Gary Lewis

Dennis - Thanks for the introduction, and I'm glad you joined! Is it ok to add to the map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu)? Having said that, you didn't post in the New Member's Start Here folder, which is where the guidelines are, so I'll just copy them in here to ensure you've had a chance to read them:

Dennis - Welcome to the forum. But before I discuss the horn pad I want to make sure you've read the guidelines. I ask because my email to you asked you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread to introduce yourself. You didn't start the new thread to introduce yourself so I want to make sure that you did read the guidelines. We adhere to the guidelines and ask members to do the same, so we want to ensure you've had a chance to read them.

That's even better in the video than in the stills. Beautiful!

I don't know the answer to that question. I don't speak YF/A very well. Which is why I was careful to say "choke heater" as I didn't know what form it might take. But, to me, a high idle in cold weather implies the choke isn't coming off.

It will help with atomization, but not the high idle. The choke heater should be bringing the choke off, with or without heat through the air cleaner, and as the choke comes off the fast idle should drop down. If it isn't dropping down and eventually coming completely off you need to make sure that the choke heater is working and bringing the choke off. And if that's the case then figure out why the fast idle linkage may be stuck.

First prize! Well done!

You may not have to think about it any more if the gauge is working. Glad the rubbing was just the placement of the shroud. Nice, easy fix.

I call "shotgun" for this ride. If you've had that much done to it then it should be about to turn the corner to reliability. But the idle issue could be a problem. Sometimes those are tricky to diagnose.

I can relate. There is some kind of therapy in working alone, especially with music. What do you listen to, Gary? We have a subscription to SiriusXM, and as a child of the 60's I stream 60's On 6. I've tried the 50's channel, but they just play music. On the 60's channel they have DJ's, and some of them are superb. They even have some of the stars from back in the day, like Peter Noone of Herman's Hermits, who shares tidbits of what actually went on. Or why particular song was written. Little details that I love.

It'll be interesting to see if the miles to empty change between the Eddy and the Holley. But probably not worth trying the other Holley. Strange on the ground, but that sure seems like a logical conclusion from the problems you are seeing.

The Eddy looks good! Nice job on the cleaning. Are you going to put it back on or run the Holley? And it does sound like you have a ground problem. That would give weird symptoms, and those you are having would seem to fit.

I wouldn't know what to do if someone else was around. I've worked in the shop by myself for probably the last 10 years, with only a few times having company. But, I'm always playing music as it is lonely w/o it.

I'm with Scott - what are they?

I'm going to paint something before I die...lol. LOL....that's what I said! It sure does look nice. Major improvement, and well done. But I wonder why he put the saddle blanket over the seat. The way it hangs down detracts from the "crisp" look of the rest of the truck.

Thanks! It isn't urgent as I have plenty to do on other things, so let's see how this plays out.

You just remined of the EGR. The other difference...of all the 300/6 trucks I have looked at up here in Canada, the later ones (1985-1986) were all non-EGR. So not only did we not get the feedback carbs, we deleted the EGR at the same time. I'm not sure why though... Maybe I'll just order one of the earlier fuel pumps and be done with it. I should have clued in before I ordered these...the "Canadian spec" pump listing must be a mistake as the same reman carb (Autoline C6077) is listed as the replacement for the whole era with the standard YF carb. Cory - Here's what the MPC says. Looks like things changed as of 12/84, with everything prior to that getting the 1976 version pump and from that point those over 8500 GCW and all in Canada got the later design.

Merry Christmas! I have first-turn starts most of the time, am crowding 12 MPG, and the steering is pretty good. Guess I'm "there"! Seriously though, I hope all of you have a wonderful time, even if you can't be with family. (We are celebrating via Zoom today.)

Thanks, Bill! In the interim I'll re-test the pot's wiring, and if I don't find a problem I'm going to start positioning the air cleaner and PDB. Then when I get your tester I'll compare to Scott's and see if I can figure out what is going on with it.

Probably should be primed. It is raw. Glad it made it.

To bring y'all up to speed, Ty and I've been communicating in the background. Turns out my friends, Joe & Ann, who are from his home town not only know his family, Joe graduated high school with Ty's grandfather and Ann graduated with his grandmother. It truly is a small world.

You are now on the map. As for the MPG, my 460 is getting almost that much.

Bill - Looks like I'd like that tester sooner rather than later. See below. Scott - As said in the text, I can't get your tester to work properly. According to the instructions, which I've now put on this page (Documentation/Electrical/Speed Tester) the display should come on when you fire it up. But the display doesn't come on at all. Having said that, it sorta works. I can put it in the "harness test" mode and when I test the circuits going to the servo I hear a beep on each one. But I think that just tells me that the tester "saw" that I'd made a connection and then the display is supposed to say if it is correct or not. So I turned to the DVM and tested the servo, which passed. Then I tested the harness and on the first pass I found that the two outside legs of the potentiometer, meaning the P/LB and B/LG wires, connected to an O/LG wire in the Pin 7 position, which is supposed to be Servo Signal ( + ), which is either the P/LB wire or the B/LG wire. But, after testing everything else, which tested correctly, I went back to those two and couldn't repeat what I'd found. IOW, they tested perfectly. And I pulled, twisted, etc all of the wires. So I'm at a loss. I'm stuck. Any suggestions?

First, I hate the term Old Body Style and the acronym OBS. Such a meaningless waste of words/letters! Anyway, I love the truck even if they call it that or squarebody. It is still a Bullnose despite the advertiser's lack of knowledge. And it is beautiful! But, I'm not sure it is worth $21.5K. On the other hand, I'm with Dane - I kinda hope they get it.

You are now, literally, on the map.

Merry Christmas! FedUp says "Delivered Thursday 12/24/2020 at 9:47 am"