Gary Lewis

Rick - Your videos look great and showcase Lucille nicely. She'll go for a lot. I can't tell you how much it is worth, but here's what Hagerty says about it. Hope that helps.

Too late, some say I'm already off my rocker. Yes, I could show Janey and tell her we aren't doing that bit so we'll skip ahead. In fact, I can show her the book and the lollipop with the side we aren't doing that says "This side of loop is extremely difficult" and explain that we aren't doing that. On the sliders, if we can stay off the rocker then I'm ok. Even if I scrape or bend the bottom of one of the steps I'm fine. One of them already had a scrape when I got them so it wouldn't be a huge loss. In fact, I'd toyed with doing that already. I saw a Youtube where a guy bent a piece of square tubing in a smooth bend by slicing wedges out of it and then rewelding it. But instead of then sucking that up to the bracket with a 3/4" bolt I'd weld the tubing to the bracket. Would be quite solid.

Ok, I'm watching and taking notes. Yes, some of their vehicles aren't quite as capable as BB, but my approach angle probably isn't as good as theirs. So it will be an interesting day. But I don't want that guy to be my cook as he doesn't know a hot dog from an hamburger. And that section coming down the backside of the lollipop definitely looks like something to skip! I'll pass. "Right now the camera is totally level, and you are at ... a pretty big angle." This is not something I think I should show Janey. Not sure she will understand that we aren't doing the backside of the lollipop, but maybe? Overall, that looks like a real challenge, but I think we can do it. Speaking of rocks and sliding (we weren't?), I don't actually have rock sliders. I just have aluminum step bars. I'm wondering if I should think about making sliders? I could use the mounts, which are STRONG, and go from there.

Hope it holds for him, and I'll bet it will. So far I've had excellent luck with it.

Got a couple of cans of Regatta Blue ordered this morning from Vinyl Pro. Should be in on Thursday. Boy are those people good to deal with. And then I got the holes in the console filled. The G-Flex is setting up right now, but here are a couple of pics. The pic on the left is the console after hitting the area around the holes with a propane torch. You'll see a whitish color outside of that area, and that is what the console looks like after scrubbing with a gray scrub pad and Dawn soap. But the flame brought the color back. And the pic on the right is with the holes filled - and after I used my fingers to smear a few of the tiny "hairs" of glue that were outside the holes. In most cases the epoxy is domed slightly above the level of the console so I can cut it back a bit after it sets.

I don't know about mods to the C6, but regardless of what you do to it you'll still not have an overdrive nor a lockup torque converter. And those two things would be worth at least 1 if not 2 or more MPG on the highway - especially given your 4.10 gears. Plus they'll make it quieter in the cab and make the overall cruise much more relaxed. But, with the M-Block you are limited to the E4OD for an automatic or the ZF5 for a manual if you want OD. The E4OD requires a controller, which will cost around $750ish. But it'll give you a much better highway experience.

Daniel - Let's tag Ron/Reamer as he's the one doing that.

Just saw this on Facebook.

Ok Gary, I got it. They are different style… There is the « folded up » style: And the « flat » style: And they all use a retainer clip. Didn’t find any NOS or used on the web, so a custom made knob is probably a good solution. Thanks for the leg work, Jeff.

Progress! But the dizzy was locked down after #1 was on the compression stroke? And glad that page helped.

I bought Nylon fuel line from Amazon and the Dorman fittings and the tool to install them. Made all new lines.

Probably a good idea.

Well done! Bolting it to the head and letting it cure is a good idea. I will assure you that wet RTV will cause a gasket to find a way to slip out, one way or another. Congratulations!!!

You should be ready to do the deed. Here’s hoping it goes well.

I went with a 96 EFI fuel system, meaning tanks, filler hoses, fuel delivery modules (pumps, sending units, and internal switching valves), fuel lines, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel rails. All of that fit perfectly but required a MeterMatch to interface the sending units to the earlier gauges. Through 86 Ford ran gauges with a heating coil under a thermometer that was the gauge. And the voltage to make the gauge go to the peg was less than 6v. In 87 that changed and the gauges require a totally different range of voltage, so the sending units are very different. That's the reason for the MeterMatch. But now I have a system that can easily be maintained as the parts are available off the shelf and at a reasonable price. And the tanks fill easily.

Yes, I fully understood what you were trying to say and what was happening. But had I not been au fait with the West Systems instructions, thanks to you, I'd have not twigged. So the explanations weren't needed for me but surely will help the others. And I do intend to drill a few of holes in each arm. While the one on the driver's side has the notches and the coating isn't likely to come off, the one on the passenger's side has nothing to keep it on but adhesion. So a few holes should make a big difference.

Gary, I know I am very late, but this Dennis Carpenter knob cannot fit? EDIT: Out of stock! But this part number pops up NOS here and there on the web. Jeff - Thanks. It might fit the passenger's side given the shape. But I don't think it would the driver's side as it is flat. I really don't remember what the tracks came off of, so can't be sure. But I think the Plasti Dip will work well. It won't have the "finished" look the proper knob would, but I think it'll be acceptable.

Yesterday's pic of the rusty tag. I, too, wish you had the money to fix your truck.

I was, but I've now gone to fuel injection, which has its own regulator and return line. When I got Big Blue the fuel system was a mess and the way orifice part of the hot fuel handling system was plumbed was awful. So I took the orifice bit out and put a return-style regulator in its place and it worked well.

It sure looks a lot better.

Well done!

Sorry guys, Janey and I've been watching movies to celebrate her knew-found freedom and I missed your posts. But Bob is exactly right, as always. You sure don't want to put that much pull on a drop hitch. Instead my recovery point is a direct pull and is solid. Plus my winch line is synthetic. I think we are good.

I think your Android is playing games with you. But I know what you are saying. However, here are the instructions directly from West Systems user's manual:

I've not done a cast iron manifold on a 460, but that trick works on a 351W - although you do have to make sure you lower the manifold "level" with respect to the engine. DAHIK. And since the 460 manifold is HEAVY, that might be a chore.