Diary of a Restore (Thread)

Update 2:  Well, what a difference a few days makes.  While I wait for the parts, I fired up the truck to see if I could see the point when the water leaks--it is when the thermo open and the truck is warm, and then the top weep hole begins to fill.

I also rechecked the underneath at the c2.  There is a definite drip from the botton of the plastic housing, but I also noticed, there was a lot of fluid collecting around the Gear Box.  The amount is more than the rate of the drip from the C2.

I suspect my gear box seal is shot????!!!!

It looks to be the original box, and never touched.

Because of Gary's suggestions in an older thread, I will be calling Blue Top tomorrow.  I figure replace it all.  Maybe the steering with be tighter too since the box on it now is no doubt original.

I think that’s a good plan. You will be happy.

Are you sure your steering box is leaking? (Input or output seal) and not just a line or fitting?

Blue Top is a nice upgrade!    If they're not already covered in fluid you might want to start putting PB Blaster (or similar) on those three bolts where they thread through the mounting flange. They are oddball bolts and if threads get buggered you're not going to find them at your local hardware.
The C2 and Ford box take Type F transmission fluid. I would definitely replace the pressure and return lines if I intended to change the pump and sector box.
A crowsfoot wrench is almost a necessity on those steering box flare nuts. You can find a cheap set at Horrid Fate. 💡

I haven't seen a "top" weep hole on a water pump but I haven't ever owned a truck with a 335 engine either.
So, it only seems to leak under pressure? Do you have access to a coolant system pressure tester?
..."rental" from one of the chain stores??? (you'll want to "rent" a steering pump pulley puller/installer at any rate)
It's certainly easier to track a leak down when the engine isn't vibrating and the fan blowing.

Sounds like you're getting all your ducks in a row.  

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Are you sure your steering box is leaking? (Input or output seal) and not just a line or fitting?

Blue Top is a nice upgrade!    If they're not already covered in fluid you might want to start putting PB Blaster (or similar) on those three bolts where they thread through the mounting flange. They are oddball bolts and if threads get buggered you're not going to find them at your local hardware.
The C2 and Ford box take Type F transmission fluid. I would definitely replace the pressure and return lines if I intended to change the pump and sector box.
A crowsfoot wrench is almost a necessity on those steering box flare nuts. You can find a cheap set at Horrid Fate. 💡

I haven't seen a "top" weep hole on a water pump but I haven't ever owned a truck with a 335 engine either.
So, it only seems to leak under pressure? Do you have access to a coolant system pressure tester?
..."rental" from one of the chain stores??? (you'll want to "rent" a steering pump pulley puller/installer at any rate)
It's certainly easier to track a leak down when the engine isn't vibrating and the fan blowing.

Sounds like you're getting all your ducks in a row.  

There is definitely a small weep hole at the top behind the pulley.  Incidentally, Rock Auto sent me the wrong pump today, the second time they have sent the wrong part to me.  I mean this was not even close and came with a dual pulley pressed onto it.  

As to the leak—definitely NOT coming from any of the hoses on the gear box or otherwise.  The lower part of the intermediate shaft at the steering wheel/worm shaft is wet all around.  This tells me a seal.  

While I was at it today, I plotted my dissembling the parts—Blastered the bolts to prep them.  Started to check the intermediate shaft.

Up to the place it connects at the firewall, it has a lot of PLAY—up down—side to side.

First pics of the int shaft


then what RA sent me.  GRRRRRRRR.

So here's the plan:  

I received the LARES new C2 today.  it looks great.  It came with a nut, washer, and bolt--I assume to press on the new pulley.

I returned the Water pump yesterday, and with all the coupons I had, ordered one from Advance, for rather cheap.  

Given that the int. shaft is shot and not fixable, I decided to go with a Borgeson.  My only question is the 980 or 985.  Anyone have experience with both?  Is dampening really necessary.  I noted in the Borgeson cat, that they mention it is for low profile tires, and other stiff rides.  Thoughts?

When all the parts arrive, and I am sure they will fit, I will order the Blue Top.  I want to do all this at once.

So here's the list of what I am going to do over the break (if lucky) that I tried to stave off until closer to Spring.  Oh well--the immediate list:

Replace Water pump

Replace C2

Replace Gear Box (Upgrade)

Replace Intermediate Shaft (upgrade)

Install Step Bars (mounted to Frame--got a sweet deal on some Westin's!)

Install Wheel opening Trim (not OEM but giving it a shot)

And the Spring List:

Stud/Dent work on the Wheel Tubs, reshoot the affected areas of the bed

Pinstriping

Reupholster the Bench (I have an 87+ Bench in it--was changed out before I came into possession at some point)

Change Headliner back to stock (green hunting motif up there now)

Dash:  crack repair--likely using the open up crack/bondo method.  SEM paint to match.  AND Still need to figure out how to repair the speaker grill area.

Tearing into the back brakes--Just want to look--seems to be sticking when park brake is released)

New tires.  305s on it now--want to scale back--255, 265.

And I have not even mentioned all I have to do to the Harley--but that's another forum.

Cheers!

A BAD cold/cough wayliad me for a week.  So, I am finally at the point of ordering the gear box.  

I am going to order new bolts too.  LMC states they have 7/16-14 x5 ¼ bolts for the box.  Washers are extra.  Expensive.

Most people can easily find the 5 ½ bolts online or maybe at a hardware store.  But it is rather difficult to do so.  Search for 5.25 on length and you will find some grade 8s for relatively more affordable price than even LMC.  

I think the issue is not having threads digging into the frame rail.
The factory bolts have a long shank at full diameter.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I think the issue is not having threads digging into the frame rail.
The factory bolts have a long shank at full diameter.

I thought the length was related to the threads running out on the gear box side?  

Got this today.  It will definitely need painting!

Oh, that's nice!  
How much do you need to cut the shaft down?

ASME says bolts under 6" should get threads 2x diameter plus 1/4" (so 1 1/8" of threads on a 7/16 diameter)
I don't recall how thick my frame was when I changed the steering box.
Fortunately the factory bolts were in good shape and I reused them.

Yes, that steering shaft is very nice.  Should take a whole lot of slop out.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Oh, that's nice!  
How much do you need to cut the shaft down?

ASME says bolts under 6" should get threads 2x diameter plus 1/4" (so 1 1/8" of threads on a 7/16 diameter)
I don't recall how thick my frame was when I changed the steering box.
Fortunately the factory bolts were in good shape and I reused them.

I am not sure at this point how much I will need to cut.  Blue Top not here yet.  When I put it in, I will measure 3 times and cut!  Will update.

Have not done much.  It has been too cold, and still waiting on the blue top to arrive.  

However, it warmed up to 70 yesterday, and I got the step bars on.  

They look good!  

Nice! Good looking truck.

its looking good. I noticed the one piece of lower body molding in place. we had an 82 delivered Monday for another build and that is the only trim piece our truck is missing. pretty sure I have one in storage though

mat in tn wrote

its looking good. I noticed the one piece of lower body molding in place. we had an 82 delivered Monday for another build and that is the only trim piece our truck is missing. pretty sure I have one in storage though

I debated about putting it on.  But I found a few of them at the local pick.  

When I was doing the body work, The two holes were for that piece were bondoed over.  I thought I would find evidence of either welded posts, or holes for the rest of the trim.  I did not.  I decided to keep it anyway even though it looks a little out of place.

The molding you see is I THINK post 82—I THINK they usually used the “bright” molding on the 80-81 but my memory fails me.  Finding the bright molding is difficult.  BUT, that molding you see you should be able to piece together if not from a pick, from Dennis C or LMC.  I think between the two, you will find that piece.  

AmericanSavage wrote

Have not done much.  It has been too cold, and still waiting on the blue top to arrive.  

However, it warmed up to 70 yesterday, and I got the step bars on.  

Nice truck!

First, thank you everyone for the comments and encouragement.  Much appreciated!

OK, I started prepping the truck for the massive work I haver to do this week.  I figured I would get as much out of the way as possible before the gear box gets here—which is Wednesday.  I probably will not get to anything until Friday as I want to replace the water pump, power steering, Int shaft and gear box in one day.

I will let the water pump sit snug overnight (after applying the Right Stuff on both sides of gasket then torque and be done on Saturday).  It will be in the 60s as the high, so even though the Right Stuff is supposed to cure in like 90 minutes, I am going to let it sit.  Then pray no leaks.

Here is the old water pump—you can see clearly the leak tracks out the top weep hole.  Bearing has play in it as well, and squeaks when I turn by hand.  

Cheers!

Thought I would update—sorry it has been so long.  I had a bad headcold over the holiday (Christmas).  Not fun.  Then my boss came to the job with a horrendous respiratory infection, and infected us all—but hey she wore a mask.  I will refrain from commentary other than that.

So, got the Blue top in, and the Borgeson.  Had to cut a foot off the Borgeson, but the job was really easy.

The bolts I ordered would have worked if they had the same depth of threads—see pic.  So, I added a THICK LARGE washer to each of the three bolts and that worked.  I could have cut the threads, but I did not have my vice and tap/die handy.

I do not know if it works yet as I am dealing with the water pump/timing cover issue.  But, I can say it feels tighter than it was not running.

Also, I had a devil of a time getting the pittman on, and so had to disconnect a lot of the linkage to get it all to fit again.  One wheel (d side) seemed to creep in about an 1/8th of an inch, and so, had to maneuver it “outward” to get that linkage to line up.  Anyone experience such a thing?

More on the itming cover in that thread.

Nice! That looks good in there!