FuzzFace2

And what do you do if you have a non-AC truck that don't have them metal plates as that is were the air comes in to vent the cab? Yes I did have water come in when driving the truck during a heavy rain. It was before I had working AC and had to have the vents open, windows cracked and defrost on to clear the windshield. Dave ----

Wife wanted to go out for dinner so I made her work for it While I drove and yelled out numbers she wrote them down, here goes. Speed Direct OD 40 1300 1100 45 1500 1200 50 1700 1300 55 1800 1400 60 2100 1600 65 2250 1700 70 2500 1800 75 2700 2000 80 3000 2200 I don't know why the 1800 in direct or the same RPM for 50 & 55 MPH? I have 1 tanks full running at 65 MPH like I did with out overdrive but now have AC that has been running non-stop. Anyway I only pulled 14.8 MPG, I was getting high 14's to mid 15's before the overdrive. Dave ---- edit: to make change to the RPM's that were not right 8-24-202

Where I got my "charge" (auto zone) I only saw what they had all had oil with ICE32. I did see some with & without die and stop leak, did not use either one. I was thinking that stop leak had to be like the cooling system stop leak - it clogs everything! Dave ----

I had the same issue with that line also not fitting. I got my hoses from Auto Zone on line and they were dropped shipped to me also. I returned the hose, dryer and belt as they did not fit (see below). What year is your truck? What compressor did it come with from the factory? Mine is an 1981 and came with a York compressor. I am pretty sure the line I ordered was for an 1984 as I needed the 2 hoses to fit a Sanden compressor of that year. I also know the later year evap has different fittings for the dryer as the 84 dryer would not fit my 81 evap. I was lucky that the 2 compressor hoses (for 84 truck) fit to condenser & dryer or I would of had to get ones made. Hope that helps a little Dave ----

Man between the shunt and bypassing it and finding the right "bolt in" ALT is why I would think of staying with the 1G ALT I have if it ever gives out. I know some place I do have a list of the parts needed to do this swap on my truck just don't remember where it is right now. Dave ----

X2 Because my system had some new parts, condenser, hoses, dryer and I flushed the evap I added a little bit of oil to each new & flushed part. I also added oil to my compressor as per the junk yard or if it went belly up they would not replace it. I also don't think you can buy charge with out the oil in it? Or I don't remember seeing any with out oil charge in it. I did see some charge that had a sealer in it also, I stayed away from that. Dave ----

I don't think so. My junk yard compressor already had them on so I left them. I also made sure they were on the compressor as I did not have any to put on a new compressor and the ones I found on Ebay months back were $100 each! Dave ----

I get to work 99% of the time when it is still dark out so no way I would forget the head lights were left on. I only had a buzzer work once, think it was the seatbelt? and thought it was cool but have not heard it since then I don't plan on pulling the dash apart on my truck just to install buzzers and I would need to track some down to start with. Dave ----

I have also used their panels after I was told of them on here. Yes the fit and thickness was spot on. When I placed my order, floors, cab corners, rockers, lower inner & outer left door and weather strip lips. I had some panels that over lapped by a lot they said as they called me to tell me so and to save some money told me what I did not need. They also sent a flat sheet to use as a filler if needed. How many companies would call to tell you not to spend money! They are at the top of my list for buying body panels. Hope they have the panels I need for my 70 AMC Javelin when I am ready. Dave ----

So others know what we are talking of "duck bills" here you can see it just in front of the lower door hinge. I left mine in place as I don't park my truck under anything. It is either in the house garage (most of the time), my garage and if I take it to work parked in an open parking lot. Also not a lot of trees to drop crap on the truck when on the high way. Dave ----

I would say before you take it back in on Monday check that the 4 wheel drive works, mainly the transfer case goes in & out of 4x4. Hate to have you find out in a few months when the snow is coming down and 4x4 don't work and cant take it back because of time passed. Dave ----

Let me first say my 81 F100 truck uses a 3 port valve. When you look it up at the 3 different auto parts stores they only listed the 6 port and I did not want to go that route unless I had to. :nabble_smiley_blush:Now I just went out to check and had no clicking of the valve so pulled out the test light and no power on the wire? So pulled the fuse cover and started checking and yep found the AXU fuel fuse blown. Now I do have to say I caused this when I did the wire pull but it was really before that. I spliced on the plug that came with the valve and I used liquid tape to cover the splice. Well it was too thin and I tucked the wire under the valve when pulling wires and it shorted out on the frame. I added a lot more liquid tape and it will never short out there again. I could hear the valve switch so the new valve coming will go into stock I should have check it out first before jumping, I blame it on my work hours. up at 2am, 12am, 2am, 12am with 5 hours sleep before getting up and no dinner before bed, but we are good now and have a new part for stock. Dave ----

It was a Standard FV1 or FV1T NIB I installed just before it went on the road as I also did not have any fuel in the tanks as I did not know how long before it would be on the road. Now you could be right on the trigger wire as I did pull wires to the rear for the3 trailer brakes & power. I will have to get under and check but I ordered one off Amazon for under $30 just in case. All the parts stores list the 6 port valve for $95 - $130 and I would also need to get the pig tail to wire it to my truck. Think it was Ebay listed a 6 port as a 3 port and had caps on the unused ports for $90. And we know what happens to old caps and I would still need the pig tail. Its a good thing I seen this now because I would have kept driving till I ran out of gas and flipped the switch only to see the rear tank was empty! That is how I kind of found it was pulling from the rear tank, it was at a 1/4. Dave ----

Well I have 210 miles on my 16 gallon tank and it has only used a 1/4 tank? I was thinking it should have ran out of gas or been close to it so on a whim I switched to the rear tank and it showed 1/4 tank?? Then it hit me the tank switching valve defaults to the rear tank and I have been running off the rear tank most of this time. The valve is not even a year old and already gone belly up Going to find another 3 port valve and hope it will last longer. Dave ----

I went a bit overkill on it, but really I did it for reliability. The bottom end and heads are studded and has ARP rod bolts. I put Cometic MLS head gaskets on it, King A's and Clevite 77 bearings, did a roller cam conversion using 302/351W roller parts etc. There is an awful lot of non-Ford parts in this thingy-mabob. Didn't want to go into this to spend $$$ and have it come apart. I wanted to do it once and not again for a while. You don't want to know what the bill is so far LOL. I didn't do a thing to the suspension except replace the front shocks and put a set of Lakewood traction bars on it with some 325/50/15 Nitto drag radial tires LOL. I'm taking the driveshaft to have it balanced and I get a set of Moog non-greasable universals. I wanted Spicer, but ordered locally and no one had them. The last real big things I need to do is call up the local Competition Transmission place and have my torque converter made and decide wether or not I want to buy a used/rebuild Winston cup locker for the rear end or put a brand new TrueTrac in it. Either way, there is no reason this truck shouldn't rip! Ditch that Lakewood bars and get https://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html They are easy to adjust when the track changes. Have you looked in to a Detroit Locker for the rear? I have run both in my drag Javelin, 4000 stall converter, 4.56 gear and 9" slicks and a junkyard 360 motor. Dave ----

My passenger door is the harder door to close and also sticks out a little and my weather seals have been installed since Nov. 2019! Being my truck is a driver and not a show truck so what if it sticks out just a little. Dave ----

Did the truck have a throttle up? A lot of them did because at idle and all the lights on, AC, etc. it would kill the batteries other wise. That is a real rats nest in there LOL Dave ----

I had a cover like that on my 86 K5 Diesel Blazer. I would install it when it got to 40*f or below as it helped heat up faster. Only time I would need to un-zip is if it got up to 60*f or if it was 40* and was pulling my trailer on the high way. Mine had snaps across the top and used small bungies on the bottom. I did have to cut the bottom corners for the turn / park lights. BTW diesels don't make any heat unless under power. I could of had it idling for hours with the cover and not get any heat to come out the heater and the stat was working. Dave ----

Mouse nest tea? You can steep that urine soaked wad of nesting material for a delicious and invigorating afternoon pick-me-up! Thank You Jim I am a tea drinker and you just turned me off to it :nabble_anim_handshake:JK Dave ----

On the six that big old cap is kind of down low in the hole so you don't really see it so I don't mine them on the six. Heck I had one on my Toyota L/C straight six. Came out of the Chevy 250 and dropped right in. There is also nothing for the vacuum advance can to hit when you go to adjust timing when in the six. But on the Ford v8's where it is up front just looks all kinds of wrong and the vacuum hits everything and can only get like 5* timing change. Yep not a fan of the HEI in a Ford v8. Dave ----

I had a feeling that carb was a feed back. Some have only changed out the dist. for the DSII one and been ok on the carb but I think most swap out both. Dave ----

Rust was not that bad on either truck and was really surprised when I did the "Full Dave". It also took a full 4 years for the "Full Dave" did not happen over night LOL Dave ----

Ok I was thinking you were trying to put the smoke thru the timed port. Now you can plug off the hose to the dist. and give it more smoke. Dave ----

LOL ok think we need to make sure what you are calling things. PCV is in the valve cover with a hose going to the base of the carb or a large port on the intake manifold. The hose on the dist. to nipple on the carb should be a timed port. If you removed the hose from the carb and blew the smoke in it this would have filled the vacuum advance can of the dist. and if smoke came out the dist. then the can leaks and needs to be replaced as Gary said below. Gary I think he still needs to fill the intake with smoke still. He could pull the PVC hose off the valve and blow the smoke into it to fill the intake track to check for vacuum leaks. Dave ----

Where were you blowing the smoke in? If the intake and you were getting smoke out the dist. and front of the motor you got something big going on that is not good in my book. Dave ----