don't know. I have both, the one on the frame and the one on the master. And I have no braking problems. The brakes work very well.

Well, I'll be a ..... How did I miss that? I was thinking that valve was in the front. Boy, I'm embarrassed!!! Cory, thanks for correcting me. Good catch.

Merry Christmas! But check the paint as I probably have that as well. Will add it to the package if needed. Since yours is working should I wait until after Christmas? Or do you want me to get it out today?

Gary, Do you have the residual pressure valve installed? I didn't think it was possible to go without it? No, Cory, I don't have the residual pressure valve. That is Huck's 1990 lines, which screwed into the '95 master cylinder on the top end and the Bullnose proportioning valve on the bottom end. No need for a residual pressure valve to adapt the fitting sizes.

The proportioning valve grounds a wire to light the BRAKES light on the dash when the balance between the front and rear is upset, like if you blow a hose on one side or the other. So if you go with a later master and retain the proportioning valve you won't need to change any wiring. And if you make your own lines you won't need the residual pressure valve that adapts the existing front line to fit the master. But, it won't hurt to have that valve and then you wouldn't have to make lines, find the right fittings, etc. Or, you could do like I did and use 1990ish lines. Those trucks still had the proportioning valve but went to the later master, so screw right in to the proportioning valve you have an a later master. But some of the later master cylinders have a port in them for a switch. You don't need that port nor switch, but if you get a master with one then I'll send you one of these brass plugs. I bought 10 and there are now 9 in there after I used one on BB's master cylinder. Would love to farm them out.

Ok, looks like I have the exact same flex circuit as Shaun. Says E9TF-10C956-B. So, Jim, it is yours. Do you want the whole gauge set? I do not need it so would be happier to send you the whole thing than just the flex circuit. And shipping is on me.

Well done! That should last for years. And now you have defrost!

Cool! A Sniper on a 300 six! I don't think I've seen one of those done, so am anxious to see what you think of it. On the radiator support, apparently LMC's support is the 1980 - 84 version. You can see on our page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/Radiator Support that you have to make mods to an earlier support to fit an '85 or '6 truck. So, when will you get to drive it - and report back?

Ty - That explains it! I'd thought of a bed cover for Big Blue a few times and then realized that with the tool box in the bed that might not work. But it looks like the plywood did. I love that area of the country! We've been to the Grand Canyon four times, once to the North Rim and three times to the South Rim. And the last time we rode the mules down and stayed at Phantom Ranch over night. As for the lake, we've been to Hoover Dam but haven't been out on Mead. But we've been out on Lake Powell, the one above The Canyon, several times, and pulled our 25' Sea Ray out there the time we rode the mules.

The "pot" in question is the one on the servo, not the one on the board. All three legs of the servo's pot feed back to the board and the instructions suggest that if any one of those doesn't come through you'll have surging. As I think about it, I don't know if the pot on the servo that's on there is any good. I did change the servo out but that servo's Vacuum valve didn't work so the speed control didn't function at all. And when I put the original servo back on I didn't test its pot. Reading the test procedure in the section of the FSM we have on the Speed Control page I did discover that the pot is said to be necessary to prevent surging. So I could have pulled that servo and tested its pot. And I could have used my DVM to test the three circuits back to the module. But by the time I realized that Scott already had the tester on its way to me so I moved on to the fog light bracket. The test procedure tells me to: Place the tester in Harness Testing mode Plug the tester's cable into the two connectors that go to the module Turn the key to Run Remove the connector from the servo Touch the probe attached to the tester to each of the six terminals in the connector for two seconds, at which point there is to be a readout showing that terminal is connected to the harness correctly I don't know if the connector really has to be connected to the servo when the tester "wakes up", but that's the order the instructions give, so that's the order I'll use. Hmmm, I need to copy some of this discussion over to the other thread.

Welcome, Wesley! Glad you joined. I like the truck. A bit of "wear" in the paint makes it look loved. Well used. And the 302/AOD combo should make it fairly economical. So, where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you there if we had a city or a zip. I hope you'll start a thread in the main section or in Projects, your call, about your truck so we can follow along as bring it up to snuff.

Thanks, Jim. Reading the instructions on the tester it looks to me like the problem is likely to be in the potentiometer circuits that feed the servo's position back to the electronic module. Basically that's the only thing that's not been checked from what they say to test. So, I'll start with the "servo test", which does test those circuits. Then, if that doesn't find something, I'll go back to the automatic test, which checks everything.

Shaun & Jim - Hang on until tomorrow. Apparently I was mistaken, so let me see what I have. If I have the one from Huck it is yours, Jim, assuming it'll work. I have no need for it and that will save Shaun's.

Thanks, Dane! Yes, a new toyol.

Man, that's quite the list! But Blackie looks wonderful already. And all of those parts will make a nice storage unit. You are going to love it. As for my list, I hope to fix the speed control now that I have Scott's tester. And get the EFI air box and PDB positioned, and maybe even get the PDB bolted in.

Looks good, Cory! I think it is going to work nicely.

I didn’t think the 90 or later circuit would work. But if so, I may have one from Huck. I’ll check tomorrow. Sorry if I misunderstood.

Guess what came in today! I know what I'm going to do tomorrow. As for what I did today, I got the fog lights mounted and the wiring done save for up to a non-existent relay. Here's the front view: And here's the side view:

Others will have input, but we are in a very SLOW time on the forum right now with Christmas around the corner. Lots of guys with the 300 six, but many of them are busy with family at the moment.

Yes, it is a SMALL world! We go to the Church of Christ in Skiatook with them. I'll ask, but I think a brother still lives there and may be an elder in that church - like I am here. Love the pics. Where were they taken? Almost looks like the Grand Canyon but maybe more like Lake Powell? And, tell me 'bout the bed cover/tool box combo. I've never seen a bed cover that accommodates a tool box like that. I like it!

That's a pretty ugly bend! Sure to restrict the flow the way it is pinched and rippled. But I haven't been around the 300 nor its exhaust so can't say what other brands look like. And, I'll caution that while I buy a lot of things from Rock Auto, their claims and returns rules aren't all that friendly. Just a heads-up.

Didn't happen to know the Fitzgerald family in Haskell? We go to church with a couple who are originally from Haskell. Know that 'cause we went to a funeral for a family member there in the Church of Christ, just north of town and west of the tracks if I remember correctly. And, we were down in Haskell County a few days ago. Drove Big Blue down to Robber's Cave.

You are now on the map. And, thank you for your service! Jim is right, I'm in Skiatook. Where are you originally from?

Happy Holidays!!!! Glad you joined. What part of Georgia? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you with a city or zip. Post up some pics of your truck. (Info on that is in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.)