Gary Lewis

I think that's a wise decision, Matthew. As for the others being loose, it depends on where they are in the cam cycle. At TDC on the compression stroke both rocker arms should be fairly loose. But when holding a valve open that rocker should be tight as the push rod will have the rocker holding the valve open against spring pressure.

If it looks black, and particularly if it smells burnt, then change it. And, to make that job easier, albeit "slow and labor-intensive", pull what you can out via the dipstick tube. And don't forget to drain the torque converter.

Thanks, Steve. There was something in my mind that said it doesn't crossover back there, but I couldn't remember for sure. But, as you point out, there's coolant in the heads there and if the gasket let's go there's gonna be coolant down the back of the engine. Ron - Was this a new intake manifold or a used one when it went on? I ask because the manifolds are frequently eroded around that gasket surface if people don't keep new coolant in the system. That's due to the electrolysis that goes on with dissimilar metals in close proximity in the presence of a liquid. So if that manifold had erosion at that spot it would be a weak point if the pressure in the system got up. And, speaking of pressure, what is the radiator cap rated at?

Yes, a little town called Brimley near Sault Ste Marie if you know the area. No, I don't know the area. Just know of it from others I've talked to.

Plug the water pump and heater hose outlets, and put about 10 psi of air to the thermostat housing. That will show where the leak is. But a Windsor has a coolant crossover between the heads on the front and, I think, the rear of the intake manifold. If the one in the rear let go you could get coolant there.

Kevin - Welcome! You've obviously been reading the mail as you knew I'd ask about the map. Well, you are on it. You've come to the right place as we love to help. And we were all newbies at one point, so don't look down on you. Summer place in Michigan? In the UP?

That's close. VERY close. When is it coming out?

How the air cleaner works is shown here: Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners. And an EGR valve that is not closed can certainly cause problems with the engine idling. And the EGR valve can be open due to getting vacuum when it shouldn't or because there's carbon in it keeping it from closing.

To make it easier to read:

I have some '81 351M vacuum diagrams here: Underhood/Vacuum/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Diagrams/351M & 400. Is that one the same as yours? If so, we can figure it out. Are you keeping all the emissions stuff?

I LOVE IT!!!! Well done, Dave! You are going to have that thing together, soon.

I know we have another thread on this, but didn't immediately find it. Anyway, I'm planning to ultimately sell these items, and am considering loading them up on the trailer and taking them to the swap meet. Thoughts, suggestions, prices? D44HD TTB: This is the complete front end, inc the Trutrac, brakes, shocks, etc. Price? Carb'd 460: This is Big Blue's engine that ran pretty well, although it does appear to be worn such that it doesn't do well in a leak-down test. It is complete, inc the Eddy 750, Eddy intake, Eddy waterpump, and Eddy cam. Price? T19: The tranny off the back of the 460. Worked well, although the 3rd gear synchro doesn't want to be hurried at times. This is a 4wd version and has the 5.11 first gears. And it includes the bell housing. Price?

The base PN is 19D607, but so are the rings around the accumulator/drier. https://supermotors.net/getfile/883867/thumbnail/acboxout.jpg It's both, and Ford calls it an accumulator/drier. The desiccant is in a bag (or 2) inside the accumulator housing. https://supermotors.net/getfile/954277/thumbnail/accumulatorr12.jpg Here's what the catalog says:

Yes, it does. But at $28K it should.

Interesting! Does it have any #'s on it? Or, does yours?

Dave - They varied a bit through the years and by application, as you can see on the page Underhood/Fender Aprons in the menu. However, the later you go the more holes in them, so you'd be fine with about any of them and use yours as templates for where to put the holes.

I probably should have asked what version of iOS you are running to ensure I'm right about my assumptions.

I'm afraid you are seeing what several of us saw on the Project MPG thread. There is something going on with iOS devices that is causing a problem. Jonathan has an iPhone X that works fine on those things, but it doesn't have the latest version of iOS. My wife's iPad has the latest version and is having problems. Unfortunately, I don't have a fix. All I can hope is that Apple fixes it soon. Sorry!

May well be what is happening. Should help to slather either vehicle's plastic with one of the protectants.

I just spray the 303 on a towel and wipe it on. That way it doesn't get on the windshield. And, as I'm sure you know, that stuff that we find on our windshields is the plasticizer that evaporates out of the many plastics in the truck on a hot day. Back in the late 70's and early 80's I was spending a lot of time at Conoco's PCV plant in OKC. And the windshield of my '69 Bee was getting plastered with that stuff as it sat out in the parking lot. So I asked one of the chemical engineers at the plant about it and he explained how the plasticizer keeps the material flexible, but that it does bake out at high temps. And, while you can coat it with things like ArmorAll, which is pretty much all we had at the time, that really doesn't put the plasticizer back. So then our talk turned to the quality of the material. He explained that ours wasn't up to spec for GM or Ford, but was used by Chrysler - which would explain why the back seat's upholstery broke when my Lab walked across it a few days later. I think plastic/vinyl has come a long, long way since then as I don't see nearly as much plasticizer on the windshield of my vehicles as I did then. (But then, they rarely sit out.) So I'm hoping the new dash pads will last longer than they did "back in the day". But, I will also keep the one I plan to buy for Dad's truck coated with something, like 303 or the the 3M stuff.

I'll throw it in the spare parts shed. I am ordering the LUK flywheel. From what others have said, and from what I have read they made the original Ford parts? Anyway, I will post a few pictures on the Little Blue 82 thread. Don't miss what Steve said about sealing the bolts!

I just took a look through my 1984 FSM and I did't see anything relating to that bracket. The master parts catalog doesn't show it in the illustration, below, and w/o a part number I'm not sure what to look for in the text section.

I use 303 Spray. Don't know if it is really better than ArmorAll, but their writeup says it is.

Cool! As persnickety as these trucks are, it is good to be stubborn to match them.

Good find, Cory! Mind if I use that on the Cooling System/Heater Hose page?