FuzzFace2

I thought the Firestone's 721 & 500 tires had issues back in the day and why I would never run Firestones. BTW I have a space saver spare with the inflate can, yes you had to blow it up to use it, in my 75 AMC Gremlin, think they are worth more than the car Dave ----

I would also drive around and see what cars & trucks are on the shop lots. If they have some older ones and look to have some "upgrades" it might be worth a stop in to chat. I have 1 garage I would not think twice to take my truck to if I did not do the work myself. They do the state inspections on our other 2 cars, my truck dose not need to have it done. They did tires and mounted on the wife's car. They did new tires for the truck but I mounted them then took the truck back to check the caster / camber / toe and when I asked a question on how to adjust they gave the right answer. They have also had older cars & truck on the lot to be fixed. They also have older "hot rods" that they built, really cool guys. Oh today on the way home there was a 65 - 67 Chevy Biscane with a BIGBLOCK (on the plate) on the lot Dave ----

That seems a bit uncalled for. I am only comparing the power and fuel economy numbers of a properly tuned and matched carburetor with a properly functioning EFI system. All other things being equal, there simply isn't that much difference. I agree with you in that modern engines do tend to burn a bit cleaner. But that has less to do with EFI and more to do with better heads, camshafts, catalytic converters, etc. Even so, EFI is still going to be a bit cleaner for our environment because it can constantly self-tune. That not only helps modern engines to last longer, but it also helps to keep our air cleaner if (and when) a problem arises, and every little bit helps. That being said, no one ever says they want a fuel injection system for "better emissions." Instead, I often hear things like "better cold starts" and "better performance" or "better economy" as reasons why from the companies who market them as well as the people who purchase them. Those are simply not valid reasons to replace a carburetor with a fuel injection system. The truth is, if you replace your carburetor with an EFI system and you get "better cold starts" and "better performance" or a big increase in fuel economy, then something was not right with your carburetor. Perhaps I misrepresented myself in this discussion. I do understand why carburetors were replaced with EFI. I do not think a carburetor is "superior" over EFI. I have two other newer vehicles with EFI, and I would absolutely not replace either of them with a carburetor. EFI takes all the fun of driving a car / truck with a carb from starting it when cold and needing to find what it takes to start. Do you pump 1, 1.5 or 2 times? Hold it a little bit or half way down after the pump? Also going from carb to EFI for a few more MPG how long would it take for pay back? Don't get me wrong I like EFI on the car & truck I have but they came with EFI. Dave ----

Thanks Bill I should have said that Dave ----

Now that I get thinking about it the PS pump you are after that I have might only be on the vans because I think the PUs only use the wrong pump LOL I also don't know if the vans that used the serp belt had the PS pump you are after or the wrong one? I was told my brackets & pump was from a van think 83 or 85 and if you have AC see if you can get the AC brackets that work with the pump. The pump & brackets came on my truck and I am thinking the motor was from a van but not sure? I just wanted to let you know if looking for the PS pump and can only find a full serp setup then go that way but did not want you to be limited to just the serp setup as I am not using one on my truck. Maybe I am just thinking out loud? Dave ----

I don't remember who it was or the thread it was in but someone asked where does the add on AC wiring harness plug in to the main harness? It is that gray plug in the center. you unplug it and 1 side of that plug goes into 1 side of the AC harness, the other side of both do the same. Sorry it took so long to post this up should have posted or sent a PM as a reminder. Dave ----

If that is the case then FDM would be the way to go I am not up on this new fancy stuff on out old truck Dave ----

On the belt setup you need everything from a 300 six that used that system. IIRC the EFI trucks used that system so IIRC 87 to the end like mid 90's. Now I think it was the vans that used the PS pump you want to use don't know if the later PU used it or not? Now just because the 3G has a serp belt pulley it is an easy swap to V belt. Pull the serp pulley off add a flat washer and install the V belt pulley and done. As for the PS pump the vans used that pump with V belt so think 80 - 86 is what you would be looking for. In the picture the PS pump is using the outer most groove on the crank, that is where the AC belt needed to be and does not go over the water pump like it needs on an AC truck. So I had to space the PS pump back to use the center groove on the crank pulley when I installed the AC compressor and change out the water pump pulley to have 3 same dia. grooves for the 3 belts. Dave ----

That is why I said unless he stayed EFI as it would be harder to do the dual tanks mod. If he went with the 300 I don't think he would be able to run the FDM as the psi would be to high for the carb. I am sure Cory has a good plan LOL Dave ----

That does look like it was for a flare side. If you look in the for sale area there is a flare side listed that also has a step bumper but is for a a style side as it sticks out far on both sides. Thanks for the picture. Dave ----

Yes, side tank in shortbeds is 16 gallon. Yes, I might do a Dave in reverse...lol. Why not do the "full Dave"? Then again I don't know if you have a 16 gallon front tank to use at this time? The only thing that may be why not do the "full Dave" is if you stay with the EFI and the needed tank switch valve. With the carbed 300 six you could use the cheaper 3 port valve to switch between tanks. I got to say the best mod I did has to be the dual tanks on my flare side. And to go 1 step more go "fuller Dave" and do the metal floor What trans would you be using with either the EFI v8 or the carb 300 six? I would like to know how a M5OD would work with the 300 for a street truck. Dave ----

That would be the only place I can think of that water cant drain from even from the factory. As said the back side of rockers are open. Dave ----

What year truck was that for? If for the 80 - 86 trucks check to see what the 87 - 90 takes. Tell them to order in 3 and check what type it is and I bet you will only find the later type that will also need to be spaced out. As was said they used the same part number for all of them so you cant tell by the part number. Good luck Dave ----

And with EFI and no cat I cant see taking it over 2500 RPM and most of the time I shift at or below 2000 RPM The 300 six pulls at a low RPM so I don't see the need to run it out all that high. Dave ----

. Is that for a straight six or v8's and they in cars or trucks shaped like a brick? What other work was done at that time? Like on my truck I added the over drive but I also got the AC working so I cant see the MPG going up all that much if at all till I can drive the truck with out the over drive. I think that makes a big difference that they only to the EFI upgrade and nothing else. I don't have FB so I cant check it out. Dave ----

He mentions getting 11MPG... Don't you get 20+MPG David? For that money I'd rather stick with my Edelbrock even if I never manage to get it above 10MPG! Or go back to my old cut-up 'limp home mode' original setup that got 15+MPG. It drove like a dog though, so maybe not. His description of the driving experience does sound nice... So I guess if money isn't an issue, the Sniper system could be the way to go. Right now I am only getting mid 14's MPG, that is before the over drive but I also added AC. My 02 Durango 5.9 EFI motor, auto OD, 3.92 gear with AC on just pulled a 16 MPG even most of the time mid 15's. So if I can get 15 to 16 with my carbed six it would make me happier but I enjoy driving the pick up. Dave ----

Also know he has a built up 300 so I don't know if that would make a difference on the EFI and how it will work. The 83 would be a feed back system right? If so then just a carb & dist. change is all it would take to remove most of the vacuum lines and the feed back wiring. Now you would be looking at a new tank & sender with either carb or EFI. I would look into a sender that would work with your gauge and have a return on it so if you want to go EFI the tank has one. I know some tanks use a low psi lift pump in the tank that then feeds a high psi pump on the frame rail. I don't know if the low psi pump only would work with a carb with out a regulator or not? But that may be a way to go on the tank / sender. I have seen it posted some feed back carbs work with out the feed back computer and others that don't? I would look in to a non-feed back carb to replace the one you have unless you are going with EFI off the bat. Then all you have to deal with would be the feed back dist. If going with EFI what ever non-feed back dist. you go with just make sure it will work with it. No need to buy 2 dist. because you did not check first. Because I am cheap and lazy I look for the cheap & easy way to get to the end. (most of the time ) I don't see anything wrong with the stock non-feed back 1v carb and DSII dist. in my 81 F100, it starts & runs good all the time. Just my .02 Dave ----

What this old garbage truck as it has been called I will have to come up with a story on it. Dave ----

We have had worst thunder storms than this one. We got some rain on & off and some what heavy at times but we were lucky. Out at the coast looks like they had it a little worst with flooding and wind. Dave ----

Well I cant say I am the only one as I had seen it done on 1 or 2 others. Think 1 of our members had a rear tank on his black flare side before he sold it? Yes dual tanks as the front / mid / side 16 gallon tank is just not large enough so added the 19 gallon rear tank. All the parts, other than the door and some of the filler, came from a dual tank style side parts truck even the dash & wiring. The factory tank switch is to the right of the HVAC controls. Dave ----

I wonder how well that bumper would polish up? Some of those scratches might come out. I don't really have any idea what these bumpers are worth, but I do see people looking for them every now and then. I'm pretty sure that I did see them in the LMC catalog the other day, in both chrome and primered. After not being able to find any one to "chrome wrap" my bumpers I painted them silver and clear and happy the way they turned out. Then again mine are not factory stock just look the parts. Dave ----

There was a post of someone looking for a flare side rear bumper and it gave the same years and I said the same thing 80 - 86 only but saw the add and them was like Dave ----

Not if you pull the whole dash out Dave ----

It does not say what year trucks that bumper fits. The 80 - 86 bumpers are different than the <79 bumpers. I am told the bumper bracket holes are in a different location between them. There is only 1 place I know of that sells a bumper for our trucks. https://www.a2zvehicleparts.com/Rear-Bumper-Flareside-USA-Chrome-1973-1987-Ford-Truck_p_709.html Well they say it does go back before our years???? Now that brings us to the brackets, do you have them and I don't mean the ones on your bumper now as they may not work. But don't worry a member on here makes them. IIRC you just need to drill the holes for the bumper bolts to go thru. Would like to see a picture of this bumper you have on the truck now. My brother in on the west coast said the truck he pulled parts off to send me had a step bumper but it was not for a full size style side truck as it did not stick out far past the box. Dave ----

Well there you go you now know where you have to look deeper into for a fix. Dave ----