Diary of a Restore (Thread)

I am still looking for the diagram of the 9 port Ford car piece.  Will update if I find.

I started thinking—I have 2 white/yellow body 19b888b vacuum bodies. And I rescued 1 extra control from the pick. I have the pieces that broke on mine.  It snapped off just above the retaining washer.  The rest seems to still work—the lever and the round disk with the rubber routing based on position.  So, why would not this work? (below)  It has enough clearance on both sides.  I used a ¼ 2” long bolt, washers, and a nylon locking nut.  Needs to be that long to get ahold of the spring and compress it.

IF most break in this way, I do not see why anyone would need to look into a swap.  Cheap and easy mod.?

I think that should work nicely.  

Do you have a fix for the broken plastic studs the nuts go on to hold the hose manifold to that switch?
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

Do you have a fix for the broken plastic studs the nuts go on to hold the hose manifold to that switch?
Dave ----

Hey Dave,

You mean these ears on the vacuum unit 19b888B?  Or do you mean the control itself?

Well here we go again!

I have been a bit absent lately because of an issue that came up, not unexpected.  The issue is why I have not pursued the 70s 9 port vacuum unit that was on ford cars until 1979.

A few days ago I noticed a small wet spot under the truck on P side.

Crawled under, and sure enough—antifreeze coming from a freeze plug behind the motor mount.    This was is on the same side I pulled a handful or more of rust when I changed out the plug as I began my body work months ago.  I changed out the D side plug near the exhaust manifold when I failed to jack up truck to access them a few weeks ago, and decided to change the oil pan gasket in situ—still NO LEAKS there!

SOOOOO, much discussion with my friend mechanic, and we figured we had to pull the engine.  Why?  Small pin head amount on the bell housing.  We figured the 351M had a rear plug behind the bell housing.  So, the thought was, it has to come out.

I sleuthed last night.  From all I can tell, the 351M/400, and the 351C never had a rear freeze plug.  The stainless steel plug (there is no brass one in a kit for the rear plug) covers the cam, and it is a tunnel to the cam.  @Fuzzface2 should be able to confirm this.

So, now what?  As far as I can see, if I do not have to pull the engine, there is still the problem of the 4 remaining freeze plugs are behind the motor mount.  How to do it?

Near as I can tell, this is what needs happen, please offer your 2 cents.

First thing to come off is the exhaust manifolds.  That allows access ot the top motor mount bolt on the engine.  The engine needs be held up with a hoist, and then remove the motor mount AND THE BRACKET by sliding it rearward.  

This will expose the two plugs, which I think can be accessed from below, or through the frame.  The angle is tricky here.


Engine will need to remain on hoist while doing all this.  Thoughts.  Anyone changed those plugs in situ held up by a hoist?

I put some BLUE DEVIL in it today—friend gave me a bottle, and said, try it—might get you through the winter.  In the meantime, I have ordered exhaust manifold gaskets.  I am deathly worried about busting a bolt on removal—there are NO studs on it now.  If I manage to get them all out, friend mechanic suggested changing them all to grade 8s, and use anti-sieze.  

In other news, I had this annoying interior light pulsation on idle.  Today I changed out the ground strap. It had to have been original Ford strap as I could see a partial part # code stamped on the casing, which was mostly gone. Hard to believe, PROBLEM SOLVED!  So there’s that.

These trucks are onions - you peel and cry, peel and cry.  But soon you have enough for a Bloomin' Onion!

Yes, I've changed a soft plug out with the engine still in the truck, and while I think it was a 351M I can't say for sure.  However, while I do have an engine hoist I didn't use it.  Instead I jacked the engine up with a block of wood under the harmonic balancer and then stuck wood between the crossmember and the pan as a safety.  The reason for the safety is that the balancer being round means the block could slip, but even if you use a shop crane you need some kind of safety.

And I don't remember pulling the exhaust manifolds.  I may have dropped the exhaust, but I'm pretty sure I didn't pull the manifolds - that's asking for trouble and I try to avoid doing that.

But I think I pulled the outside edge of the fender liner loose and worked through an opening there on one of them.  I distinctly remember it being next to impossible to get directly on the new plug to drive it in w/o coming through the wheelwell.

EDIT: Meant to congratulate you on at least one problem solved.  

Gary Lewis wrote

These trucks are onions - you peel and cry, peel and cry.  But soon you have enough for a Bloomin' Onion!

Yes, I've changed a soft plug out with the engine still in the truck, and while I think it was a 351M I can't say for sure.  However, while I do have an engine hoist I didn't use it.  Instead I jacked the engine up with a block of wood under the harmonic balancer and then stuck wood between the crossmember and the pan as a safety.  The reason for the safety is that the balancer being round means the block could slip, but even if you use a shop crane you need some kind of safety.

And I don't remember pulling the exhaust manifolds.  I may have dropped the exhaust, but I'm pretty sure I didn't pull the manifolds - that's asking for trouble and I try to avoid doing that.

But I think I pulled the outside edge of the fender liner loose and worked through an opening there on one of them.  I distinctly remember it being next to impossible to get directly on the new plug to drive it in w/o coming through the wheelwell.

EDIT: Meant to congratulate you on at least one problem solved.  

Hey Gary,

I have the leak halted--as least for now thanks to Blue Devil.  BUT, I am not going to let this problem slide. I would like to get at it before the cold comes.

However my fitment/exhaust is, even with my fender liner, which is not in the way,  the exhaust blocks the bolt.  I may try from above.  In other words, I am trying to figure out how to get a socket on the top of the triangle to remove the bolt, and then see if I can actually screw it back on.  At this time, I have not figured that out.  So, I may end up removing the exhaust--I am speaking of pass side here mostly as that is the side that was leaking, and I can see with a light, the most forward plug has evidence of spew.

I do not need to remove the exhaust to replace the plugs--they will be accessible from below I am quite confident--there will be room to tap them in, but only if the bracket AND mount is totally removed.
 

On the electrical--thank you.  I t is rather amazing to me how a simple ground issue solves a plethora of problems.

I frequently put nuts in sockets with a paper towel so the nut stays in.  But good luck to you!  

Gary Lewis wrote

I frequently put nuts in sockets with a paper towel so the nut stays in.  But good luck to you!

Just an idea, never tested it, but I'm curious to know if somebody ever tried to magnetize a socket same we can do with a screwdriver?

I've not tried that.  But it would be cool if you could - assuming it would hold a nut in rather than eject it.

There’s these critters,

https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-522-19-Piece-Magnetic/dp/B00ILLNSY0/ref=asc_df_B00ILLNSY0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309811990469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5979608605695343267&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033130&hvtargid=pla-570695753503&psc=1

I used to ball up masking tape sticky side out and put them in my sockets.

So you are saying the magnet doesn't stick well enough to the bottom of the socket, so you use a ball of masking tape to hold it in?

No, I never bought those, someone else had them.

I just used masking tape. One thing I liked is masking tape is just sticky enough so that the socket doesn’t stick to the nut when I pulled the ratchet out of whatever tight spot I was in.

A magnet can't reject something that isn't already magnetized.
I have some ring neodymium magnets that are big enough to fit over a 1/4" extension up against the back of a socket.
They hold.

Like the others here I usually grab a shop towel, tape or whatever is handy

To all:  

I love this idea—a paper towel or magnet—that MIGHT be the way to get the motor mount back IN.  

I can see the bolt (with a mirror), and even put my hand on it….but the space is tight to get it started both on removal and installation.  I can get a socket on it, but had little success in getting the ratchet to function.  Hence, this may take a combo universal snap on, and various extensions with the paper towel/magnet to work.  

Thank you to everyone for commenting!

Good luck!  

Hey All,

I have taken a lot of time off the project—work, and cold (well cold for me), weather.  I can take heat—it’s the cold I loathe to work in.

Anyway….UPDATE:

I have slowly accumulated a few things for what I hoped would be after holidays/spring work:  wheel well trim, pinstripes, dent weld gun (gonna tackle that bed wheel tub issue and reshoot the interior!), etc.  

On the pin stripes—I am matching to what Gary posted on his site here—Type 2 looks to be the one that most fits my year, etc.

Then, today, fired it up as I do once a week at least.  

Freeze plugs are holding after using blue diamond.  Still no oil leaks….BUUUUUUUUUT:

Heard a small knocking whine from someplace ONLY when the engine warms up, and crawled under.  Saw 2 things:  1) looks like the junk yard power steering pump is leaking oh so slight. But that is not the source of the whine when it gets warm.

 Take a guess.


2) water pump was leaking oh so slight, dropping off oil pan, hitting fan wind, and blowing onto cross member.  I opened hood and peaked at the little hole on top of the water pump—anti freeze coming from it.

I am almost certain that little knocking whine is coming from the pump—like a bearing is failing.  SO, it looks like I will be replacing the water pump and power steering (again!).

Any advice on the water pump install/removal I am all ears.  I have the light manual and I changed one several decades ago on my 86 Bronco 2, but that was ages ago.

Anyway, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year everyone!

I'm no 335 expert but basic things to look out for:
Be VERY careful taking the water pump bolts out. You DON'T want to break one off.  🤬

I take a sharpie and using the new pump trace a rough outline on the box and each show each bolt hole.
Then poke holes with a knife and stick each bolt in its place. (this prevents mixing up the lengths and missing any hidden fasteners)

Also use sealant on the bolts going back in (I like Loctite PST) to prevent corrosion without actually locking them in.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I'm no 335 expert but basic things to look out for:
Be VERY careful taking the water pump bolts out. You DON'T want to break one off.  🤬

I take a sharpie and using the new pump trace a rough outline on the box and each show each bolt hole.
Then poke holes with a knife and stick each bolt in its place. (this prevents mixing up the lengths and missing any hidden fasteners)

Also use sealant on the bolts going back in (I like Loctite PST) to prevent corrosion without actually locking them in.

Thank you!  

Been a heck of a holiday season for us—flat tires on the Chrysler (wife’s car), dishwasher circuit board tanked, Harley Ignition module tanked, and now this on the Ford.  UGH!

Cheers!

Sometimes it's one thing after another!  😖

I hope things go smoothly and you (and family) have a great holiday season!