Gary Lewis

Jein, Andre. On our page for exterior mirrors (Documentation/Exterior/Exterior Mirrors) you can see that Cory's mirrors are probably Type 5's, and the "paddle" mirrors are Type 14. If you then look at the Part Numbers tab you can see that the Type 5's were used on the F-Series pickups, U-Series full-sized Broncos, and the R-Series little Ranger pickup. But not the B-Series Bronco II. But the Type 14's were used on the F-Series, B-Series, and R-Series, and not U-Series. However, since the doors interchange between the F & U series and between the B & R series the mirrors could be used on any of them. But they may not be advertised as fitting.

I agree that it is hard to reach back in there. For sure. I soldered my connections and used heat shrink with adhesive. EDIT: On the issue of the senders, the lack of availability and high cost now, plus the probability of the availability & cost getting worse as supplies dry up, was a big reason I went with the FDM's. It was a paint converting everything, including the tanks, over to the more modern system, but I think it'll be worth it. So I fully understand why you did it.

It is nice, for sure. Shame it isn't a CA truck as it would be one of the unicorn EEC-V trucks.

Thanks for the details, Bill. Looks like I'll need to find another connector for the few high-current circuits. The fog lights, backup lights, and trailer lights would be some of those. Hmmm, I'd better check the fuel pressure relay to see what circuit # it is and what pins it used..... Jim - Thanks. Yes, Silver Lining is the powder I'm using on a lot of things, inc the valve covers, intake plenums, dipstick stay, coil mount, and the alternator & power steering/AC compressor brackets. And the stash of aluminum channel has come in so very handy, with parts being made for the dipstick stay, coil mount, battery hold downs, and now the fog light bracket. As I've told Janey any number of times, I really enjoy working in my shop. Being able to make things that are needed, like for the truck, is so rewarding. And figuring out how to use the tools is a big part of that. Yesterday I was wondering how I was going to make the indention in the bracket, but then I remembered that I could angle the mill vise, so I measured the angle, set the vise, and milled the angles. Then I set the vise back to 0 and milled the straight part to connect the angles. And the part fell out.

Yes, Merry Christmas!!! I hope to post up pics of the bracket and the lights installed tomorrow. Won't have the wiring done for quite some time, but at least I can see how the bracket and lights look on the truck.

Bummer, Jim! But at least you know how far you can go. Hope you get it fixed easily.

/\ /\ Yes, what they said! Just use the hydraulic pedal & shaft from the later box in the Bullnose box. No need to use the whole box from the later truck as that is a LOT of work.

Yes, I do go back to the 40's - both in age awa documentation. But, I'm not sure about the motivation and energy. At least the latter seems to be waning. Still, I'm having FUN!

Not feeling all that young. But thanks.

I've always guessed him to be a '48 or '49 Gary myself. Actually, I'm a '47 Gary fellow.

I recommend you stay away from betting.

Yes, I had a similar experience when I removed the slave cylinder. And, as Jim said, I bled it but I had very little pedal. But enough that I could drive it and that worked the bubbles out. However, Bill/85lebaront2 had another recommendation - reverse bleed the system. Take a piece of hose from the left front brake caliper's bleed screw to the slave cylinder's bleed screw. Open the brake's bleed screw and then the clutch bleed screw and stand on the brake to force brake fluid into the clutch system. But don't let the brake system go dry.

Yeah, the bracket came out nice, and Bruce's idea made it look like other than just a piece of angle. So I really appreciate his suggestion. On the connector, you are right that I may need to take the high-currently wires out of the connector. But there are very few of those. One will be the fog lights as they can pull about 4 amps each.

As for what I did today, I got the fog light bracket done. Installation will have to wait until tomorrow though.

What kind of amperage can that connector handle? Been rolling around in my head about using a single large OE style connector for my auxiliary fuse box. But would need to handle quite a bit of amps for how many circuits I have. That's a good question. Molex says their .062" pins are rated at 5A and their .093" pins are rated at 17A. But, that's not to say these Ford connectors and pins are rated the same way. Bill? Scott? Someone? Do you know the ratings for these pins?

You may be right, Scott. I was worried about that, so maybe the isolator could go down there. I want the fuse up where I can replace it if needed, but the isolator doesn't need to be. Thanks.

Clay - That's a bummer! On the steering gear, there are two levels. In my opinion you can get a bit less than new, and better than new. Here's my thinking. The factory used the cast iron box for the bottom bearing, and all boxes are now worn. The rebuilders check how worn and use boxes that are in tolerance, meaning the bearing clearance is more than new but still acceptable. And what you get is in the luck of the draw. But two outfits, Red Head and Bluetop, bore the box out and put in a real bearing. So they are better than new. But they are more expensive. I've used a Cardone unit and it was far better than the one it replaced. However, since then I've bought Red Head.

Scott - I was misremembering where the relays are. You are right about the other relays being "down there". Bill - I have two pair of those connectors, one pair still attached to the bracket for the PDB. So that's obviously the right thing to use. Wonder why I didn't do that on the passenger's side. But thanks for the suggestion! On the relays, my notes say that the positions in the CA-Spec PDB are used this way: Relay 1: PCM Power Relay 2: Fuel Pump Relay Relay 3: Horn relay on the '96 but I'll be using the one in the '85 harness so this can be the trailer relay Relay 4: Unused, so this can be the fog lights Relay 5: Unused, so this can be the backup lights But in the pic above you'll see an extra relay I wired in. I believe that's a key-on relay to provide aux battery voltage to the aftermarket voltmeter, and it can go away as that voltmeter can be wired to the aux power relay's output. However, it won't read if the Aux Power switch in Mission Control is turned off, which will be a rare situation. So, I think the wiring to the EFI PDB might be fairly easy for those relays and I can move the fuel pump and trailer relays from the firewall into the PDB. Then I can relocate the aux power relay and add both the battery isolator and the megafuse there. I think that is going to work! Thanks, Scott!

In case he doesn't see this quickly, he says Stanstead. And if you are from Enfield you might know where we lived - Moor Park. Few do.

Matt - Having seen the pics of the lorries backed up in Kent due to France having stopped all Chunnel traffic from England, and with Brexit negotiations not going well, you may be a long time getting anything from this side of the pond. So I think it wise to take your time. Do the research. And then pull the trigger on whatever the plan is at that time.

Yeah, I've slept since a lot of conversations. Was just reading one Bill and I had two years ago. Anyway, I'm not sure I'd have said the relays are "down low" as I think they are at about the same height as the aux power relay. But yes, probably in that area is where I'd mount the battery isolator. (And straighten up the aux power relay, which is in the factory position at a weird angle.) As for the megafuse, those do look interesting due to the smaller size. But I already have fuse holders, so will try to squeeze one in there between the isolator and aux power relay. And now to connectors. I probably should have put connectors on the PDB on the passenger's fender, but this round I don't intend to implement everything in the PDB on the first round so had better use connectors. Do you have recommendations? There will be a mix of power circuits, like the fog lights, and signal circuits, like the pull-in circuit to the fog light relay.

The old aux battery relay is the new aux power relay. When it comes in lots of power is fed to the inverter and the charging station behind the seat via #2 cable. So I need both the smart isolator and the aux power relay. And if I put the smart isolator on the firewall I'll need to move the trailer relay and fuel pump relay into the EFI PDB to have enough room on the firewall. But, IIRC, there are already relays in the box for those functions. However, that's not something I was ready to do now. IOW, I was hoping to find a home for the smart isolator that didn't require me to implement the EFI PDB now. But, as I think about it, I actually do need to do that now 'cause I plan to put a relay in there for the fog lights and another for the backup lights and I want them on before the trip this summer. Ok, maybe that's the plan - lay out where the air cleaner box and EFI PDB go. Then implement the EFI PDB to at least be the termination point for the big yellow wire coming across the radiator support from the other PDB and the starting battery. Move the fuel pump and trailer relays into the EFI PDB, freeing up space on the firewall, and put the smart isolator there. That will require a short jumper from the EFI PDB to extend the starting battery's circuit to there, but the aux battery circuit already needs to be there to go to the aux power relay. Put a megafuse on the firewall between the smart isolator and the aux power relay, and it would work. Thoughts?

Ok Bill, thanks. Now on to a different subject - the placement of various things on Big Blue's driver's fender. And for this I'm pulling some info from this post in the EFI For Big Blue thread. You might ask why I'm worried about this now since I don't plan to go to EFI until late next year. The reason is that I need to make new #2 cables to connect the aux power relay (the old aux battery relay) with the battery isolator and the aux battery. And given the price of that cable and connectors I don't want to have to do that twice. So I need to figure out where the battery isolator is going to go as it is the key that, literally, ties everything together. First, here's Huck's 1990 driver's fender with the bracket for the EFI air box bolted on: And here's the fender w/o the bracket showing the bolt holes that it uses: Then here's Big Blue's driver's fender. I'm pretty sure the hole circled in the upper right is where the bracket will go, and I think that will work as the leg of the bracket will go behind the battery. And, there's a circle below that roughly where the bottom screw goes. Further, I've put a circle about where the rear screw will need to go. But, I've drawn straight lines on a bit of a problem as that piece protrudes into the engine compartment and will hit the bracket. So some changes will have to be made. However, that picture of BB's fender does not include the battery isolator that currently sits between the coolant recovery/windshield washer reservoir and the fender, right where the black ground cable is shown in the picture. So both the coolant recovery/windshield washer reservoir and the battery isolator will have to be relocated. And. the EFI PDB goes on the fender behind the air box but ahead of the speed control servo, so there's no room on that side for the reservoir so it'll probably have to go to the passenger's side. But I do need to find a place for the battery isolator on that side of the engine bay as the cable running across the radiator has to bring the power from the primary battery to the EFI PDB. So, if anyone has suggestions please offer them!

Oh! Ok, thanks. And, he can spot a rusty master cylinder from a mile away as well.

Bill - I'm sure I'm overthinking it. But, to paraphrase another Okie, all I know is what I read in this forum and in Ford's documentation. You said ""First, the PSOM board on the speedometer, it does three things, converts the pulse signal to a format the speed control and EEC can use...". That says to me that the EEC can't use the signal from the speedometer cable sensor. That's what got my attention. But now you are saying "Since the vacuum cruise control works with either a speedometer cable/dummy sensor (I ran Darth that way until I got the later dash installed with it's wiring) or the PSOM, that would indicate to me that the PSOM outputs a signal equivalent to the unit on the transmission or transfer case." That says to me that the EEC's, both IV and V, can use the pulses from the speedometer cable sensor awa the PSOM. I hope I'm reading that correctly!