Gary Lewis

I, too, understand every bit of the advert. Sounds like a good point from which to pick up a project. As for what to put your thread, it is your choice. I'm not 100% sold on even having the Projects folder/section - but I'm not suggesting we get rid of it. Anyway, your call on where to put it.

If by "those codes" you mean something like G701, no they don't translate to a physical location. But, there are tables that tell. In fact, there's usually a page of the EVTM in the same section that tells the location of most of the grounds (GXX), splices (SXX), and connectors (CXX). In this case it is the very next page, shown below. But, if the thing you are looking for isn't listed you can go to the Grounds page to find a complete listing of those. However, splices and connectors can be a bit difficult to find if not on that page.

I'm going to let Steve address the other questions as those are his wiring diagrams. On the capability of that relay, the alternators of the day were only capable of ~70a, with one that the F & U series trucks never got being capable of 100a. Since it isn't likely Ford over-spec'd the thing, which would have cost them money, it is probably capable of no more than 100a. And it is interesting that Cole Hersee has a relay that handles 85a and one that handles 200a. Might those be industry standard specs? In my experience on the boat, the relay drops out within seconds of the key being turned off. I suspect that the coil current of the relay is enough to drop the voltage to the 12.7.

The schematic below shows the senders grounding via ground G701, which is on the firewall behind the radio. So I was wrong about checking the tank for being grounded as the ground comes through the cable. Sorry.

Even a tight engine will have some blow by, and many of these engines are past "tight". So some oil around the PCV valve and in the hose is to be expected.

How did it work before the last few weeks? I ask because I installed a new tank and the same sender that you installed. The first fillup took a full 16 gallons (the 5ish were put in at my friend's hangar and the 10ish we put in when we drove to town) but the gauge didn't read. I was not as smart as you and didn't test it before I installed it. So I managed to remove it without dropping the tank thinking I'd confirm that the sender was bad. But it worked just fine outside the tank. I bent the wire a bit to get it to register higher; now it reads 1/2 tank when I fill up, but I never put more than about 7 gallons in because it feels so weird driving on E, even though I suspect that when I get to E I still have another 8 gallons. Make sure your tank is grounded. And, to test your gauge, ground the Dark Blue/Yellow for the front or Yellow/Light Blue Hash for the rear. With the key on the gauge should go to Full.

The first time? How many times have there been? Something is wrong. Granted yours in an '87 with a different casting, but like Shaun I've never seen nor heard of one of those breaking in a Bullnose.

Good point on the white space, Vic. And the stuff that is now taking up space, like the dedication, picture, and prayer, would go nicely on an About page. So, what if the menu was changed to something like: AboutForumDocumentationBullnose FAQ'sCalibration....Cooling Systemsetc

It took me a while to find the TPS values, and I PUT THEM THERE. Anyway, they are on the TPS Values tab, oddly enough, here: Fuel Systems/Diagnostics.

There are places that will mix the SEM and ship it. And the SEM code is shown here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/interior-paint.html.

So, why did the pedal casting break? Is something out of alignment?

You might have to seal off a few other "leaks". But that will tell the tale.

I suppose this is a stupid question, but what happens if you remove the plastic vent tube from the filler neck all together? If you ran the gas nozzle slow, theoretically it would be better without the vent tube, right? The vent tube is just to help you fill the tank at a faster rate? I'm wondering if that little metal support in my new tank was too big and has allowed the plastic vent tube to push further into the tank?...Hmmm... I'm going to check that, and if need be I'll bend that little support a little bit to make sure the vent tube stays high. They say that no question is stupid if you don't know the answer. And I sure don't know the answer to that one. But I'll hide and watch to see the results.

Wow! What a thorough post, and a thorough approach to fixing it. But, it didn't work. I don't remember hearing of a 300 six getting out of time, but that is possible. Still, unless someone else has seen the problem, it seems remote. But you a code for the TPS and didn't mention fixing it. Have you? I've heard bad things about how the engines run when the TPS isn't right. And it would seem the engine is NOT running correctly. With those gears I would expect the 300 to handle 60 MPH and above quite well. So, if the AOD linkage is spot-on, then it must be the engine. But how does it do out of OD? With those gears it should still do quite well on the highway w/the OD locked out. Does it?

Yes, it certainly is a lot of work in a short period of time. Well done!

1983-86

That's the upper air duct for 80/87 F-U100/350 — integral A/C or Hi-Low vent

I guess just move your "About me" info to the first position (sticky) in that folder. IOW: do what you encourage others to do in that folder. Steve - Let me think about that. All - Google's statistics just came in for August and they give some information that might help our discussion about implementing a new home page. The table below shows the sources of traffic coming to the website, meaning the forum and documentation. The vast majority (73%) of the users coming here do so via a search. Only 18% come here from a link they have, not one they've been given on another site or Facebook. Links on other sites, like FTE, account for 5% of the users, and links from Facebook account for the other 4%. So let's break that down a bit. I seriously doubt that many of the 7031 users that came via a search were searching for garysgaragemahal. Instead, I'd bet they were looking for wiring diagrams or other documentation, or a discussion on the forum. In other words, a home page probably wouldn't help them? Those coming directly here were doing so from their own links, and 44% of them were coming to the forum with the rest going to specific pages they'd saved or gotten in an email - like you and me. Again, I don't see a home page helping. Of the referrals, 68% of those were from FTE and they go to specific documentation pages. (FTE doesn't like links to our forum, and took those out two years ago.) Again, when going to a specific page a new home page won't help. Last, the 403 users that are shown in "Social" were from Facebook, and most followed links to documentation. I'm not seeing a home page helping there either. What I am seeing is that greater than 90% of our users went to a specific page. (Those coming directly to the forum accounted for about 9%.) But we don't have a good way to help them see what else is available. One problem is the menu that goes away until you scroll. Another is that even if it doesn't go away, if they are on the forum it will be up above the prayer and the picture so may not be seen. But, I don't know how to fix that. So I have a proposal: Why don't I go to the Facebook pages I'm on and ask them what would make it easier for them? And if some one of you frequents FTE perhaps you could ask what could be done to make finding the DOCUMENTATION easier for them. (Do NOT mention the forum. I mentioned it once, but I think I got away with it.) Thoughts?

Thanks, David!

No one is gonna help me price these things? I know I can sell the Eddy 750 for north of $100. Ditto the Eddy intake. And the Eddy water pump should be worth something. So the whole engine should be worth?????? What about the headers? I didn't list them, but they need to go as well. HELP!

I've moved into getting all my ducks in a row for the dual battery install. What product are you going with for the switch? I like the simplicity/look of the oem solenoid but the parallel mode to allow jump starting is a nice option. I'm going to use a Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Isolator on Big Blue, but I have its little brother, the 48525, on our boat. The bigger one is rated at 200a and the little one at 85a continuous, which fits the output capability of the two alternators. The documentation is here, but my favorite features are: Automatic Parallel: The two batteries are paralleled when either battery's voltage is above 13.2V for 2 minutes. So you can pull the auxiliary battery down to zero and it won't connect that one in parallel to the starting battery during starting - like the factory relay does. Automatic Disconnect: The two batteries are isolated when both battery voltages are below 12.7V for 1 minute. So if your aux battery dies and it starts taking everything the alternator can put out and still the voltage goes south it'll drop it out of the circuit. However, it doesn't work if the main battery goes south. I know that for sure. Forced Parallel: One little switch can force it to parallel the two batteries, like if the main has gone south and the aux is up. LED: There's an output that tells you when the batteries are in parallel. I check that on the boat frequently.

Shows up in lots of the parts lists for Dana 44 front axles. But I don't think any F350's came with the D44, and certainly none of the '85 and later ones did as they had the D60. Bottom Line: Not for a D60. For some D44's, but not all of them.

Well, since that's the Bullnose bible, then it must be right. Seriously though, well found.

There are several different fasteners used in the grille and associated parts, as shown here: Fasteners & Illustrations/Front Clip/Radiator & Grille. And if you click on the blue box around one of the part numbers you'll be taken to a page that shows the fastener as well as a source, where I could find one. The interior panel fasteners don't have quite that fancy of a page: Interior/Doors/Door Panels. The panels themselves are held on by the "push pins" as Ford called them, and there's a source for those in there. But I don't have a picture nor source for the N800486. Perhaps someone else does?

Sometimes we are so close to it we wind up doing a when it becomes obvious.