Gary Lewis

Yes, it does make sense about the spring force. Anyway, I'll try 20" blades. Thanks.

Yipes! I've never seen a starter gear that bad! So, does the Meter Match work?

Jacob - I'll bet you thought I'd forgotten. Here's what the 1984 Dealer Facts Book says the different trim levels came with as standard equipment. And note that in '84 there wasn't a Custom trim level. Just Standard, XL, and XLT. (And an Explorer that was offered for only a couple of months each year and doesn't show in the book.) And that the Standard didn't have any trim designation. Oh yes, I should say that while this chart says "4x2" that there's no similar chart for the 4x4 trucks as they had the same standard items save for the 4x4 bits.

Ok Jim, I understand. Thanks. Bill - If I understand what you are saying I'll need to do some minor rewiring. But I want to get my head around that first so will lay the '85 and '95 EVTM's side by side and see what needs to be changed. Will do that in a mo. However, my tale for the day: Decided to get the windshield wipers scoped out and the windshield washer working. On the former, see a new thread I've created on the subject of Windshield Wipers - Pin Vs Hook Style. But let's talk about my findings on the washer. The nozzle, which appears to have come on the pin-cushion cowl, had very small orifaces and a #60 .040" bit wouldn't come close to going in. So I used a .025" strand of a copper wire and cleaned them out. Then they'd work, albeit briefly. Clean again and they might work, but only for a bit. So I decided to pull the nozzle off and inspect it but I couldn't even get the hose to come off much less reach up in there to release the nozzle. So I pulled the hose off the reservoir and ran the contents into a pan. Then I realized the contents were Rain-X washer fluid, and in the back of my mind I remembered stories of others having clogging problems. So I ran several rounds of hot water through with the hope that something would dissolve and all would be well. No such luck. Given that, I put 120 psi to the hose. Not only did the hose come off, but the nozzle launched and I can't find it. So now Big Blue is sporting a Bullnose nozzle, and a #60 bit will almost go in, but not quite. Anyway, I now get two large streams of water in the middle of the windshield.

As some of you know I've ordered a pair of the hook-style windshield wiper arms to put on Big Blue. And if you don't know the difference, I've included a picture of ends of the arms below. But suffice to say that the Bullnose trucks use the older pin style arms and some time later Ford, and much of the rest of the industry, went to the hook style. I don't know that one is better than the other but I'm told the selection of wiper blades is better for the hook-style arms, so that's the way I'm going. But now I need to find out what size of blades to go with, which is mainly the subject of this thread. The old blades on Big Blue measure 18" long, but the passenger's side is symmetrical while the driver's side has 10" above the pin and 8" below the pin. I've measured and it looks to me like with the new arms, which may be 1/4" shorter, I could go with 20" symmetrical wipers. So, for those who've done this change, what wiper size did you go with? And do you have any tips?

Yep, that's exactly where I cut in to put my Meter Match. Man, that carb looks UGLY! I'll bet the accelerator pump's check ball wasn't sealing. But the bore is still good?

Then I'm interested. But it might be a reason to stay with the vacuum system if that tester doesn't work with the new electronic ones. Plus, I might figure out how to make the vacuum systems do what I want easier than doing the same with the electronic one since I have access to the signals between the servo and the brains on the vacuum system. And, there's that tantalizing potentiometer that may take the sensitivity out.

Yes, I know that sound all too well. The distinctive sound of the gear-reduction starter singing away, and then the boom - which was particularly loud on my Bee as it had the "unsilenced" air cleaner. But the @#$%^&* Holley 4bbl carbs would do it as well, and you could kiss the power valve goodbye.

Jim - So I could use my master and the harness below as well as a new deactivation switch and go with the electronic speed control that Bill has? Bill - Are you saying that speed control plugs into my existing harness and uses the existing speed control switches? Does it plug into the steering column's harness the way the existing module does? Maybe I should upgrade?

Bill - Let's make a DEAL! (I was reminded of Don Rickles/Crapgame in Kelly's Heroes when I typed that.) I sure wouldn't mind having a tester of my own as well as the other modules. But does that Rotunda tester look like Scott's? Does it do these units or the later ones? Here's Scott's:

Any more info on the first batch of harnesses? My 2002 Ranger was part of the recall and has the recall harness, but I don't know when the work was done or which harness it has. We had some of that discussion back here. But you may be wanting more. Go for it!

Bill - Yes, it is on the bottom. Good to know there's a later one w/speed control.

Matthew - I didn't find any Ford numbers on the circuit board, although I'll look again this afternoon. However that chip has an ID number on it of D9AF-14A607-A1B and a Motorola # of QQ8429B. I haven't found any hits on either, although some sites say they have, but I didn't look in the cross reference to see if I can find the ID# and cross it to a part #. I just did - no dice. Jim - I'm glad you are enjoying it. I am as well. I've often wondered how the speed control works, and now I'm finding out.

Greg - You can't add yourself to the map, but I've added you. But please check to see that I did it correctly as there are several Lethbridges in the world.

Well done, for sure! TinkerCAD? I've not tried it. My TurboCAD works, but the jump from 2D to 3D is painful, so I might give TinkerCAD a try if I need to do 3D again.

Hello, Chris! Long time no see. I see you post on FB from time to time, and Bill/Numberdummy refers to you every once in a while, so I assumed you are still kicking. So, what you been up to? Working? Driving the SHO? Fill us in!

Welcome! I guess when we asked you to post in New Members Start Here we didn't envision a blank post. But, you did post. Where's home? We could put on on the map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) if you gave us a city or a zip.

Decent price. But there's still a lot of work to do.

I really wish we could help them as it would help us.

Yeah, no! Not using that port on the master. May go electronic on the cruise later, but want to get it sorted with as little extra work as possible now, so still want to use the vacuum system. But if there's a bad connection twixt the servo's potentiometer and the electronics module, as the FSM section suggests, I may be able to fix this fairly easily. However, I'm going to wait on Scott's tester to come in and use my time doing something else. Like maybe the fog light mount? However, before I connect up the fog lights I'll need to figure out where the driver's side PDB goes and probably install it as I want to use a relay in it for the fog lights. And, by the way, get this! Was driving along yesterday thinking about the speed control and all of the pulses going on and I thought "I wish I could bring my scope on the road. But wait, it requires AC. OH YES! I'll have AC!"

Thanks! I'm going to crack this yet with the help of my friends! So, you think the pot is sensitivity? That would be sweet. I really don't like an aggressive speed control as they kill the MPG, especially on an engine with lots of power, so do want to desensitize this thing.

Well done! Working on the T2K and the 460 at the same time?

I'll get it out on Monday. Last three digits still 236? And, should have said that's interesting info about the dual patterns. Didn't know that.

Cory - I see what you are saying. But I'm not getting across to the vendor. Here's their latest response: I think I'm done. They don't appear to either understand or care. And I don't see a way on eBay to flag that it is improperly advertised. What I'd like to do is to tell them I'm going to flag it because it is false advertising. Maybe I could get their attention. But I can't figure out how to flag it. Does anyone know? Other suggestions?