Diary of a Restore (Thread)

You can get a suction gun (big metal syringe) at Horrid Fate for $12.
This can work for both emptying and filling a diff.

But I'll say that Valvoline (and Amsoil) now offer gear lube in a bag with a long(ish) spout.
This makes filling a whole lot easier.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

You can get a suction gun (big metal syringe) at Horrid Fate for $12.
This can work for both emptying and filling a diff.

But I'll say that Valvoline (and Amsoil) now offer gear lube in a bag with a long(ish) spout.
This makes filling a whole lot easier.

I went out and got one today!  It worked fairly well.  I know some was left, but I got most of it, and then filled. It took nearly all of the spec--so, I got all of it but about .3 of the 2 quarts it requires. I will probably do another round of this after some time in order to clean the gunk out, unless, of course, I need to drop the front diff for some reason.  

Thank you for the advice.  Helpful!

I'm glad that worked out for you.  

I know my front axle doesn't get the attention it deserves because there is no easy drain.
(It did get fresh seals and oil in March when I had most of the front end replaced)

A little Update:

Today i began reprepping some of the areas I shot in the dead of heat that resulted in dryspray effect.  I thought it was technique, or possibly the heat, and/or in combo with the activator quickness.  

I sanded down some spots, and went lightly over the dryspray areas with a rather mild sand paper on the DA.  

The result?  heat was the issue.  Everything looks better with what I did today in the mild temps, but my technique revealed a few areas of drip, which means, sand and touch up tomorrow.

I am close to being done with the body.  After that, I am thinking of tackling the interior, and first the dash.  I have cracks that are not too bad, but enough that makes me want to fix it.  Buying a new dash is out of the question—I want to keep what I have and learn how to repair it.  I see @fuzzface2 has some knowledge of this in another forum, and there are several options, but it seems fleece and resin are the best options.  There's a lot of discussion on this at F Enthusiasts.  Others use bondo glass, and vinyl, but that takes a lot of skill, and I am not sure I like the look of the vinyl even when done correctly.  I am open to suggestions here.  

I only have a couple cracks, and the grill needs replaced.  Ideas anyone?

OH Gary!  I saw your (and Reamer) excellent speaker grill mock up and 3d print project.  I WANT one.  How to get? I checked Shapeways to no avail.  

Cool!  Literally!  Glad you are getting the paint sorted.

On the dash patch, you'll need to contact Reamer.

I took a few days off.  5 months of constant work on the truck without a break…let’s just say I needed down time.  

I have some things to touchup on the paint, which will likely happen this weekend.

I have some brackets to fashion for the exhaust—the only thing holding it up is a hanger at the glass pack.  The rest were cut.  I have no idea why.

I also have to start thinking about how/where I am going to fabricate wheel tubs for the bed.  There are none for our year truck sold.  One could buy aftermarket type tub, but it will not have the same contours.  So, that will need to be done, maybe hitting up a shop to see if they can English Wheel a pair for me (that is the correct definition yes?  English Wheel?)

I also need to start thinking about a reupholster of the 1987 style bench seat I have in the truck.  One option is to spend the 700 and buy a kit.  Another is to take it to a shop.  Anyone have experience with the kits?

Then, of course, there’s any mechanical issues, and the remaining freeze plugs will necessitate me taking it to a friend for service as I do not have the space or equipment to pull it off.  While there, maybe have him drop the pan, but I know I can do that part myself.

At any rate, here are some pics!

It looks great!  You are going to be so proud of it!  

But why are you needing wheel tubs?  I've forgotten.  But yes, an English wheel can be used to make them.

The inner bed tubs are pretty banged up--beyong pulling out the dents.  I painted, but was not happy to do it without replacing both.  So, I knew I would have to revisit this issue.  I need to cut them out and redo both tubs inside the bed.  

Oh, ok.  I'm not sure exactly what this is, but have you looked at this from Tabco?

Gary Lewis wrote

Oh, ok.  I'm not sure exactly what this is, but have you looked at this from Tabco?

Hi Gary,

Sorry for the late response.  Been traveling, and taking a break from things. I did some paint touch up with mixed success.  But, the truck looks fairly decent to me even though there are spots I am not satisfied with.  

But, I am going to need to get back to it.  This oil leak has me bothered.

I THINK that piece is for the inner (I know it says outer meaning I think, outside the bed) wheelhouse--that is, the wheel tub in the bed, has a panel under it--that is it covers from around the rear wheel to about half the the tub in the bed and is welded together.  I have one of those, complete with the holes in the pic.  

I got one because I thought I would need it, and ended up not needing it.  LMC calls it an inner wheel arch:  https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/bed-tailgate/fd-1980-86-styleside-bed-patch-panels

The piece is smaller than the wheel tub inside the bed, and has a tighter radius, because it is under the wheel tub--I think to give it support and protect the tub from rust.

I am not sure but am I correct that your link is the same?  

Gary Lewis wrote

Oh, ok.  I'm not sure exactly what this is, but have you looked at this from Tabco?

Here is something I have never seen from LMC--an inner bed SKIN, the complete panel it looks:  

https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/bed-tailgate/fd-1980-86-styleside-bed-panels

When I follow your links I get a popup asking for the year, model, make, etc of my truck - before it shows me anything.  I am not using the LMC catalog until they fix that, and I've explained that to LMC's Mr Ford, Keith Dickson.

So can you take a screen shot and post it so I can see what you are talking about.

Gary Lewis wrote

When I follow your links I get a popup asking for the year, model, make, etc of my truck - before it shows me anything.  I am not using the LMC catalog until they fix that, and I've explained that to LMC's Mr Ford, Keith Dickson.

So can you take a screen shot and post it so I can see what you are talking about.

Here ya go Gary....and yes, that is annoying.  Sometimes I want to browse for things and not have to put in a make and model.  Like, they have wheel tubs for Chevys....not Ford for our year.  Had to mess with their site to even find that out.

Anyway, PICS!

Yes, it is annoying - so much so I'll go elsewhere.

I think you are right that my link to Tabco is for the part that goes below the wheel tub, meaning the one you cannot see - at least not easily.

But I don't think the other piece is an inside panel.  I think your snag shows the full bedside and then a partial beside.

Been a while again.  Thought I would update.  

After an unexpected trip to Chicago, things are back on track.

I have been seriously contemplating the replacement of the rest of the freeze plugs on the block and, since that would require the jacking of the engine and the removal of the brackets, the replacement of the oil pan gasket.  It is a project to be sure—loosening the clutch linkage, the tranny mount bolts, and I am sure other things.

So, I spent a week trying to find a gasket—I wanted something other than cork—and I finally found a Milodon that works—they have it listed for a 351-C (Cleveland).  After doing a little sleuthing on my engine, I now understand why.  What do people use for RTV (if any) on the replace the oil pan gasket?

I also spent over a week trying to find my favorite freeze plugs from Sealed Power.  They have a nice “deep” 1 ½ cup (.375—which I would call mid-deep not deep), but it looks like they are out of business?  It took me TIME to find a replacement of the same specifications—I did through Mellin.  Finding the exact part number was a bit of a pain since they like to sell in kits mostly.  Those arrived early this week.

Finally, I spent a couple of days at the local pick—I found an 87 Ford with a tail pipe still intact—it is amazing that one of the first things taken at a pick is the tail pipes—hard to find. It worked ok, and was about a ¼" smaller than I wanted, but, it really quieted down the cab installing it as previously, the exhaust ended just beyond the cab after the glass pack.

Now for the real work:  I noticed periodically a small knock and located it near the power steering.  I also noticed that whoever had the truck cut the oil cooler line what winds under the engine, etc. and replaced a good portion with hose.  You have GOT to be kidding me!  Why?! (pics below).  It also seemed to leak.  The hoses were hard. A bolt was also loose on the pump bracket behind the pulley, and the pulley looked warped a little.  SO, Back to the pick for a cooler line and pulley—I found them both on an 86 Bronco.  Ordered a new pump just to make it all a new system.  Adding a filter.

So, now the return line is mostly metal tube, except for the hose with filter that clamps to the pump.  Pump goes on tomorrow.

Old pump was a bear to pull the pully.  It looks like the old pump has a broken bolt inside the shaft from the install of the pulley, and likely hence why it was warped.  Oy. Glad I opted to change out the entire pump.

Lastly, our pooch decided to “help” change the PS line today.  

I am a little worried about the pulley off the Bronco—the one I pulled was off my truck concave more on the pump side (that is offset and deeper)—the bronco pulley is definitely not.  I cannot use the old one for reasons stated.  So, I hope the one I have off the 86 Bronco lines up.  It is in great shape.

AmericanSavage wrote

THAT'S what we call a helper!

Looks like you are making good progress.

On the pan gasket, RTV makes things slick, so I wouldn’t torque the pan down until the next day if I used it. Snug it up finger tight to squeeze out the excess, then let it set up before tightening. But I don’t know that I’m picky about brands.

As for the pulley, you are using a proper puller that clamps onto the knob and presses against the shaft, right?  Anything else will warp the pulley. But the one off the Bronco should line up.

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks like you are making good progress.

On the pan gasket, RTV makes things slick, so I wouldn’t torque the pan down until the next day if I used it. Snug it up finger tight to squeeze out the excess, then let it set up before tightening. But I don’t know that I’m picky about brands.

As for the pulley, you are using a proper puller that clamps onto the knob and presses against the shaft, right?  Anything else will warp the pulley. But the one off the Bronco should line up.

Oh yes, I have the proper puller that clamps onto the knob.  Same tool is used for pressing the pulley back.  

What brand do you use?  (not sure I understand that sentence right—you have a specific brand of RTV you use?)

Thanks Gary!  Cheers!

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks like you are making good progress.

On the pan gasket, RTV makes things slick, so I wouldn’t torque the pan down until the next day if I used it. Snug it up finger tight to squeeze out the excess, then let it set up before tightening. But I don’t know that I’m picky about brands.

As for the pulley, you are using a proper puller that clamps onto the knob and presses against the shaft, right?  Anything else will warp the pulley. But the one off the Bronco should line up.

Oh yes, I have the proper puller that clamps onto the knob.  Same tool is used for pressing the pulley back.  

What brand do you use?  (not sure I understand that sentence right—you have a specific brand of RTV you use?)

Thanks Gary!  Cheers!

I use whatever brand I have available.