FuzzFace2

Truck is going to stop really good with New Drums FL,FR New Rotors and pads FL, FR Sounds like a good plan on the brakes as I did the same thing to my truck as part of the rebuild. At first I used the booster & master from the parts truck, mine did not have power brakes. Once installed I found both bad and might have been the reason the parts truck was rolled on its roof? How are the Ebrake cables? At the wheels 1 of mine was broken and the other not hooked to anything so they were replaced. Front cables on both trucks were good so reused the best. Dave ----

IIRC the one pictured (flare side) is the large brakes with the 5 x 5.5 bolt pattern non-power brakes. My parts truck (long bed style side) had the smaller brakes and 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern power brakes. Both of my trucks are 1981 F100, same weight of 4700 GVWR, both 300 six, both 9" rears different ratios, and stick transmissions - parts a SROD mine a T18. I don't think I have seen shoes with linings that close in how long they are, most are like mine. Dave ----

It looks like you have part of the cert label, just need tire / wheel size & think weight. Dave ----

I think what Jim was hinting on is if the door used the cable they may not have the holes for the handle / rod type and / or the door may not be the same in that area to mount yours. It might be best to take you door panel off and take a picture or 3 and see if the sheet metal the parts mount to are the same, holes can be drilled for Dave ----

Yes a better filter is needed. Them pull-a-part to clean are only good to stop small birds and that's it. Also the glass part likes to break and you then have gas all over and maybe a fire! 1 Can you take a picture of the bowl vent but if you can put a cap on it you should be ok asthe bowl is vented to the air intake of the carb. 2 Picture of this choke also if you can. It sounds like the choke uses both electric and heat to work. My 300 six uses both to open the choke. The wire is not 12 volts but like 6 volts from the ALT "S" lug. 3 WAG that port is for the vacuum advance on the dist. at idle does it have vacuum or only when you give it a little throttle? Dave ----

I think with either factory or dealer AC one of the best up grades is the heater core shut off valve. Before I got the AC working I added this and was nice to put the control to vent (my case because of the year of the control AC MAX) and get cool air blowing out. Now when on MAX AC it gets pretty cold in the cab. I don't have much street driving before I hit the high way but there was 1 time I took the wife out and she wanted me to warm it up and we were on streets. Dave ----

So was this looked into same shoes on the same side? Someone trying to follow what the PO did on my truck Yea that Ebrake spring is not right but even the replacements were the same I cut the spring shorter so it would not bind but they don't work all that great. Dave ----

Yep it was me and have pictures to prove it if you want to see. Also 1 if the adjuster cables was missing IIRC it was a mess Dave ----

They should as "whole" parts. You CAN NOT mix-n-match the parts. I believe all the bolt holes for the window parts should line up. Do the doors have the regulators or you have to use yours? I don't know of that part as I used my 81 regulators. I had to replace the vent window assy. and the divider bars because of rot. When I first got into the rebuild I found a set and bought them only 4 years latter finding out about the divider bars and vent window & roll up glass. Skinny on top of the fat one The fat ones are also longer What I was dealing with Dave ----

These small plastic vacuum lines become brittle and can leak or break. These are attached at the ends via a rubber adapter. The whole line(s) can be replaced with the appropriate ID rubber vacuum hose. Use a sharp utility knife or razor blade to gingerly cut through the rubber adapter so the line can come off without breaking the plastic fittings on the solenoids. Do this one line at a time so you do not cross the lines. It will be wise to mark each rubber line so you know what the original color was. Some people use small wire ties of the closest color [i.e. red for pink] wrapped around the appropriate rubber hose, since all the vacuum lines will now be black. Or, take a short piece of the original colored plastic vacuum line and tape it to the replacement rubber vacuum hose. Any vacuum leak will cause idle problems. The cigar works! Thing is I think he is trying to remove the feed back computer & wiring. What started us down this hole was the wires to the solenoids is from the feed back system. If so then he would not need to replace the hoses. I also think but not sure, them solenoids may be open to release vacuum at times but not cause a vacuum leak. My truck being an 81 did not have solenoids but used some kind of switch, that I also did not have, to purge the canisters. What I did was pipe the canisters (2 because I have dual tanks) the way the radiator sticker has it but with out the "switch". I could not adjust my idle as low as it should have been. In checking for a leak I don't know how I tripped on it but I found this piping with out the "switch" caused a vacuum leak. My fix was to take the smallest Holley jet I had and install it in line to restrick the vacuum but still have some to pull the vapors from the canisters. Because I am checking why I am only getting mid 14's MPG I have disconnected the vacuum as I was thinking it may be pulling to much vapors and causing the poor MPG but so far no such luck So just be careful when hooking vacuum to the canisters. Dave ----

Welcome to the forum You are just around the corner from me Angier, 27501. When this virus thing is over there is a bunch of us from another Ford forum that gather for dinner once a month at different places with in the state. Dave ----

How do you have the charcoal canister plumbed? IIRC it should go to solenoid valves that work off the feed back computer. If you removed the valves did you put the hose from the canister to a vacuum source? And yes been there done that Dave ----

My 81 F100 parts truck with factory AC came with the York compressor. I think 82 was the change over year because if toy look up compressors they list both types. Ebay has brackets to change over the York brackets to use the newer type compressor and that would be the best way I think to go if you want to go for the newer type. I say this because I did not have a full York brackets and was lucky a member found brackets for the newer compressor. One reason to change from the York to the newer one is the York is a piston type and shakes bad when working. Both work just as good. Think they say the new type uses less power to run. I can also tell you it is not so easy to install factory AC in a non-factory AC truck don't ask how I know Dave ----

Yes welcome to the group from a fellow 300 six but 4 on the floor or is that 8 on the floor? (I have over drive and can split every gear). What are your plans for the truck and we need to see pictures Dave ----

When I was looking up different compressors is when I saw some had the hose fittings off the back like the one you pictured. They were mostly for after market AC systems IIRC. Also someone pointed out to me a compressor think for a Jeep that had the hose fitting off the back side. The compressor for our truck from the factory had the bolt on hose fittings that were on the side of the compressor. I just had to make sure that the JY compressor had the hose fittings other wise it was for nothing as I did not have them. Dave ----

IIRC I got mine off Ebay. I think I did a search for FORD reflective in white. I cant remember if I seen red reflective now when I was searching for mine as I was only looking for white. What I was thinking of doing if I could not find any on line was buy a set of normal letters and have a local shop copy them in the reflective. I checked with 1 local shop to do them from scratch and install. Good thing they could not take the truck in right then, 2 to 3 weeks was the wait time. I then asked the price and they said just to bring it in the door was $100 then up so I may have been looking at $150 to $200 they said. Again form scratch and they would do everything and I drive out with letters on the gate. I cant remember what I paid for mine, Maybe $50 shipped? Where I think the others were $30 shipped so the reflective is more money. It also came with papers on how to install them using soapy spray water. If you cant find it in red but can in white you might want to reach out to them and see if they can do them in red. I would think once they have the pattern all they would need to do is switch the decal color. Dave ----

I think what needs to be done is define "halogen bulbs". I run halogen headlights in my 81 F100. Its a sealed bulb you can pick up in any auto parts store. And yes it is marked halogen on the glass lens. I also have a relay kit installed and think they work great. Way better than my 02 Durango. The other is a light that has lens type bulb but the light bulb gets installed in the rear of the lens. Some of them are not DOT rated so should not be used on road. Some also have a bad light pattern so don't work that good on helping you see down the road and blind on coming traffic. Dave ----

My 02 Durango turns off the driving lights when the high beams come on that I think is stupid. No one else is around when the high beams come on so whats the big deal? I also have not heard its illegal to run driving / fog lights with high beams. Is then there should be a lot of tickets given out to the rednecks that put them LED light bars on the front of cars & trucks as they do blind on coming traffic. They are also on the EMS trucks down here. Also if it was illegal in some states the lights you can buy and add on like the LED light bars would say something on the box or paper work. Only thing I did see on my K C Lites were not for street use and the only time I used them was in VT late at night on back roads going to a buddies cabin. Other wise the covers were on them. Dave ----

So from the picture that front "bat wing" looks like the same as mine and different than the rear one. It also looks like the slots are in different places. I would think the bat wings would be the same front / rear like mine. Did he get CADS for both of them? Dave ----

Sorry to hear about the cam but it sure looks pretty Dave ----

I added a large cooler after the one in the radiator on my drag car because of the high stall converter that makes a lot of heat. Also the cooler has threaded ends and the only hose is the factory hoses from metal lines, the car came with that are high psi with threaded ends. The factory metal lines run from the trans to a hose into the radiator. I bent up lines that run from the radiator cooler out let to the extra cooler in let. I bent line from the out let of the extra cooler in to the factory hose to the factory metal line back into the trans. Dave ----

I knew you could weld cast and it needed to be heated and that is where the trouble is. I don't have a torch other than MAP gas and no stick welder. With my MIG I could make up something that would use the extra lower spring plates but I need to get a bar before I can even try to make something. Dave ----

Good to hear Brutus is running better than ever. When I hear of others that say a 300 six cant do over 50 MPH with foot to the floor or when it hits a hill slows down to 25 MPH foot to the floor there has to be something vary wrong. Dave ----

Good idea! Nice work, wish I had that equipment when I made mine, Sawz All, Dremal and drill press is what I used. The one with the square hole is for the 300 six motor bracket. That hole is for a breaker bar to help pull the compressor to tighten up the belt. How is it done on the 460 motor? Dave ----

Welcome Matt If it a project you can start it in the "project" area. If its a few questions that is part of a project you could ask in the main area and like it in the project thread if wanted. So if it is a question on the diesel motor could be in the main area and when your start the project link the motor in it. I would guess the question is rebuild what you have in the truck now or remanf.? I would find a shop that can / will take on the diesel and get a price and do the same for the remanf. Good luck. Dave ----