Gary Lewis

Yes, I remember those sheets. Never tried them though. I think the epoxy will hold, but I'll prep the plastic as if I'm getting ready to paint it before applying the epoxy. That should give it the best possible chance of adhering. Then once I get the new paint I'll prep it again. Speaking of the new paint, I'm keeping enough of the "old" paint to do the finish coat with on the console. That way even if the new paint is slightly different in color the lid and the console will match.

The area is pretty big, so I'd have to do it a hole at a time if I made an impression. But I'm not too worried about the texture. So what I'm thinking of doing is using box tape on the back side and then fill the hole from the outside using a toothpick. I might even be able to put some texture in it as it cures. I think I'll try that approach on one hole and see how it goes.

Good idea, Jim. I do have some left. Now let's talk about how best to use it: Put a piece of tape on the inside of the console covering the holes and poke some of the G-Flex through the holes from the outside, leveling it off as it runs in. This would ensure that I don't make a mess as I can scrape any excess off before it sets. Put Saran Wrap on the outside and hold it in place tightly with some kind of cushion to ensure it is pushed down in the texture, and then smear G-Flex on from the inside and allow it to run down/out against the Saran Wrap. This approach worries me as the Saran Wrap may not be tightly against the console and allow the G-Flex to run out and make a big, ugly blob on the side. In either approach I'm not much worried about the inside as I'm going to cover the inside with felt. But what do you think of those approaches? Are there other, better ones?

Guys, be VERY CAREFUL if using the hitch as a recovery point. Remember this tragic accident . « The father of three died instantly according to his wife, with his three children behind him in the back seats, unfortunately bearing witness to the whole ordeal.» Being aware of that danger, I suppose that, if I was to use such towing way, I would attach a supplemental “cable to frame” link, so if the hitch breaks, the cable will not spring all the way back and will stay attached to the vehicle. And why not install such “safety link” at each end of the towing cable? Also, I know that a chain is heavy to carry, but it’s not like an “elastic” stretching cable. When it breaks, it simply drops, no? Jeff - Good point. But the part in my picture has a solid cross section, not hollow like the one in that tragic incident. So it isn't going to fail. In fact, that's what was meant by the author of that article when he said "If you’re ever going to be pulling on or from a trailer hitch on a 4x4, you need to ensure that you have the proper insert, specifically one that can be used with recovery shackles." However, you are right that something might fail. So we will have to be very very careful. And a chain from the vehicle to the end of the winch cable or recovery strap would be a good idea as it would stop things from flying back at the other truck. Thanks!

That's funny! My poor grandmother had grandsons named Jerry, Terry, and Gary so had problems on what to say at times. But computers are somewhat critical about errors, so I'm not surprised that your browser didn't find the site.And yes, the brake bleeding is as described in that video - power bleeding. But all you need is a spare cap, a hose barb, and a garden sprayer. Just pump up a bit of pressure and it'll push the fluid through the lines to each wheel.

Excellent! Glad to have that confirmed. And have you thought about getting a spare cap for it and putting a hose barb in it so you can pressurize the system for bleeding? Sure makes it an easy job. On the rear axle seal, you've found the instructions on how to R&R them?

Got the lid to the console cleaned and painted today, as shown below. And for reference I used the process I set out in this post. But I'm sure I don't have enough paint to do the console itself, so will have to wait until Monday to order more from Vinyl Pro. And for posterity, that's SEM 4130 Regatta Blue. While waiting on that to come in I'll work on the console as it has some holes in it that I'd like to plug before I paint. So I'm looking for recommendations on how to do that. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif Here's what I'm wanting to plug: And here's the lid: Last, in case someone wants to know at some point, here's the ID # info from the console, on the left, and the lid:

Congratulations!!! You are keeping life fun and active!

You are making good progress. How are you making your cables? I found that with the number of cables I needed the best way was to make them myself. So I bought a small hydraulic crimper and use very high quality terminals and adhesive-lined shrink tubing. It works out really well as I get the cables just the length I need.

Progress!!!!

Mat - I plan on painting the tracks and the adjusting arm. I knew they didn't look good, but was blown away with how bad they are until I got them beside the platform today. Jim - I'm not painting the moving parts, just the parts that are visible. I'm going to try to use the etching primer and paint I used on the platform. That's going to mean a lot of cleaning as the lube I've used has migrated everywhere. We shall see how it goes.

Got the Plasti Dip on order from the local Ace Hardware for $15. Will be in next Wednesday. Amazon wanted $35, and while that's probably twice the size I don't need that much and it'll go bad before I use it all. (Got a can of yellow from Dad after he passed and it was hard.)

Jim - I had wondered why not use the valley pan, but now I think I understand. Thanks!

All the time.

Sounds like a plan. I think the idea of media-blasting it is good to give it grip.

I'm the archivist. You suggested we archive that document, so I did and even remembered where I put it.

Vivek - Glad you like the outcome. Jim - Hadn't thought about Plasti Dip. In fact, I've never used it. I thought it was just a dip, but when I looked it up on Amazon I now see that there are spray cans of it. Wouldn't the dip be the way to go? I can get some of the dip and pull the seat tracks off to dip them - maybe dip them a couple of times. The indentions on the driver's lever will help hold it on, but I wonder about drilling a hole in both levers so the dip can flow through and give it more grip?

Inert gas, which exhaust gas is, slows the flame advance. So they increase the spark advance significantly when the vacuum is high, like at cruise. Given that, you have to dial the advance back or you'll have spark knock.

The Crane instructions are on our site at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Instructions tab and then the Crane Cams Instructions tab.

And now back to our regularly-scheduled program. The platform and seats are installed, with pics to prove it happened down below, and it is time to start preparing the console for paint. But I have a question for y'all. The slide handles for the seats don't have "knobs" on them. The DS one is 1/2" wide and the flat is about 1" long, but the PS one is folded into a U. You can see this in the last two pics. I'd like to put something on them that looks a bit more finished than nada, so do you have any suggestions? I could pull the PS one and flatten it to make it take the same knob as the DS if needed.

I've had plenty of core plugs fail, and they fail from the inside out. One minute they look new and the next they are leaking. Since you don't know how good the coolant has been for the last 30+ years...

If I had an engine out I'd replace the soft/core plugs. They are a huge PAIN to replace in the vehicle and easy now.

"It's impressive to process documents that large, but the model, like every large language model, is highly likely to confabulate interpretations across large contexts. We wouldn't trust it to soundly analyze 1 million tokens without mistakes, so that's putting a lot of faith into poorly understood LLM hands."

The breaker is a 20A unit, so I'm quite limited on what I can put in. The label below is off that heater, which shows that it is a GE model GE06P06SAG, and it measures 16" in diameter and 15 1/2" high, which is obviously as high as it can go. And the 2KW means it can pull 17A @ 120V, so that 20A circuit is adequate. But it also limits what can go back. And here's what the setup looks like: