Gary Lewis

It is a nice truck, but that price seems a bit high. On the other hand, as someone is want to say, you couldn't build it for that. The exhaust is certainly "interesting". Seems strange to go from two pipes to one pipe back to two pipes. Why not go with something like Magnaflow's dual in/dual out and keep the transitions down?

I don't know about Fusion 360, but I understand the headache bit. Boy did I hit my head against the wall doing the 3D for the speaker patch! Are the tubes for the bush bar welded to the side frames? I have a Ford one and the tubes bolt onto the side frames. At least one tube is bent, and I've always planned to take it off and replace it as it looks easy. If I remember correctly, the tube has a piece welded in the end and it has a nut welded to it.

Yep, it is nice. And it is expensive!

I checked and he’s already found one at Tasco.

That is cool! What software do you use to drive it? And to draw in? Think you'll branch out into push bars?

Yes, it kind of completes the picture.

For both the 460 and the IDI. Interesting that you found this today. Yesterday a guy on Facebook was sure these aren't available.

80/86 F—U100/350 - - gas EOTZ 17360-A #E0TF 17360—AA, E6TF 17360-AA-6000 RPM - use w/appropriate 10K843

80/86 F100/350(Reg. Cab) EOTZ 10502B84-A

80/82 F-U100/350 (99) EOTZ 17906-B r/bE2TZ 17906-B Painted low gloss black-dealer paint to match

Yes, those are correct for the Bullnose trucks.

Yellow would be my guess. But, maybe they are greenish?

Had another sorta big day today, documentation wise. Took a bunch of documentation out to the ladies who do the scanning I can't do, including several from Shaun. But, some of the things I could do so here's what I did. And, I need your help on some of them. Emissions Info: Here's one place I need help. I have a book called 1985 CAR & TRUCK ENGINE/EMISSION FACTS ROOK SUMMARY which has some info on the emissions systems as well as a very good glossary of terms, a parts symbol identification chart, and all the 1985 calibration codes, which includes the vacuum diagrams. I scanned in only the 112 pages applicable to our trucks and put the document on a tab called 1985 Emissions Info on the Documentation/Calibration Info & Part #'s page. I'd really appreciate it if you'd look it over and help me figure out where it really ought to go. CB Radio: Shaun sent several documents that I could scan, and they are on the Instructions tab and include: 1980 Light Truck Exterior Colors: This is on the Documentation/Literature/1980 Literature page and shows the colors as well as the Tu-Tone options for the trucks. And it is from Shaun as well. 1986 Literature: I added a couple of documents here:

Thanks, Jim! I would have forgotten the lube for the splines.

That is tough to answer, so I'll just post this from the 1985 brochure:

Thanks, David.

I'm using the original Eastwood gun, but if I were buying now I'd go with their dual voltage gun, both shown here. However, you should consider the starter kit. But there are other brands, including Harbor Freight, and I don't know how much better or worse they are. Here are some things you'll need: High temp tape: Use this in masking where you don't want powder, like bearing races or where seals go, and to hold aluminum foil in place when masking with it High temp plugs and caps: The silicone-based plugs and caps are essential in keeping powder out of places it shouldn't be Wire: Their stainless wire works nicely to hang things from, but any bare wire w/o any oil on it would work Media blasting: You really have to have parts CLEAN in order to powder coat them, and I find media blasting them to be the best way to clean them - after you've gotten the grease and oil off first Gloves: You can't touch the parts once they are clean, so the thin throw-away gloves are very handy Brake cleaner: Media blasting will leave dust on the parts that air doesn't seem to take off, so I spray the parts with brake cleaner Oven: I got by very well for quite some time with a $35 kitchen range from a second-hand store. That can work for intake manifolds, valve covers, etc but won't work for a transfer case. I now have a used but commercially-made oven that is 3' x 3' x 6' tall. Compressed air: It only takes ~6 psi to waft the powder onto the parts, so any compressor will work Powder: I'm still using Eastwood's powder, although I've read there is better and cheaper powder

Didn't expect to get anything done on Big Blue today for two reasons. First, we had a doctor's checkup in Tulsa today and that usually takes a lot of the day. We were early and things went perfectly so we got home early. And second, I planned to take the rest of the day to scan things in. But, the new rear tranny mount came in today so I just couldn't help installing it since that will be lots easier than after the t-case is on. So I'll start on assembling the t-case tomorrow. But the rear crossmember is now all buttoned down.

Interesting. There are three different ones, and I don't understand the difference. Perhaps someone can help? In other words, what is the diff between the yellow and green ones? Which ones were used one which trucks?

The bumper and wheels look pretty good. Maybe you could save it, Shaun?

It is a nice truck. But I think it is slightly overpriced. Not that you could recreate it for that, as you couldn't. But you should be able to get it for a bit less. However, it does look clean and straight.

Thanks, Jim.

Thanks, Bill. I thought that was the case.

Okiehoma is a yoyo - two days ago it was 70. Today snow and 29. Two days from now 60. Drove Blue in 4A mode today, meaning automatic 4wd. A setting only the top-end trucks have. It was fun to see the power distribution switch from the rear axle to the front and then back as we encountered slushy conditions.