Gary Lewis

Cool stuff Gary! Peggy's Cove is pretty famous as far as Light Houses go. It's just a few miles down the road from us. Another popular one is the Portland Head Light in Maine. That's another big tourist attraction. I'll be taking a drive out to Peggy's Cove this afternoon to get some pictures of the waves. Hurricane Dorian is just rolling in now, with the "Eye" scheduled to arrive in a couple hours. Peggy's Cove and surrounding areas are under a voluntary evacuation notice right now. Waves will be huge. Generator is all gassed up and we're all stocked up on storm supplies. Time to batten down the hatches! Cartoon from the local paper yesterday! That's funny! Post up some pics of what you see, please. As for Portland Head Light, I think it was the first pic/question, with Peggy's Cove the second.

Bedliner should come off easy then. And with good prep the new Fat Mat or whatever will adhere and protect the floor.

That makes sense. There was a city dump permit for some town in NH I'd never heard of on the quarter window, so I'm supposing it's originally from up thataway. Watching Jeopardy just now and one of the questions was about light houses. They showed one that looked familiar, so I paused it and pulled up our forum. Yup! Peggy's Cove. Their pic wasn't as good as our 'cause there wasn't a Bullnose in it.

It doesn't take 37 years to get absolutely slimey. Dunno how long Big Blue's T19 has been in, but it is a mess. I think I'm going to power wash it as well as the t-case - on low pressure. Anyway, glad you got it back together.

That is interesting. I even went back to the MPC to see if I'd missed it, but there's no 3G their either.

Exactly like the ones I have for Dad's truck. And, that's about what I paid, if I remember correctly.

Good thinking, Shaun. I'll certainly separate the two for sale.

The best way to tell is via a leak-down test. Basically, you put a cylinder on TDC on the compression stroke and inject regulated compressed air into the cylinder via the spark plug hole. There's a very small orifice in the line between two gauges, and you read the pressure on one gauge vs the other, which shows you the percentage leakage. But, you also go around listening to the intake and the exhaust to determine if a valve is leaking. An intake valve leaking will let you hear escaping air in the intake, and similarly a leaking exhaust valve will sound in the exhaust system. We don't yet have a how-to Youtube on that, but hope to soon. However, you should be able to find one pretty easily by searching.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/460-Ford-Hydraulic-Clutch-Bellhousing-With-Spacer-Fork-7-5L/323900522198?hash=item4b69f9bed6:g:1-wAAOSwxWxdaryc Thanks, David! Wow, if I could get something like that for the bell housing it would put a dent, albeit a small one, in the mounting costs on Big Blue's transformation.

Vic - I just took the Google search out of the header and footer. See what you think. However, adding text around the unlabeled search on the forum isn't as easy. That's Nabble area and things don't work quite the same. But I'll do some searching to see what I can find. And, I'll post in the Nabble Help forum. Thanks.

Jonathan - Thanks! That certainly helps.

Thanks, Ron. That helps. And it is pretty much as I expected - higher pressure may give more loss, but not dramatically more.

Had a few minutes today, so did the test. My 200a unit pulls .67a at 12.8 volts to hold the relay in. I have an original Battery Tender on those two batteries and it handled that load fine. But I have smaller HF ones on the boat, and one of them wasn't up to the task. Perhaps that particular 85a unit takes a bit more to hold in?

I used short pieces of vacuum hose. The pieces are in there to cushion things, and sometimes they get old and crumble. The pieces of hose worked perfectly.

So, 10 - 20% loss. Sure beats Big Blue's 17 - 49% loss. I think you are good to go. But, would do me a favor and try one cylinder at 100 psi? That's what I use and I'm curious of that changes the %.

I looked and couldn’t find it. But I can measure mine. However, it won’t be until later tomorrow or maybe Saturday.

If the wildness is repetitive with each revolution that could be indicative of bad valves, a bad cam, head gasket problem, etc. Things that are specific to individual cylinders. But if it is seemingly random then it could be a loose carb or something else causing an intermittent vacuum leak. Like a cracked hose that opens up as the engine shakes.

It is possible that the damper has slipped, making the timing mark off. I’ve seen that happen many times. In fact, my “new” damper on Big Blue is off by about 4 degrees. Stick a piston stop in the #1 spark plug hole to find out.

I think a come-along or ratchet strap would work better than that chain binder for pulling fence post or frames back into place. What happens is that binder only pulls it so far then locks where the come-along or ratchet strap would pull it a little farther so when released it will be in the right place. To tell the truth I don't think truckers use that type binder any more as you needed a long pipe over the handle to pull it closed and when undoing it could take your teeth out if not knock you out! Dave ---- Dave - I tried everything I had on the frame: three boomers; one come-along; and multiple ratchet straps of all sizes. The ratchet straps didn’t come close to having enough “pull” to do anything. The come-along was better, but not a lot. But the boomers, with cheaters, had lots more pull. I used multiple boomers, with each one moving it a bit more and loosening the previous ones. It was an iterative process, but successful.

#1. Cheeseburgers with chili? #2. Gary, place a basket on the registration table and allow each of us [forum members] to place $5 or $10 to help cover the costs as this should not fall on you. Just hamburgers/cheeseburgers. But they were good! Thanks, David. I appreciate it. But I enjoy making this happen, so it isn’t too much of a burden.

Not all Bullnose paints were single stage. The page at Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes has a table that shows which ones did. I put a snippet below from that page and you can see that Light Charcoal Metallic in 86 and '7 had a clear coat. So you can find your code from the certification label, look it up in the CODE column, and see if it was clear coated. EDIT: You said '81, and I don't see any of those paints having a clear coat.

I think the aftermarket replacement ones are in the $500 range too, no? I know they're bloody expensive. And, out of curiosity, was the chrome trim the same from 1980-1996? I've looked at it on other (newer) trucks at the junkyard and I thought that the 90's was a slightly different version? Hard to say though, without having two of them side by side to compare. I can't say past '89, but 1980 - 89 used the same windshield trim. So I'd bet they did well into the 90's - especially since Steve said the inside windshield trim is compatible.

That would explain the feeling through the floor. Do you have the heat shields on the motor mounts?

How should I have replied? You replied correctly. I'm just providing background info on why I'm pretty sure he'll say "Yep, 2 plugs and a blue grommet." Had it been a Windsor it would probably have had 3 plugs and a brown grommet, although that varied by location and application.

Good use for that color. No one will want it. Hey, tiny or not, 2500 more #'s would have been useful. I had all three of my boomers and the one come-along well deployed.