grumpin

Nice!

Welcome!

Gary, I wanted to mention here, as I’m sure I posted here about using an adapter to have an aftermarket temperature gauge and the factory sensor also. I felt then that it worked fine, but after time I realized it has some quirks. Both gauges slow to come up and occasionally the aftermarket gauge wouldn’t come up for awhile or until I shut it off to go into a store and came back out it would show or show right after I started it. Then for giggles one day the aftermarket gauge wasn’t coming up so I put it in neutral and revved the engine and it came up. Thinking that was a fluke tried it again and it worked. Did that numerous times. So when I was flushing the coolant system I took the adapter out and am now using only the aftermarket gauge. Comes up every time so far and seems more responsive. So, I’m changing my opinion on that.

Nice! Funny thing is I'll be out that way in TN the week after next- literally one or two towns over (Jackson, TN, and Henderson, TN), but it will be for work with a shared van. With my ex-boss no less... . I once rehomed a car on a company trip and that was a HUGE mistake. Lucky I didn't get fired by said former boss... he was fuming. . My career (as an automotive manufacturing engineer) is worth more than $25 in shipping. Anyway... surprisingly, my wife is OK with this... the center caps have some dents, but I can transfer the undented ones of my existing hubcaps (just some folded metal tabs, easy enough?. Deal. Bought. Would it be a good idea to try to clearcoat these or something to prevent flaking? Or should I pull my hubcaps the next time I go to the automatic carwash? Or maybe skip those... I was trying to get all the winter salt off, and clear some nasty black junk off the hood that's been there since I bought it (never been to the car wash due to the bad door seals in the other thread). My mirrors ripped a couple fingers off one of the brushes, so I really dunno... This isn't exactly a candidate for a fine clay bar & wax treatment. --- Figured out why the dog dishes didn't look right in my head (and why the plastic ones do). The Aluminum side trim matches the trim on the plastic hubcaps. Part of the same exterior trim options? If I had a plain body (no trim, one color), then dog dishes would look probably look right and likely would have been what came on such. On a side note, I have relatives in Henderson TN. My aunt worked for Buford Pusser.

Ok, I saw that smaller GM system the other day as I was looking into a 1992 S10. And then wondered if GM put that Vortec 4.3 in the 1996 and later S10’s. Which they did. That ought to be a nice little pick up. If I did go HEI I figured I’d use a continuous duty solenoid to power it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ss608?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwu5CDBhB9EiwA0w6sLTnieJUaUiMqBI2_22p_uqUjJLWlEYghOeBRovlI8uQa8zr4IaqsKhoCz1IQAvD_BwE As I said I’m really hoping this stator works because I like the Duraspark II. I did go ahead and drive it this evening. Running real good. Got my drill press! Edit: one other thing I’m concerned about is the size of an HEI, I will be using my stock air cleaner.

Up here that "coating" is passive rust prevention! Ha! That’s what I was thinking!

Good eye Jim! I forgot that I started taking pictures after I razored it some. So no, it wasn’t that chewed up. One wire broken, the other hanging on by a few strands, and some corrosion. I’m going to go ahead and drive it. I’m picking up a drill press tonight at the right price, free!

Nice!

Here’s the culprit after I pulled it. The wire is exposed at the dizzy entrance, note the tie wrap to mark the wire for reinstallation. After I razor bladed into it. Cleaned and ready for soldering. Still have to prep the connector wires. A good reading! It’s in and running good. Hoping the new one from FPG is good. I don’t completely trust this repair. Done more for what’s left of my sanity!

Welcome!

Ah yes, now I remember. What do you Bill and others think of a replacement dizzy? Thinking Pertronix with one of their coils. Or an HEI just to have an all in one.

That’s why I think of this as a heads up if the parts aren’t right. And I could be wrong but can’t figure out where. Read through the installation again in the factory manual, nothing I missed there. Bill, if Darth’s is long gone what did you put in there? I see where you added that Gary. Interesting on the minimum gap, as there is no way to adjust it. Jim, yes Duraspark II, didn’t think of clarifying that.

Yes, checked for TDC on number one on the compression stroke. Damper is good. I must not have been clear, I don’t think that all three are bad I think they’re made to a different specification. Or a wrong specification. I’m assuming they are made for EEC engines. But I just looked at my EVTM and that doesn’t make sense. Not sure on the advance or high idle either. I’m guessing when it’s going faster it’s picking up something. Tomorrow I’m going to try to dig into my old one and see if I can clean it up and solder the wires back together. And put it back in. Then if the one from Ford checks good I’ll put it in.

https://bend.craigslist.org/cto/d/powell-butte-1986-ford-f250-4x4-diesel/7299415982.html

Those look nice!

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Nor mine either, but interesting...

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Yes the pickup. Here, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHMP700?impressionRank=2&searchCategory=c1.s1&searchIndex=Universal Shaft seems fine, no gap to set it is held on the shaft by a ring, moved by the vacuum advance. As I said I can make it run with a lot of advance or turning up the idle speed. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/1986-bronco-f150-350-evtmjpg-page28-wrong_orig.jpg There should be 400 to 1200 ohms on O/Y and P/LB. I get that on my original with the broken wire. I do not get anything on the parts store ones.

I like steelies!

Thanks Gary! That’s how I found the one at Ford Parts Giant. And of course the part number here on your site. It frustrates me as I use this truck and I’m going to need it in the future. Fortunately I have time to fix it. I think it says a lot for this ignition system, because I’m sure the stator and coil were OEM. And if I have to I’ll find another aftermarket distributor.

I was cleaning and flushing my coolant system and had drove the truck for around 2 1/2 hours , did a rinse then serviced it with coolant. All looked good, so I was going to run some errands and left the truck running to go in the house and get some stuff. As I started up the stairs the truck died. Go try to start it and no go. I wasn’t getting consistent readings on the coil and I’ve had coils go bad before so I went and got one. Wasn’t it. Started checking things with the Haynes manual, could find any in the Ford manuals and it referred me to the Emissions and Diagnostic manual which I don’t have. And the Haynes is good in this situation. At the four wire connector I had no resistance in the stator assembly. Pulled the distributor cap and there it is, a broken wire on the stator. Go to NAPA and get a stator. Couldn’t get it to run right. Finally seemed to be running ok, but wouldn’t start because the timing was too advanced. Ok, called it a day. Next day, I’m thinking the distributor has to be off a tooth. After a few attempts, same thing. Got it to run with the idle way up. So, I thought something else is wrong too. Started the checks again. Everything checks good. Get to the stator and no resistance, no continuity. Wow! Bad part. Go back to NAPA and they had the next down from Echlin. Took it home and no resistance. Take it back and take my meter. Go to the Zone and they have one I try at the counter, same thing. I’m assuming these are made for EEC systems that have a way to trigger it. Checked my original, which I believe is the one put on at the factory, and I’ve got around 800 ohms, should be 400 to 1200. Found the part number here and found one on Ford Parts Giant. Thought I’d go to our local dealer and she said it was discontinued, after I gave her the part number. Ordered the one from Parts Giant. Hopefully it’s within specs. Or I may have to put in a different distributor. A Pertronix, MSD or (shudder) an HEI. So a warning, this part may not be available or properly speced for a non EEC engine. Thinking about tearing into my old stator to see if I can make it work.

https://bend.craigslist.org/cto/d/redmond-1985-ford-bronco-4x4/7299098662.html

Welcome!