Diary of a Restore (Thread)

Hey Gary,

Yes, when I took off the doors, the springs were on the upper of each side.  I appreciate all your efforts!

I broke down and went for the sure thing, and, ordered a new pass side upper spring hinge complete.  I figured I could putz around and order an s-spring by chance.  But, in the likelihood it would not work, that would put me back a couple weeks.  So, I will keep the original, and see what I can find out.  If I find an S-spring that works, I will let you all know.  And I will have a spare hinge too.

I think that's a good plan.  

Bit of an update:

Spent the last few days combatting....heat.  I noticed that if you look at my paint job on the line you can see in some places what is called "dry spray."  This happens due to 2 things--1) technique (definitely this could all be my lack of skill), and/or 2) the activator is too fast for the temp.   It could also be other things like too much air pressure at the gun, the fan, etc.

Anyway, a trip this morning to my paint guys.  Got the VERY SLOW activator.  After I get some things done on the truck I will be recovering some panel parts.  I mean, it does not look bad, but it is bad enough I do not like it.  And while I am not shooting for concourse, I do have my limits.

Tomorrow the glass guys come to install the windshield.  $350 and they are coming to me.  I figured, book em Dan-o for the price.

Speaking of glass:  I installed the rear slider 2 days ago.  It was easy, but there is a problem, as you can see from the pic below.  So, when I bought the truck it came with a new CR Laurence and a gasket (from LMC).  I do not know about you, but LMC sells a rear window gasket for this year and it is made on a straight line, and butt glued together.  This presents a mathematical problem for all gasket not form fitted--the radius.

EVERY gasket I have seen from LMC suffer from this problem it seems.  Further, it seems a bit bush to recommend the same gasket for a single glass or slider window.  As the gasket is fitted to the window, the corners "shrink" the outer gasket material because it has to stretch to cover the radius.  As you can see, I am ½" short on the pass, and an 1/8 short on the D side.  The interior fits great.  But, I cannot live with the bottom outer corners this way, and the tops too are not fully covering.  I find it unacceptable because, I had to repair a lot of rust around this opening.

So, I poked around the Laurence site, and found what they recommend.  They state unequivocally, that their gasket is NOT for a single glass back window. I got it--$27 before shipping.  We shall see if this fits any better.  I am not optimistic especially if it suffers from the same manufacturing issue.  

Finally, I did some tailgate detailing.  Red Ford decals went on pretty well I'd say.  And the 4x4 emblem was a nice touch.  Yes, I covered the holes, and am not quite happy with it, but, it is temporary.  I just did not want to bond over the holes in case I find a panel (I know, a big wish).

Cheers!

Bummer on the gasket!  That is a big problem.  Let's see how the Laurence gasket fits.

But the tailgate looks great!  

Gary,

I just want to send a note that I appreciate all your encouragement!  Cheers!

You are welcome. I certainly appreciate the support I get and want to pass it on.

The gate looks good, I like the red with the white?
On the 4x4 I think they are on the lower part of the gate no?
I know the 4x4 are not on ours, at least I dont think so but on what they do come on it is lower.

On the gasket I reused one that came with 1 of the trucks, cant remember what truck now.
Maybe the parts truck as I used its flat glass?
After cleaning with soap & water it was in pretty good shape so it was used.
The slider my truck had bad seals and rattled just moving it so I went with flat glass that came in the parts truck.

That glass almost was not.
When I went to pick up the truck the rear glass was hanging half out, how it did not pop out all the way or break I dont know. So before moving the truck I puled it out and set it on the floor of the Uhaul truck I had to use to pull my car trailer.

I also have a new rear glass seal that came with my weather seal kit.
The plan was to get a new slider and use the seal but dont think I will do the slider now.
Dave ----

I agree. that gasket does not fit! once again, nothing fits like the originals. i hope to hear good news about the next gasket you try as a good source is important. a gasket cannot do such a critical job with gaps like that.

Hey Dave,

On the 4x4:  There were two small holes on the upper part of the gate.  I assumed that could be something like a dealer emblem.  Looking around LMC, I saw in their emblem section a 4x4 made specifically for “tailgate.”  I called because I was not sure it would be like other emblems and have the guide posts.  They were unhelpful saying that it was only “stick on.”  

I took a risk and bought it.  When it arrived, it lined up perfect with those two holes as it had the posts.  So, I assumed it went there.  I see no other place it could go, unless there is something on the alum. back panel.  But every one I have seen says XLT on the lower pass corner, unless I have missed soemthing. Those 1980 gate panels are a rarity.

I bought the F-O-R-D decals when I thought of the original color scheme.  If I would have gone wiht the 2k original color, I would have chosen white.  I MAY pin stripe with burgundy now in the “type 2” that Gary has noted in the stripe section—would make it closer to what Ford did, but maybe not on this truck.  Wife is against it.  She likes it clean.  I am unsure.

On the Window:  I still have my back glass original.  I may revert to it if this new gasket does not work, which means, buying another gasket.  I just cannot do this half *ssed.  Too much work put into cleaning up the rust.  But since I am non-ac I really want the slider.  And it is a nice slider.

First, let’s start off with the good news:  The glass is in.  I was so busy with the bodywork I had forgotten to check out the molding around the windshield.  I had the original I pulled off, and looking at it, it was, let’s say, spent.  If I knew if it could be “rechromed” I would do it.

However, 2 months ago, I was searching at local Pick-Pull for something and came across a 1986 150.  Molding looked great, and since I see at LMC a full set is $650!!!!!! I decided to snag it. $20.

So, while the guys were prepping the window and installing the new clips (what a pain I had no idea it was that difficult!) I polished that I took at the Pick-Pull.  Looks much better than original.  Question:  My set is structurally great, but since these are aluminum (I think?) how can one send them off for resurfacing in chrome like finish?  Would a Chrome shop work?  I know of a great one in FL.

Anyway, now the problem news:  after they left, I worked on getting the new wipers on…and when I fired up the truck, my wipers went batty.  My washer pump also did not work.  The wipers would not turn off/park.  The “off” position seemed like intermittent.  The motor is “new” so, I figured it had to be the switch.  I checked Gary’s place on this issue of wipers.  Upon looking at the schematic, that wire which disconnected itself from the plug is for the washer—blck/white!  

This morning I crawled under the dash…I saw an intermittent module (I did not know was in the truck—I figured it was all non intermitent always).  The module was completely unplugged.  It was mounted to the dash over the hood release, so I bet the park brake bang at some point damaged it and the previous owners just cut it out of the system.  I found the snipped ground wire from the original intermittent switch they left on the bolt.

I then went about removing the switch, and when I did, the switch disintegrated.  BUT, on the plug I notice one wire was loose and out of the plug.  I think that is the washer wire, but could it effect the park function?  Gary’s schematic in the wiper sections suggests NYET!  Pics below.  

I do have a question:  The plug under the dash has 6 terminals.  The non int switch has 6 terminals.  

The module plug (the non red one) that goes to that plug has 7 terminals.  What is this extra terminal?  I know I have missed something here.

OK, another problem to be solved.  I have order both a new int relay module and a new int switch.  Dash is apart again

Waiting on Back glass gasket, door hinge, and now wipers.  The road goes on forever, and the party never ends.

I'm pretty sure from memory that the wire is to the pump. the park portion of the circuit is in the motor by means of an eccentric cam contact until the arm reaches the spot where the contacts get released. I hope I explained that well. just a tip to any and all doing a windshield. have all trim ready and new clips too if needed. let the glass co. do it from start to finish! don't void their warranty!!!

Hey Mat in TN,

I have no doubt the reason my washer did not work was because of this detached wire.  The non park function has me a little concerned.  I never take for granted new = no problem here.  Yet the switch did fall apart on me, so, I figured, I am going to replace the switch, and since I found the unused int. delay, I opted for total replace.  If this does not work, then the new motor gets sent back.  I have the old motor, but it whines loudly and is original near as I can tell.

On Gary’s excellent wiper page, he mentions that one should not bolt the int relay unit to the dash because the fragile nature of the interior relay/delay.  The park brake shakes the entire dash when released if not impeded.  I bet this is how it failed and some owner before said to heck with it, and went cheap non-int.  

Gary rec. that this unit be zip tied in suspension to something else under the dash to minimize shock.  This is wise advice and one I will follow.  

There are two places I see that sell the int relay device—Bronco graveyard—a great place to get the emblem barrel nuts, btw—and Dennis Carpenter.  DC is near me.  So I ordered from them.

the example has been used more than once "peeling the onion" meaning many layers of problems to verify on restoration of old trucks. brand makes no difference!
one point I make often is to fix what you know is broken first and sometimes that is the end of it. sometimes it just moves you on to the next link in the chain.
I deal with people who want to decide what the problem is all too often, and it just adds to the frustration. back to basics every time. when dealing with electrics, get a simple test light and verify a good known ground for it then verify each component or connection from the non-working device on back to where you find 12v again. slow and methodical and it gets easier each time. a spare marker light and wire connector and you now have a test light.
ps. don't use the factory ground of the same device you are diagnosing. if you have a bad ground then your test may not be good. run a wire all the way to battery neg if need be. this also helps find a bad ground of that device at the same time.  

When my washer did not work I found the wire had power when you it should work and the pump would work if jumped to power so it had a bad connection wire at the pump.

I went to use the pump the other day  and it did not work  but have not looked into why yet.
Dave ----

While I am waiting for wiper parts to arrive, I received the gasket from DK Hardware.  The part number is WBL 1158.  It is a PRECISION gasket for the back window, which I did not know from the Laurence website which manufactured my slider.  They recommend this gasket with their sliders for this year truck.

So, when it arrived, it was package by Precision.  It is their gasket.  They list it for over $100.  I got it for $27.

This gasket looked better and more robust.  The outer seal looked about ½” wider than the LMC.  I was hopeful.

The LMC gasket went in the truck easy.  This one did NOT, which means it was meant for the truck I suppose.  It took more open hand hitting to seat it from the outside to inside.  Each time it “popped” in a little more and the corners molded on the outside to the radius.  The soapy water helped.

At any rate, MOLTO BENE! Pics can tell the rest of the story.

As an aside, LMC sent me the wrong vent window gaskets and I am waiting to hear from them when they will send new ones, if they do at all—quality control or some such is looking into it.  Otherwise, the doors would be hung.  More waiting.

Thanks for sharing that.  I'd read that many people have had that problem, so it is really good to know that there is a good gasket for the sliders.  

very good to hear. much better fit and it seems precision is the name to remember

That looks nice!

I dreaded hanging the doors.  Will post more extensively on this in a day or so.  However, the hoist was a saver of a lot of time.  Easy on easy off.  The door stayed near for quick attachment and check on realignment.  Cannot rec. this method enough.  Saved a ton of headaches.

Cool!  

But why didn't I think of that?